99 V70 XC/AWD Will not start - fuel pump problem?

twncty · Post by **twncty** » 22 Apr 2012, 09:49

Car would not start last night when I was leaving the grocery store and needed to be towed home. Ran fine all day. I checked the fuel rail and it is not getting fuel. When I turn on the ignition I don't think I hear the pump. Although when I turn the ignition off I deffinately hear a noise coming from the area for about 2 seconds.

I changed the fuel filter two years ago. I drive about 30K a year. I am a backyard mechanic with little expereince with the fuel system. Your thoughts would be greatly apprciated.

twncty · Post by **twncty** » 22 Apr 2012, 09:58

I should have noted that when leaving work the car would seem a little doggy when driving the first mile but then would be fine.

twncty · Post by **twncty** » 22 Apr 2012, 11:59

Learned something new today! Neighbor stated that if it is a fuel pump problem if you bank on the gas tank a few time prior to trying to start it the car will start. He was right it started and of course quickly died. Could definately here the whine of the pump which sounded like it was dying. What perplexes me is that looking under the car the gas tank is in front of the rear axels so I am surprised you cannot drop it without removing the entire rear end.

Post by **Pauloil** » 22 Apr 2012, 17:25

possible to access pump by cutting by right pass. door

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=20367

Post by **MoVolvos** » 22 Apr 2012, 17:35

Pauloil wrote:possible to access pump by cutting by right pass. door

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=20367

Looks great but it is a long post so only took a quick glance! Can the pump and was that particular pump removed from that small opening. Keep in mind the dangers of cutting something else or the lines depending on the tool of choice!!!!!

Blessing,
BKM
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twncty · Post by **twncty** » 22 Apr 2012, 18:43

Used a dremel and it was perfect! Now the hard part, removing the fuel lines from the fuel pump. Whoever stated it was a bear is correct! I've been at it all day and no luck. What I am contemplating is cuttting the ends off with a well oiled pipe cutter and using 3/8ths rubber fuel lines. One line is rusted severely at the connector. I don't know how long that one is going to last anyway. I don't know if anyone has ever contemplated doing this. Don't want to drop the tank to run a new line that's for sure!

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 22 Apr 2012, 18:45

Before you jump to any conclusions and go after this job,
you might confirm with a little more time invested in diagnostics.

There are several possibilities for the condition you've described.
Have you checked fuel rail pressure? Is the fuel pump relay good?
Is it possible that the immobilizer antenna ring is getting wonky?
( Do you carry more than one key for this car on the same ring? )
Having any other electrical system problems? Is your ETM happy?

You should be able to get to the power supply leads that feed
the pump from the access port in the floor, behind the back seat.
It's made for the FWD fuel pump, but the wires for the AWD pump
run right through there. Be sure the pump is getting juice.

I'm just sayin', this would be a perfect job to avoid if at all posible!
Be sure!

Post by **renns** » 22 Apr 2012, 19:20

Your location says Preston. Would that be in Cambridge, Ontario? If so, come on out to Ayr, and I'll loan you the fuel line release and tank nut tightening tools I fabricated. They make the job much easier. Here's a pic of Snipercat's removal tool:

Mine's similar. For the tank nut tool, I formed a u-shaped piece of flatbar, notched to match the teeth on the plastic pump ring. A bolt was welded to the middle, to allow easy torquing of the nut on reassembly. I found I needed a proper tool like that to get the tank properly sealed after assembly. Also, lube the tank seal ring with a bit of vaseline prior to assembly. That prevents it from getting twisted up during the tightening process. That trick came from the factory service instructions (VADIS).