My '98 S90's a/c after running for approximately 40 minutes at a designated temperature starts blowing back hot air as a result of the compressor stopping. If I wait awhile and restart the a/c it will blow cold air. However, if I max out the temperature to 64 degrees it blows cold air without any interuption. Could it be a switch or a sensor that's mal-functioning?
Second issue is under load (acceleration) the a/c will almost cease working until I level off with the accelerator pedal. Is this "normal".
TIA,
Ernie
S90 a/c woes
- billofdurham
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Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
I'll deal with issue two first - yes it is normal on the 960/S90. It is to ensure that the A/C does not rob the engine of power when it is needed. A/C uses some 7-12 bhp when the compressor is driven.
The S90 A/C system has a self diagnostic capability. A fault in the system is indicated by the AC OFF button flashing. Does this happen on yours?
Bill.
I'll deal with issue two first - yes it is normal on the 960/S90. It is to ensure that the A/C does not rob the engine of power when it is needed. A/C uses some 7-12 bhp when the compressor is driven.
The S90 A/C system has a self diagnostic capability. A fault in the system is indicated by the AC OFF button flashing. Does this happen on yours?
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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jimmy57
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Those cars can suffer from the clutch gap issue. Running it on full blast with the automatically selected high fan can work the system hard enough so that it does not cycle compressor and give the clutch its opportunity to fail to engage. In Phoenix with 90'd daytime temps the compressor won't cycle too much anyway.
You can verify this but be careful. You run it until it stops in the settings where it has been failing. When it stops leave engine running w/o touching controls. Use a wooden broom handle and at # o'clock on the compressor clutch plate, approx 3/4 inch in from the belt pulley edge on the front of the car face, tap the clutch plate. If it clicks in and start operating and resumes cooling then the clutch wear has created a large enough gap for the magnet winding to not be strong enough to pull it in.
When clutch wiring cools the magnet gets a bit stronger and it is able to pull that plate in again until it gets hot.
You can verify this but be careful. You run it until it stops in the settings where it has been failing. When it stops leave engine running w/o touching controls. Use a wooden broom handle and at # o'clock on the compressor clutch plate, approx 3/4 inch in from the belt pulley edge on the front of the car face, tap the clutch plate. If it clicks in and start operating and resumes cooling then the clutch wear has created a large enough gap for the magnet winding to not be strong enough to pull it in.
When clutch wiring cools the magnet gets a bit stronger and it is able to pull that plate in again until it gets hot.
Bill & Jimmy,
Thanks! I'll check and get back to both of you.
Also, approx 2 years ago I had my system charged as the system was doing the exact same things described. So, last weekend I bought a DIY a/c can of Freon 134a with a gauge and emptied a 20 oz can into the system. However, it's the same; nothing has changed.
Should I have my system evacuated (maybe air inside) and recharged? Could it be that this is the culprit?
TIA,
Ernie
1998 S90
1966 1800S
Thanks! I'll check and get back to both of you.
Also, approx 2 years ago I had my system charged as the system was doing the exact same things described. So, last weekend I bought a DIY a/c can of Freon 134a with a gauge and emptied a 20 oz can into the system. However, it's the same; nothing has changed.
Should I have my system evacuated (maybe air inside) and recharged? Could it be that this is the culprit?
TIA,
Ernie
1998 S90
1966 1800S
Ernie Shack
AZ VSA Chapter President
'66 1800S, '96 850 Platinum Turbo Sedan, '98 S90
AZ VSA Chapter President
'66 1800S, '96 850 Platinum Turbo Sedan, '98 S90
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jimmy57
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The a/c loss of dash vent airflow is going to be a leaking diaphragm unit. Either floor/defrost diaphragm or the recirculate diaphragm. These two on that car are suction to extend instead of suction to retract. Extend type have a seal on the rod that extends and the vacuum is sealed by that seal. When the seal cracks then it leaks and when accelerating the source of vacuum, the intake manifold, no longer has vacuum and the door allowing air to the vents closes and it diverts to defrost outlets.
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