Passenger blower fan

pigpete · Post by **pigpete** » 02 Jun 2006, 09:04

My fan blower destroyed itself leaving a few holes in the box. This has been repaired with new fan.

Now the fan stays on full speed even with the ignition off,only when i pull the fuse it turns off.

I have pulled relays in the engine fuse block under the sterring wheel and 1 next to the fan motor itself and what looks like some sort of cooling block in the box and numourous wires and it still stays on. The auto control (driver contols) are dead and i have no control over direction
The ac stays on.
Where is this hard to find resistor pack? Any hint would be a great help.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 18 Jun 2006, 05:03

Did you ever figure this problem out? My brother in law is having a similar problem with the fan staying on all the time.

Post by **billofdurham** » 18 Jun 2006, 11:50

The blower motor resistor is mounted on the outside of the fan housing.

To remove it take out the glove box and work through the aperture. Disconnect the wiring connector, undo the screws and remove the resistor.

Bill.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 19 Jun 2006, 04:38

Is the bad resistor what causes the fan to run all of the time?

utvol1984 · Post by **utvol1984** » 19 Jun 2006, 07:44

If your car is at all like my 93 850GLT, you can't change the fan motor resistor through the glove box. Removing the glove box is helpful to be able to visualize what's back there but you have to remove the trim panel underneath on the passenger side - it's very easy - just three screws and slide in tabs on the bottom side. Then you have to remove the metal knee bolster - which is also easy - just three bolts - two on the right and one on the left. Then you can see everything. The fan motor resistor is to the left of the fan and is held to the white plastic housing with one screw on the lower side. It has four or five long metal fins that insert into a hole in the white plastic area. The white plastic is actually part of the fan duct so cool air blows over the fins keeping the resistor cool - at least that's how it's supposed to work. There's at least one large wiring harness that's fastened right in front of the resistor with plastic ties - you'll have to cut the ties to pull the wires down and out of the way. There's also a small plastic bracket over the resistor that has to come out - two small torx screws and it's out. The fan motor resistor has two plugs on the upper left side, just unplug them, remove the one screw holding the resistor in and the resistor will come right out. If you need a new one I would suggest FCP Groton.

I changed my resistor because the fan wouldn't stay on more than a few seconds and changing the resistor seemed to resolve the problem. I really can't say if changing your resistor will resolve the problem you are having with the fan staying on all the time but the resistor does seem to figure in most of the fan related problems I've read about and experienced with my car so far. It's also not all that expensive so it's certainly worth trying - particularly since you've already changed the fan.

I will qualify this again by saying this is how it works on an early 850GLT. Yours could be different. Even my Haynes manual says you can change the resistor through the glove-box - I don't know why it says that - you just can't do it that way - but fortunately it's still not a hard job - just pop off that trim panel and the knee bolster and you're in business.

Good luck.