1994 940 issues

[jericl2010]

I just removed the oil cap and it looks like gas is pooled up in there and it smells like gas too. Is this normal?
Thanks.

[billofdurham]

Definitely not normal. Are you sure what you can see, not smell, is fuel? After the problems you have had starting the engine I would expect some fuel in the oil to give the smell but I wouldn't expect to see it pooled in the top of the engine. Fuel in the engine oil can cause all sorts of problems with starting and running.

Bill.

[jericl2010]

I'm not 100% positive. It smells like fuel. Not sure if it is, though. I'm getting desperate. I'm not sure what to do at this point. What I don't want to do is pay someone that just wants to start replacing parts. I have to work this afternoon so I will get back to it this evening.

[jericl2010]

If it turns out to be fuel... how would fuel get it? What path would it have taken?

[Zdadgeezer]

My wife had the same issue a few months back. Drove to the grocery, came out it started she moved back a few feet and it quit, then nothing. It cranked but did not catch. Had it towed to a facility for service( it was a Saturday night). I went there Sunday because I couldn't let it go I had a spare coil for testing which I just swapped out before trying to start. Lo and behold it fired right up ran for a minute then quit. Put old coil back in and nothing so I thought I had my fix, but when I put my test coil back in same thing; wouldn't catch.
The mech at this facility told me it would be around $800 to $900 and a week wait for the part for the repair. There is a back story to this but I won't go into it.
In any event the facility ended up towing my car to another garage and the same day without even putting it inside they had my car running. Ignition module is what it says and $240 bucks is what it cost me to fix total. When I was doing my investigations into what it could be it pointed me to a module that cost anywhere from $800 to $900 on the sites.
I know it's lengthy and I apologize, just a little more background and I'm done.
For at least a year leading up to the failure the car would get a service engine light and throw a 221 or 223 I can't remember which right now but it was the coolant sensor code. I replaced the sensor and it worked a few months trouble free then started throwing the code again, In cold weather it was also very rough when it started chugging until it smoothed out after about a minute sometimes longer.
Since the shop repair it has been running excellent I believe that was last fall Sept. Oct.
No complaints but sometimes I think I just missed a loose ground somewhere still $240 is better than $900.

[jericl2010]

Thanks for the info.

Where is the ignition module located on the car? I can't find anything by that name in my manual.

I'm glad you got your car going again. I have a 2-2-4 error code that I can't clear. I tested the resistance of the ETC and it is within specs so I'm not sure why I have the code and I have no idea why I can't clear it either.

Thanks.

[Zdadgeezer]

Found the invoice for the service.
The part replaced as listed was
LX605 Power Amplifier.
As opposed to the ECM which the other guy was talking about for about $900 plus labor.

My bad for calling it ignition module can't keep this stuff straight in my head anymore between cars. Do not know what the Volvo folks call it.
Just looked at the amended 940 code PDF and it's called ignition control module(go figure).
I googled it and it comes up as an Ignition control module running anywhere from 90 to 277 dollars on frugal mechanic. Also came up as the same thing used in Porsche. Although it did not query me for make model year specific.
So I figure the guys made some money or that's close to what they paid.
It also says they retrieved the trouble codes from the ECM using MODIS.
An hour and a half labor.
I didn't have a lot of options being stuck in parking lot.
My best guess is if I had checked codes at that time it would have flashed 131.
Doing the ignition DTM2 I would have gotten 141 and using the amended codes key may have isolated to the ignition control module. At least in a perfect world.
Also when I have to pull a connector or plug I always use the RID OX. Used it on the injector connectors, ECT and others gets rid of the oxidation and preserves a good connection. Pricey but to me worth it. Actually works.
This is the picture(of the module) from the frugal mechanic website. I located it on the driver side forward of the ABS and OBD just above the battery.

[jericl2010]

Nice. Thanks for the info. When I check my codes all I get is the coolant temp sensor code. I put the the little pin in number 6 and it gives me the code and each time i press the main button I get the same code. I tried to clear it but it will not clear. I thought since the previous owner replaces the radiator and the CTS that the code was just never cleared. I don't know. It's a pain in the butt. I took it to local parts store tonight to have it tested. They tested it, but didn't know what the test was telling them. No help whatsoever over there. On the OBD test the other holes give me 1-1-1's.

Can the coolant temp sensor keep my car from starting?

I want to be sure of the problem before I begin pouring money into it.

Thanks.

[jericl2010]

Funny thing...

I also have a 92 240. It uses the same ignition module. I put it in and still nothing. I have power at coil, but no spark there. No spark to plugs. Is there another way to test for power out of the coil so that I can be sure there is no power out and not some other thing causing the issue. I also found some oil around the distributor body. I'm guessing a seal.

Any other ideas about my no start, no spark 940?

Thanks.

[jericl2010]

Hi all,

I figured I would update this. My car sat for a long time due to school. Yesterday I went out to play with it some more and decided to check the crank sensor for continuity. I had juice so I plugged it back together. For some reason I decided to try to start it and it started right up. So the problem... a bad connection at the electrical junction of the crank position sensor. I cleaned it up a bit after I turned it off and it's back to running like a dream. Not sure about the coolant sensor but I replaced it to no avail a couple weeks ago. I can's seem to clear the code on that. One more thing I guess.
Thanks for all the help.