Hi Emil,
If have not done so do a DYI Tranny flush. If the symptoms improve dramatically it is a great sign that the Tranny may still be in good overall shape. Drive it awhile before deciding on how much more or less money you want to spend on the car.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=22557
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=47877
Blessings,
BKM
-
2001 V70 tranny problems
- MoVolvos
- Posts: 5273
- Joined: 15 January 2012
- Year and Model: S&V70XC,S60,C30,XC90
- Location: NC
- Has thanked: 310 times
- Been thanked: 524 times
Re: 2001 V70 tranny problems
Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
-
precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 128 times
Emil to give you an idea of how bad my wife's 2000 V70 (NA with early build AW-55-50SN) was upon purchase, a dealer sold it to me for $860 on eBay because the trans was terrible with 2-3 flares (where the revs increase markedly before going into the next gear then drop about 1 second later when 3rd gear finally engages) this was sometimes smooth and sometimes a huge thump.` The car had a great interior and only minor scrapes on bumper corners. No leaks and a recent timing belt too.
Exactly like yours the problems happened when gearbox was warmed up. After a new B4 servo cover and new fluid I hoped it would adapt quickly. After 1,500 miles there was no change. Then I did a hard driven mountain pass run of around 100 miles with lots of manual shifting and the flare disappeared. 3 months later it's still perfect.
Exactly like yours the problems happened when gearbox was warmed up. After a new B4 servo cover and new fluid I hoped it would adapt quickly. After 1,500 miles there was no change. Then I did a hard driven mountain pass run of around 100 miles with lots of manual shifting and the flare disappeared. 3 months later it's still perfect.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
I think that will be my first phase, B4 servo cover and fluid change/flush (not sure yet if I will do a “flush” or simply drain and fill, couple of time). But the adaptation is what is still foggy to me. Is it in a continues adaptation mode or do you have to start the adaptation sequence? And can you do this without a computer hookup?
Thanks,
Emil
Thanks,
Emil
- MoVolvos
- Posts: 5273
- Joined: 15 January 2012
- Year and Model: S&V70XC,S60,C30,XC90
- Location: NC
- Has thanked: 310 times
- Been thanked: 524 times
It would be best to start with the full Fluid replacement. If that changes it dramatically and maintains that state you know it is predominately a fluid issue. Then proceed to your next phase so you can by process of elimination know which was the major contributor to your Tranny issue. Don't do the B4 Servo with dirty fluid first.Emil wrote:I think that will be my first phase, B4 servo cover and fluid change/flush (not sure yet if I will do a “flush” or simply drain and fill, couple of time). But the adaptation is what is still foggy to me. Is it in a continues adaptation mode or do you have to start the adaptation sequence? And can you do this without a computer hookup?
Thanks,
Emil
Blessings,
BKM
-
Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
-
precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 128 times
Adaptations need to be done with Vida/Dice.
I've read about rowing the gearlever multiple times b/w R, D, & N but I wasn't able to get the tranny into adaptation mode
I've attached the procedure sheet for adaptation. It may be that Volvo has disallowed entering this mode in their TCM programming so Indys and public can't DIY.
I've read about rowing the gearlever multiple times b/w R, D, & N but I wasn't able to get the tranny into adaptation mode
I've attached the procedure sheet for adaptation. It may be that Volvo has disallowed entering this mode in their TCM programming so Indys and public can't DIY.
- Attachments
-
AW55-50 Tech Guide Pg 5.pdf- (31.51 KiB) Downloaded 350 times
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
Short update on I rainy Sunday morning in ND.
Again, many thanks to all of you for your great insights and advice.
I rolled up my sleeves and changed out the servo cover and did 2 drain and refills (shied away from the flush). It went quite well. The old serve cover didn’t appear to be damaged but I put the new one in anyway. Also planning on putting in a magnaflo filter; figured it couldn’t hurt. The fluid was in pretty bad shape so all in all, it was well worth the couple of hours of work. The fact that the plastic engine cover was nowhere to be found made for a quicker work. How important is it to have that cover? Is it worth to try to find on and buy someplace?
Unfortunately, the servo cover and fluid change didn't appear to make any changes to the shifting. So if I am going to keep this car, I probably better consider changing the VB. What is the probability that the VB will make it all good again or if something else has gone bad, and what could that something "else" be? Still feel if I can make the tranny healthy again that I have a nice solid car to run up to 200K or so.
Thanks,
Emil
Again, many thanks to all of you for your great insights and advice.
I rolled up my sleeves and changed out the servo cover and did 2 drain and refills (shied away from the flush). It went quite well. The old serve cover didn’t appear to be damaged but I put the new one in anyway. Also planning on putting in a magnaflo filter; figured it couldn’t hurt. The fluid was in pretty bad shape so all in all, it was well worth the couple of hours of work. The fact that the plastic engine cover was nowhere to be found made for a quicker work. How important is it to have that cover? Is it worth to try to find on and buy someplace?
Unfortunately, the servo cover and fluid change didn't appear to make any changes to the shifting. So if I am going to keep this car, I probably better consider changing the VB. What is the probability that the VB will make it all good again or if something else has gone bad, and what could that something "else" be? Still feel if I can make the tranny healthy again that I have a nice solid car to run up to 200K or so.
Thanks,
Emil
-
JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
I don't know how much fluid you changed but unless you went through an entire case of 12, it's not complete
Next, did you RESET THE ADAPTIONS?
The shift quality will never change until you do that.
and last, even after you do all of this properly, it can take up to 500 miles for everything to adapt properly
(if it will at all)
I wouldn't waste my money on a valvebody with 121K miles, much more will be worn out in the transmission than just the valvebody
Next, did you RESET THE ADAPTIONS?
The shift quality will never change until you do that.
and last, even after you do all of this properly, it can take up to 500 miles for everything to adapt properly
(if it will at all)
I wouldn't waste my money on a valvebody with 121K miles, much more will be worn out in the transmission than just the valvebody
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
-
precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 128 times
Ditto with JRL.
You need to change out the entire 12 quarts AND do adapts.
Hard driving/manual upshifting/downshifting over a 50 mile mountain run did the adapts for us but that was after 5 months and 800 miles so you won't see a change yet.
I would swap out the rest of the fluid and book it in at a dealer or get yourself a Vida/Dice from China and DIY.
Was the spring plate bent? Even a slight bend would upset shifting. My cover fell out in two pieces and was pretty chronic looking.
You need to change out the entire 12 quarts AND do adapts.
Hard driving/manual upshifting/downshifting over a 50 mile mountain run did the adapts for us but that was after 5 months and 800 miles so you won't see a change yet.
I would swap out the rest of the fluid and book it in at a dealer or get yourself a Vida/Dice from China and DIY.
Was the spring plate bent? Even a slight bend would upset shifting. My cover fell out in two pieces and was pretty chronic looking.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
Morning,
Since I only did two simple drains and refill I can only expect to have about 75% fresh fluid. I may drop it one more time after I run it a bit longer. I realize that a "flush" would be a more complete way of changing the fluid but I took the easy route this time.
I could not see any defect on the servo cover so for all I know it may have been changed out before even, although it was the old style (how do I get photos in here?)
I have read somewhat conflicting stories on the adaptation system. From what I can understand, at least from Volvo, is that it is always in an adaptation mode, so to speak. But no, I have not been able to reset it as I don't, yet, have the software/hardware to trigger it, and the next dealer is 5 hours away. Plan on going there though. I am pretty convinced the stop neutral has been disabled. No change in RPM when stopping, no lurch when taking off and no roll back when at an incline. But yes, I think I will drive it some more, taking it to Volvo for resetting and checking for newest programming chances; but no mountains within 12 hours to put her to the real test
Few other questions:
1. Any suggestions on inner tierods? I have often used Moog for US cars (Rock Auto has good prices). The outers look to be recently changed but there is a slight play in the inners.
2. Brake pads rear. Any preference on brand and where to buy for Volvo?
3. I checked the timing belt and it is “NAPA” (not the brand of my preference but...). So I would have to assume it has been changed so I should be ok there. Your thoughts? Hope they changed the water pump too....
4. Would you trust your local Chevy dealer to do a decent wheel alignment job or is there some Volvo "trick" to it?
5. And the missing plastic engine belly cover. Is it a "must have" or is it just going to be a bit more dirt going in there? And if it is a must have, what would a good place to find one?
Thanks again for all the help.
Emil
Since I only did two simple drains and refill I can only expect to have about 75% fresh fluid. I may drop it one more time after I run it a bit longer. I realize that a "flush" would be a more complete way of changing the fluid but I took the easy route this time.
I could not see any defect on the servo cover so for all I know it may have been changed out before even, although it was the old style (how do I get photos in here?)
I have read somewhat conflicting stories on the adaptation system. From what I can understand, at least from Volvo, is that it is always in an adaptation mode, so to speak. But no, I have not been able to reset it as I don't, yet, have the software/hardware to trigger it, and the next dealer is 5 hours away. Plan on going there though. I am pretty convinced the stop neutral has been disabled. No change in RPM when stopping, no lurch when taking off and no roll back when at an incline. But yes, I think I will drive it some more, taking it to Volvo for resetting and checking for newest programming chances; but no mountains within 12 hours to put her to the real test
Few other questions:
1. Any suggestions on inner tierods? I have often used Moog for US cars (Rock Auto has good prices). The outers look to be recently changed but there is a slight play in the inners.
2. Brake pads rear. Any preference on brand and where to buy for Volvo?
3. I checked the timing belt and it is “NAPA” (not the brand of my preference but...). So I would have to assume it has been changed so I should be ok there. Your thoughts? Hope they changed the water pump too....
4. Would you trust your local Chevy dealer to do a decent wheel alignment job or is there some Volvo "trick" to it?
5. And the missing plastic engine belly cover. Is it a "must have" or is it just going to be a bit more dirt going in there? And if it is a must have, what would a good place to find one?
Thanks again for all the help.
Emil
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






