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ongoing fun with the v70

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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rspi
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Re: ongoing fun with the v70

Post by rspi »

There is a chance that your alternator is bad. If you got the car started the alternator should have been charging the battery and keeping the car running. Usually when the alternator goes out it will cause the dash to light up like a Christmas tree.

Also, 9 time of 10 the key gets stuck in the ignition because the button on the shifter didm't pop all the way out when you put it in park. Make sure the button on the shifter knob is all the way out, you can pull it with your fingers.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

mwilkerso
Posts: 20
Joined: 31 March 2012
Year and Model: V70 xc 1999
Location: pacific northwest

Post by mwilkerso »

so today we replaced the b+ cable with a solid 6g heavy wire and great terminal connections. Also, we sanded down all of the grounds that we could unbolt and sand down. When following the ground wire from the battery, we discovered one of the grounds were hanging free and there is a bolt broken off where it should have gone into the engine underneath where the throttle is located. So we took that ground and bolted it to the top of the engine. After all of this, we start up the car with the battery charged up to 12v ( this is a new battery that we had to recharge since its been rundown so much), the voltage drops to 10.8. I turn on the lights and rev the car to 2000 rpms. The voltage drops to 10.3 and levels off for about 2 mins. After that, i get an abs light, brake light, then another 15 seconds i get an srs light, then another minute goes by and the voltage drops to 7v and the car dies.

Is this definitely the alternator or should i be looking at something else?

Also, I planned on doing the ABS fix, but Im wondering if I would get ABS symtpoms because of the low voltage?

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Is the battery dead now after this happened?

If so, there's your answer. But yeah, it sounds like it.

You can pull it out and any auto parts store will test it for you.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

Pauloil
Posts: 1038
Joined: 21 March 2006
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Location: davenport, IA

Post by Pauloil »

mwilkerso wrote:so today we replaced the b+ cable with a solid 6g heavy wire and great terminal connections. Also, we sanded down all of the grounds that we could unbolt and sand down. When following the ground wire from the battery, we discovered one of the grounds were hanging free and there is a bolt broken off where it should have gone into the engine underneath where the throttle is located. So we took that ground and bolted it to the top of the engine. After all of this, we start up the car with the battery charged up to 12v ( this is a new battery that we had to recharge since its been rundown so much), the voltage drops to 10.8. I turn on the lights and rev the car to 2000 rpms. The voltage drops to 10.3 and levels off for about 2 mins. After that, i get an abs light, brake light, then another 15 seconds i get an srs light, then another minute goes by and the voltage drops to 7v and the car dies.

Is this definitely the alternator or should i be looking at something else?

Also, I planned on doing the ABS fix, but Im wondering if I would get ABS symtpoms because of the low voltage?
can't check alt. until have good battery. abs could've been from low voltage i'd leave that batt on charger overnight and charge at slow rate. do voltage drop on starter cable or just replace it ipdusa has a good generic one for our car
99 V70XC 158K

95 850glt 188K

mwilkerso
Posts: 20
Joined: 31 March 2012
Year and Model: V70 xc 1999
Location: pacific northwest

Post by mwilkerso »

So i suppose my next step will be replacing the battery-alternator cable and removing the alternator so i can bring it to oreilly and have it tested. Any thoughts on rebuilding vs. Buying rebuilt alternator?

mwilkerso
Posts: 20
Joined: 31 March 2012
Year and Model: V70 xc 1999
Location: pacific northwest

Post by mwilkerso »

so i took my alternator out today and brought it to oreilly for testing. it failed the test and reade 11.6 volts. so now i ask should i rebuild or buy a remanufactured alternator? also, ebay offers reman. alternators for the volvo for around $120...are these trustworthy?? or should i just get a new one from oreilly for 250? i feel comfortable rebuilding but i want the solution with the best results whatever that may be.

thanks,
matt

oldcarfools
Posts: 11
Joined: 7 January 2012
Year and Model: 1998 V70 GLT Wagon
Location: indiana

Post by oldcarfools »

Good Lord, you seem to have the same luck as we have with buying our '98 V70 that obviously had NO maintenance over 155K miles. We paid $3700 and have nearly $2000 into it so far, and it's still up on jacks! Don't know what any of these other owners are so thrilled about constantly fixing their cars. We are getting too old and tired of car repairs! Hope you fare better than us when it's all done! Good Luck!!

Pauloil
Posts: 1038
Joined: 21 March 2006
Year and Model:
Location: davenport, IA

Post by Pauloil »

mwilkerso wrote:so i took my alternator out today and brought it to oreilly for testing. it failed the test and reade 11.6 volts. so now i ask should i rebuild or buy a remanufactured alternator? also, ebay offers reman. alternators for the volvo for around $120...are these trustworthy?? or should i just get a new one from oreilly for 250? i feel comfortable rebuilding but i want the solution with the best results whatever that may be.

thanks,
matt
get the reman. at oreilly for the lifetime warranty, and the new starter cable from ipdusa
99 V70XC 158K

95 850glt 188K

mwilkerso
Posts: 20
Joined: 31 March 2012
Year and Model: V70 xc 1999
Location: pacific northwest

Post by mwilkerso »

I've actually spent quite a bit of time now looking for a supplier of the component parts inside of the alternator based on the bosch and volvo numbers on the alternator itself. I cant seem to find any reliable provider of these parts. If anyone knows where to find the brush holders, bearings, etc. could you let me know? If not I suppose the $250 oreilly part is the solution although Im running myself to the poorhouse here with every new problem the volvo presents.

Thanks again,
Matt

P.S. To the post above with the v70 at 155k miles, what has gone wrong with your volvo so far?

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Got a junkyard around you? That has Volvos?

You can pick up a working alternator for $25 with a $10 core charge at the one by me.

They're actually not something that goes bad too often on these cars. Mine has been putting out low voltage for 3 years/50,000 miles and hasn't died yet.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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