V70 1998 Timing Belt/ Crankshaft Pulley

opgpc0 · Post by **opgpc0** » 13 Mar 2012, 04:18

First posting

Recently purchased my first non 240 after 20 some odd years of the latter. I have done many timing belts on the 240 b230f engine. 125k on this V70 and I am going to replace the Timing belt,water pump,tensioner. My question is,,,I have read where the crankshaft pulley does not have to be removed, and also that is does have to be removed. I am a bit confused.Can anybody give me some direction on this. If it doesnt have to be removed is it a major ache or just a little more of a PITA. Also , how is the removal of the crank nut as far as acessibilty. Pros and cons of both methods would be greatly appreciated.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 13 Mar 2012, 07:52

There is a good write up for doing a TB. I did it without removing the pulley. Just pay attention to how the belt comes off.Some people just cut and pull it through the pulley, but knowing it had to back on in one piece, I practiced by taking it off. Be sure and take off the cover on the bottom. It's hard to explain, but the best way I found to put the belt back on, was to pull it tight with both hands and using your thumbs to navigate it over the piece of metal that is in the way. Like I said, hard to explain. Tight between the hands, worked for me after trying several ways.
Getting the water pump gasket off the engine was harder than the belt was for me.
Shane

fn42 · Post by **fn42** » 13 Mar 2012, 07:59

The crank pulley does not need to be removed but doing so will make it a bit easier

directly underneath the crank sprocket (where the bottom of the timing belt is) there is a metal cylinder (part of the vibration dampener) sticking out, there's maybe 1/2" between the end of this cylinder and the crank pulley. You can work the belt through this 1/2" opening w/o removing anything but if you don't want to spend time doing that I would say removing the vibration dampener is easier than the crank pulley

Post by **rspi** » 13 Mar 2012, 09:00

I have done a few belts on these cars and have never pulled the pulley. It is a tight squeeze to get the belt on at the bottom of the crank and I'm not sure how I managed it but somehow it went on pretty fast and without any problems.

Besides that, it's a bi*&% to get that crank pulley off from what I've read. There are threads dedicated to it.

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Mar 2012, 15:52

I've done several timing belts on these cars, both engine in and out of the car, and never removed the crank pulley. So I can;t really compare but the reason I leave it on is, it seems more work to take it off. And a crux of this job is, you don't want the crank moving off the mark, so I prefer to not touch that fastener on the pulley.

Gubernaculum · Post by **Gubernaculum** » 13 Mar 2012, 18:41

I just did my '00 s70 glt timing belt. Did not remove the vibe dampner or pulley. There was a cover/protector behind the (larger diameter) vibe dampener that prevents splash/rocks from getting all over the (smaller diameter) crank pulley and timing belt, so I had to wiggle the belt out btw this protector and the back side of the vibe dampener. I pulled the old belt out whole and reinstalled it twice to make sure I could do it without damaging the new belt. I had a friend push on the plastic piece down and back to help get it out of the way so I could get the belt stated, and I started working it on from left to right (wheel removed, car on stands). Not too bad.

Be extra extra careful lining up and rechecking the marks. My exhaust side wanted to move on its own and get out of synch with the intake side. It would have been really easy to install it all a tooth off if I wasn't paying attention and rechecking everything.

Mark all 3 gears vs. the block/head (trying to line up timing marks on the flexible plastic cover is stupid design) and mark the old timing belt where the gear marks are with white out before you remove it. I was glad I did bc I was able to count teeth on the belt btw where the two gear marks were supposed to be, and I caught my intake vs exhaust being off by a tooth.

Be safe. Not hard, just be thorough.

VolvoTurbo850 · Post by **VolvoTurbo850** » 18 Mar 2012, 09:40

Firstly, I have done timing belts both by removing and not removing the pulley.

I would suggest you do what you have to do to get by, by not removing it you might need bit more time and frustrating attempts as many of the members suggested. You also have to take a bit more time ensuring that the belt is set properly on the bottom pulley sprocket which is almost impossible to see because of the visual obstruction of the pulley itself. P.S. You should note that when you pull the pulley off, the sprocket stays in place so you do not have to worry about lining the timing marks off as it has nothing to do with the pulley itself, and the pulley itself will line up because of the special insert, so it is fool proof to remove!

I now never do timing belts without removing the pulley, the reason is torque drivers like the one mentioned below. Normally you would have to hold the pulley down and try to lever it manually with socket wrenches. You never see a mechanic do that, as they always have air tools to help them.

P.S. You should note that when you pull the pulley off, the sprocket stays in place so you do not have to worry about lining the timing marks as it has nothing to do with the pulley, and the pulley itself will line up because of the special insert, so it is fool proof to remove!

As a do it DYI mechanic you might not have the budget or the space to have this type of equipment so these units can help fill that gap easily. Besides, no more breaking bolts because i was putting too much leverage on them either and it is amazing how the hammering action on these remove even the most stubborn stuff (try removing with hand tools the hold down bolt for the radiators on these cars without busting the welded down nut in the rad support bracket).

Just to let you know I now have many good shop and air tools but I still land up using my corded and cordless torque guns to do all of my work.

Mine was purchased from Canadian Tire Store which cost me $60 and has about 350 foot pounds of torque. I am sure my US neighbours can find similar products cheaper. I suggest the corded one just because the battery ones are around $200 and many only have 250 foot pounds torque and may not have the staying power as the corded model unless you pay a premium.

These also save you time on the basics like removing tires and also control arm bolts etc. (you just need some extension bits as they are rather large and will not fit in some crevices--- in other words it is a big sucker!.

Maybe it is a great thing to put on your BDAY or Xmas list ?

good luck!

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/fastening-i ... dw292.aspx