transmission problems

[yevgeniy]

UPDATE: ---- New fluid went in - all is well,lower torque mount is still responsible for a bit of harshness, but seems to shift well, smooth, quick, the car is a lot more responsive than before - HAPPY!!!!!



Hope this helps someone )

yevgeniy,

What kind of fluid did you ultimately end up using?

Thanks

VBGAT BG Auto Transmission Fluid. This was done at the Volvo Dealership, this was the fluid that they said was recommended by the Volvo. This fluid at the dealership was only 7$ per quart., and the whole job costed 170$

[yevgeniy]

Adaptations? You don't mention that they were done or otherwise after the B4 servo cover replacement. Could be the trans has adapted and most of the results are because of this. Our upper torque mount is/was torn and still not replaced.

In our 2000 V70 na it took a 100 mile drive of mountainous hard manual shifting to clear the cobwebs and this readapted the TCM(after the car had already done 1,500 miles with no improvement) It now shifts perfectly. As with your case dealer had quoted $4,500 to replace. The TCM was updated at the dealer as a first measure with no success but this only got rid of the false neutral.

My car already had all the latest updates on it, no adaptations have been done to the car at all, The problem with hard shifts were my torque mounts. I would suggest you to replace yours, mine also looked worn, once i took it off - it simply fell apart. The Lower torque mount didn't look that bad either, yet there was still harshness on downshifts, once that was replaced it was all gone.

I also had insane shift flares around 3rd gear 2-->3 ; 3--->4 between 1000 and 2000 rpm, then got better as progress went, that was dealt with by new/correct fluid.

Fluid that was taken out by dealer was so dirty that dealer said it looked like nobody has ever changed it, imagine the look on the guys face when i told him that that fluid was only 600 miles old

P.S. at IPD upper torque mount was only 44$, lower was 38$, both are very easy to install, about 15 min each, and it made a world of difference, usually when the top one has cracks on it - it is gone, and that means that lower is gone too, replace both - the improvements are dramatic. the car has that get-up-and-go kind of attitude when they are replaced. immideate power delivery -etc ( maybe just feels that way )

[2004C70CA]

Wonder if anyone can chime in with some info. 2004 C70, 197,500 miles (75% are highway miles). Tranny fluid never changed. Yep replaced the upper torque mount a couple of time. Did help the harsh down shifts. Went to after market model with better longevity then OEM.

Now here's the problem. Getting trans flare with 3rd gear upshift. Seems to happen more when tranny is hot. Less when shifting at around 40 MPH and 3000 +/- RPM. Servo cap replaced, tranny resync per recommendation. Old cap was good but replaced it since I had the new and old was out. Still flaring.

Now here's the question. Had the radiator replaced at 169,000. It appears that when the fill the fluid for what was lost with the new radiator that they may have over filled it. At cold it is at appears to be at the hot level. Was able to determine that after I finally found the dip stick. Could an over filled tranny cause the flaring? Also with this many miles would there be any harm in doing just a drain and fill (to corrected level of course) or could it help?

Any help would be great appreciated. Love the car and not wanting to let it go.

[MoVolvos]

Wonder if anyone can chime in with some info. 2004 C70, 197,500 miles (75% are highway miles). Tranny fluid never changed.

Do a drain and fill and bring the fluid back to its correct level. If the flare is lessoned or gone you should go ahead and do a DYI Transmission Flush.

Blessings,
BKM
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[Rocky]

Glad you got all those wrong spec ATF fluids out.

[2004C70CA]

Have you experienced this issue before. All I've discovered is start with drain and fill, before any flush. The more I read the more it makes sense. Thanks for the input. Getting ready to give it a try. Dealer looked at the latest programming and there isn't a later upgrade. I'll let you know how it goes.

[MoVolvos]

Have you experienced this issue before.

On other makes and did 3 Flushes and 1 D/F this year. 2000-01-02 Odyssey plus my 98 T5. Here is the long of it!

(That is not me )

Swepco used 10 Quarts Flush: The 2000 recovered from the Flares/Kicking/Bucking after the Flush and other repairs. A slight Flare did come back later but can be avoided by adjusting the driving style. This friend let it go too long and kept resetting the TCS and CEL for over 1 year and with 180K now on the OE Trans does not want to pay for new Trans.

http://www.xayberoptix.com/fix_code_p0740.html
http://www.xayberoptix.com/images/code_ ... lenoid.jpg
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/herrhaus/V ... on_Fix.pdf

Swepco used 4 Quarts D/F: 2001 was just a D/F as it had a Trans replacement with no problems. I only had 1 Gallon of Swepco left so just use it boost the quality of the clean fluid.

Honda used OE 12 Quarts Flush: The 2002 with 220K or so just started Flaring/Kicking/Bucking on the OE Trans. Did a D/F and the problem only occurred after getting Hot (commute traffic) so I knew it was related to Fluid Quality. At $8.00 Quart for Honda OE Fluid I did not want to Flush and still wind up with a bad transmission. Flushed after seeing improvements with the D/F and now his problem is gone.

Swepco used 13 Quart Flush: My 98 S70 T5 had dark brown silvery/slurry Fluid and the car was a little sluggish with very hint of rough shift if I remember correctly. Did initial 3 Quarts D/F with Walmart Fluid and then began the 10 Quarts Swepco Flush. The car was much, much smoother, quieter and drove faster. Several weeks ago I discovered I think reading Jblackburn here that the fluid was supposed to be check with the car running as the Honda's are with engine off. I put in another quart of Fluid to top off and you can tell the difference even though it did not have any issues. Bought an Owner's Manual last month and didn't read it .

Swepcp is what I usually use. This has been a proven product in these friends vehicles. Friend with Ferrai told me about it: Porsche, Ferrari, Viper, Nissan, Toyota, Benz, Plymouth, Dodge, Honda, Mazda and Volvo. 20W is the correct one for use and I believe Independent Volvo uses it as he uses quite a few other Swepco Products. I get Motor and Trans oil by the case directly from the Local Rep but pick up ones or twos of other items from Independent if I need it.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/independent-vol ... lnut-creek

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/sho ... o_pg10.htm

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/sho ... detail.htm

Blessings,
BKM
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https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view

Swepco Trans Fluid Run at Lower Temp compared to Standard Trans Fluids
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view
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[yevgeniy]

Wonder if anyone can chime in with some info. 2004 C70, 197,500 miles (75% are highway miles). Tranny fluid never changed. Yep replaced the upper torque mount a couple of time. Did help the harsh down shifts. Went to after market model with better longevity then OEM. Any help would be great appreciated. Love the car and not wanting to let it go.

Ok, Change fluid ASAP. i would recommend Sea Foam Trans Tune additive, half bottle 300 mile before flush,

My Flares came back a while ago (about 200-300 revs), put in half bottle of that stuff, on first drive it felt worse than ever, now it keeps progressively getting better as i drive.

Flares are caused by metal shavings being collected at your solenoids/valvebody, which effectively makes their movements a lot slower than they should be, that kind of puts your car in neutral for a split second or more - thus you get flares as you keep your foot on the gas pedal expecting a smooth shift.

Never check fluid level on cold transmission, when they say "cold" on the dipstick. they mean, -car running - and gear leaver has been placed in all of the gears for at least 3 seconds, but AT has not been driven enough to warm up to operating temperature.

again make sure you do those steps, and keep the car running while checking fluid level.

[yevgeniy]

Have you experienced this issue before. All I've discovered is start with drain and fill, before any flush. The more I read the more it makes sense. Thanks for the input. Getting ready to give it a try. Dealer looked at the latest programming and there isn't a later upgrade. I'll let you know how it goes.

thing is flush on higher milage is risky as gunk can be dislodged, and get caught where it absolutely can not be. in my case it was either replace tranny or try flush.

[jenkinskg]

Did full flush brought my 04 c70 from undriveable to small flair as I stopped.
Then drove for a few weeks and learned. The issue is the solenoids get dirty and dirt gets trapped ad substandard bushings hold dirt and make smooth operation immpossible. Good rebuilders use new aftermarket solenoids. I found whole valve body on ebay, but ended up being local company that sells tested rebuild units, like new. Paid $650, spend half day dropping subframe, then car has been like new, eversince.
Could have just swapped solenoids, but it is my daily driver, so I did not want to take a chance that adjustments or something else was wrong.

Car drives like new hot or cold now!
For future longevity I added external filter and trans cooler in front or radiator.