Oil Cooler Line

Post by **kickin_it** » 11 Apr 2012, 16:13

After my successful motor rebuild, with thank to this site and the users, I may have located the initial culprit that caused the damage. I have the dreaded oil line cooler line leak at the "crimp" location, where the metal meets the rubber. I should have replaced these when the motor was torn down BUT I didn't so I have to do it now. I have seen every post on this topic but never a concrete answer.

Is it possible to just buy 1/2" Inner Diameter hose, rated for this application, and place the metal fittings into the hose and double clamp the ends with screw-hose clamps or Oekiter clamps? I have seen the post on VolvoSpeed about the revamped hoses for sell and it seems to me this is the process he is using instead of re-crimping the ends. What material are these metal ends made from, aluminum?

Post by **rspi** » 11 Apr 2012, 16:50

Man, I would not chance anything other than OEM hoses, NEW. Just to add another, here are my instructions:
http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyi ... l_line.htm

peacock · Post by **peacock** » 11 Apr 2012, 16:54

Thats a tough call its an expensive job to get done and even harder to do your self. it took my mechanic 3hrs of labor for removal only because they were so rusted. the parts alone are $300

rrochell8 · Post by **rrochell8** » 12 Apr 2012, 11:29

Replaced mine a couple of years ago with the ones Orlando sells over on Volvospeed. No problems and less than hundred bucks!

Post by **kickin_it** » 12 Apr 2012, 13:15

Are his hoses re-crimped or just double clamped? It seems like in the picture that the metal fittings are inserted into the tubing instead of vice-versa. I think I am going to give it a shot with the double clamp on each end and if it fails stop by a hydraulics store and have them slap together some new hoses and crimp it again. Not trying to spend the $300 for OEM hoses when its not worth it.

Post by **JDS60R** » 12 Apr 2012, 13:37

You can do it yourself with some good Gates oil cooler line and some Gates Powergrip SB clamps.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Apr 2012, 14:15

I'm not sure how the lines are supposed to be built but I cut one of them apart that came off of my daughter's S70 to see if they could be spliced. The inside of the hose was very hard and brittle which led me to believe that they couldn't be repaired without changing the actual hose.

I snagged a set of lines off of a salvage car the last time I was at a pick-n-pull. Is this the kind of thing I could take to a tractor repair place to have them change the hoses?

...Lee

Post by **JDS60R** » 12 Apr 2012, 15:11

Yes - If you don't want to do it yourself the local tractor store or hydraulics store can remove and replace the lines and swage.

Post by **kickin_it** » 17 Apr 2012, 21:05

Repaired the oil lines. Pictures coming soon. Cost was about $30.00 took about 2-3 hours of labor with 2 trips to part store. All done in about 6 hours. Looks good, and is holding oil once again.

Post by **kickin_it** » 18 Apr 2012, 01:17

I have successfully repaired my leaking oil cooler lines all for about $25.00. The local parts store wanted about $215 for new Dorman lines. The local hydraulics shop quoted me $140 for new lines with new crimped ends. I decided why not choose DIY and save a few bucks. Here are a few steps and pictures that I gathered through the process. Extremely hard to use camera when my hands, gloves, and arms were constantly covered in leaked oil and grime but I snapped a few. I do need to give thanks and credit to RSPI and his instructions. I also used a powerpoint that I found on this website but cannot locate it to give credit so I will not publish it. I was already pretty familiar with the location of the components after the motor rebuild but it was helpful to have the pictures and to see different approaches to it.

I started by removing the bolt that holds the braces on the lines. I then disconnected the lines from the radiator. Then removed the thermostat from the bottom of the block with the lines attached. Pulled the lines out from underneath and slid the thermostat toward the oil filter and dropped everything right out. I recommend snapping a picture here to see the angles and what not on the lines and how they fit inside the car and thermostat as well as label the metal fittings to ensure they do not get mixed up. I then used the 30 torx bit to remove hoses from thermostat. I used a vice and placed a line in it and just finger tightened. I grabbed the Dremel and went to work on these lines.

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I started cutting very carefully at the blue arrow, the bottom of the line, and I cut toward the red arrow. At the red arrow I would not risk cutting all the way to lip of the fitting. I would leave about 1/16th of an inch and just a large flat head to "pop" the fitting loose. Cut it carefully and you will not hit the fitting on the metal line, there is rubber hose that helps with this giving off smoke and smell when you hit it to let you know you are through the crimp fitting. The green arrow displays this.

Once all crimped fittings were removed I cleaned up all of my metal fittings ensuring nothing foreign remained in the metal tubes. I obtained 4 feet of hydraulic hose (1/2 inch inner diameter) that can withstand the oil pressure and temp from a parts store for about $6 a foot. The job can be completed with just 3 feet. The hose that connects to the bottom of the radiator (left on thermostat) was cut to 15 inches, the hose to the top of the radiator (right on thermostat) to 17 inches. The ends were then placed into the hose and double clamped with hose clamps.

: 2012-04-17_16-40-27_608.jpg (168.77 KiB) Viewed 2772 times

I used screw hose clamps and situated them with one screw on the left side and one on the right side to ensure equal tightness on the ends.

: 2012-04-17_16-40-18_872.jpg (157.81 KiB) Viewed 2772 times

Here are the completed hoses. I threaded the hoses from the bottom of the car up. Then ends were wrapped in plastic to keep foreign objects from entering the lines. I then attached the lines to the thermostat because it was a little easier to reach the 30 torx bolt with a small 1/4 inch socket and small drive. The thermostat was then connected to the motor and the lines back to the right side of the radiator. Started her up and let her run for a good 20 minutes to ensure no leaks were present and ran her around town. Shes in the garage tonight with cardboard underneath it to locate any drops that may occur overnight. Hope this helps. Any questions or comments welcome.