1994 850na won't start either

paulfr · Post by **paulfr** » 10 May 2012, 05:46

Hey mu 850na won't start either!!!!!

The Wife BACKED INTO my 1994 850na w/ her New CRV (how come da wife always gets the new car) She was only going 2-3 mph at impact. Didn't even crack the grill. But now the damn car won't start. My Volvo that is...who cares about her car.

It's an 850na, wagon, manual transmission w/ 250K+ miles. I'm the second owner. Car was well maintained.
Symptoms: engine turns over but doesn't "catch" not even a rumble.
Gas at Schrader Valve,
Battery good (jumped w/ cables as well)
Can hear fuel pump buzz

I have a "spare" 93 850na...that runs/ran
swapped fuel relay ...no help
the spark from the coil was almost not there. There is +12 to the coil but it only sparks intermittently

It got late and I started to get frustrated (lose parts, can't find sockets, time to do something else.
Today I will swap in coil from spare 850.

I've read a bit here and there about Cam Position Sensor (CPS) and am wondering if this may be the problem. I'm not CERTAIN where the CPS is located. Is it on the driver's side rear "corner" of the engine? There is a round item there held in by two Torx bolts at approx 1 & 7 o'clock. I'm suspecting the CPS is behind this but not sure. Are there any precautions about removing this
Once I do have the CPS "in hand" how do I go about checking/testing it? Should I just go ahead and swap w/ the other 850 or can it be tested? I'd rather not cannibalize the other car too much. I keep it for my kids when they come home.

Any insights, experience or wisdom is appreciated.

Paulfr

BTW, the Wife's exact words upon looking at the cars after backing into mine, "Oh I'm so glad I didn't damage anything on my car. It's new"
AAARRRGGGHHH!

Post by **jblackburn** » 10 May 2012, 07:57

There is a round item there held in by two Torx bolts at approx 1 & 7 o'clock. I'm suspecting the CPS is behind this but not sure. Are there any precautions about removing this
Once I do have the CPS "in hand" how do I go about checking/testing it? Should I just go ahead and swap w/ the other 850 or can it be tested? I'd rather not cannibalize the other car too much. I keep it for my kids when they come home.

Yes, that's it, and that's also where I'd start. Either that or the crankshaft position sensor (just above the transmission; follow the other thick black wire down to it, just below the distributor.

Just put the "new" sensor on your car and see if it works - that's how you test it.

I had a Civic back into my Volvo at school. They knocked off part of their bumper - didn't even scratch my car at all. Shouldn't mess with a tank

paulfr · Post by **paulfr** » 10 May 2012, 09:16

Hey thanks to JBlackburn for confirming my guess on CPS location.

Update: Using the diagnostic codes available on this site and I believe this site has The Only Compltete Set of Diagnostic Codes. Other Volvo sites have the A2 codes which are helpful if it's a fuel related problem but (as in my case) having the complete set is invaluable. Thanks to Matthew and everyone else maintaining this site!

So using the codes for A6 ignition related diagnostics I ret a 314 & 214 error codes. 314 is CPS signal missing or faulty. 214 is RPM signal missing. I guess that CPS is bad (314) and is impacting 214 code. I'm gonna swap the CPS from the spare and see what happens.

Crankshaft position sensor being below the distributor is in "I can't get to it" Hell. I'm hoping it's the CPS as my hands are too big for it and I ain't that big.

Thanks again, i'll post the results

Paulfr

Post by **m491** » 10 May 2012, 09:33

I just did the same repair on my son's 94 850 NA manual. My wife just got a new CRV and thank God she didn't back into the 850 with it:)

Anyway the worst part of the cam sensor replacement in my opinion is the square metal bracket on the electrical connector end of the cam sensor. It took me a while to sort that out but it should slide out towards the driver's side. I used a small straight screw driver and you can see two open holes on the metal bracket. Use the screw driver to back out towards the driver's side and the entire metal bracket will separate into two pieces. one will stay with the sensor (and can fall off into the engine so be careful) the other stays on the fixed end of the electrical connector. The actual connector is the normal spring loaded type that you need to push in to release.

I didn't pull the airbox on my car as there seemed to be enough room in there to get the cam sensor off. If the replacement doesn't have the same depth or the lack of a black cap, no worries, it should be fine.

Good luck getting the car back on the road.