Does 'Restore' loosen piston rings?
ref 99 s80-t6 puking oil out of dipstick pipe even after PCV system service/replacement...
Does 'Restore' loosen piston rings?
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dcarlson12
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jimmy57
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There are a few things you can do to free stuck rings. One is to get engine warmed up and then shut it off and immediately remove plugs and pour in 3 ounces /100ml of auto trans fluid in each hole and let it sit. The longer the better as it may take it a bit to seep in and dissolve the coked oil. Things you put in motor oil are going to be much slower to get results.
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dcarlson12
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Thks jimmy57;
Can one let it sit for several hours and can one then install the plugs and start the engine without worry of a hydraulic lock or whatever it is called? Or should one turn over the engine with the plugs out. Is it necessary to drain the oil immediately after or ?
I have heard of actually pouring some automatic transmission fluid right into the oil sump because of it's high detergent content. Would this be helpful or hazardous?
Appreciate your patience in answering all questions posed!
Can one let it sit for several hours and can one then install the plugs and start the engine without worry of a hydraulic lock or whatever it is called? Or should one turn over the engine with the plugs out. Is it necessary to drain the oil immediately after or ?
I have heard of actually pouring some automatic transmission fluid right into the oil sump because of it's high detergent content. Would this be helpful or hazardous?
Appreciate your patience in answering all questions posed!
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Dirtbag454
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- Year and Model: S-80 2000, C70 2004
- Location: United States
I've used ATF to loosen sticky hydraulic lifters (pour it in the sump), but never left it in the engine for more than 100 miles of driving. The ATF loosens EVERYTHING else as well, so an oil change is immediately necessary. I'm about to try the "Restore" treatment on the '00 S80, just to clean the crud out of the motor. I'll be following this thread with great interest.
'04 C70 Ragtop (103K)
'00 S80 T-6 (donated @ 140K)
'95 850 (traded @ 120k)
'83 240DL (crashed @ 303k)
And then there's the '70 240Z and the '58 Chevy Apache, not to mention the motorcycles...
2013 BMW K1600GTL
'00 S80 T-6 (donated @ 140K)
'95 850 (traded @ 120k)
'83 240DL (crashed @ 303k)
And then there's the '70 240Z and the '58 Chevy Apache, not to mention the motorcycles...
2013 BMW K1600GTL
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jimmy57
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I guess I did leave some pieces out. Yes, before you install plugs place rags over the holes and crank it over.
It would be a good idea to change the oil but the amount of ATF is little enough that it can stay in a while (100-200 miles) and then drain and you may end up with a cleaner engine.
It would be a good idea to change the oil but the amount of ATF is little enough that it can stay in a while (100-200 miles) and then drain and you may end up with a cleaner engine.
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dcarlson12
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Dirtbag454,
Do you have any problems with compression or the oil puking syndrome? I haven't done the compression test yet and will do a leak down test if the compression test shows something. I guess the leak down test shows most but it is much more work and slower to do that the leak down so, being the lazy person that I am, I am going the lazy route first.
When you put the auto trans fluid in the sump, how much did you put in as a fraction of the normal sump capacity?
Do you have any problems with compression or the oil puking syndrome? I haven't done the compression test yet and will do a leak down test if the compression test shows something. I guess the leak down test shows most but it is much more work and slower to do that the leak down so, being the lazy person that I am, I am going the lazy route first.
When you put the auto trans fluid in the sump, how much did you put in as a fraction of the normal sump capacity?
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dcarlson12
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Partial update:
I did a compression test this morning with following results:
#1 150 psi
#2 145
#3 145
#4 146
#5 150
#6 151
Was using a Harbour Fright compression tester so who knows how accurate the gauge is but it at least showed relative values.
My VADIS seems to indicate that the compression is supposed to 1.3-1.5 Mpa which translates to approx. 189 to 218 psi so maybe I am rather low?
I have poured 100 ml of tranny fluid into each cylinder and will let it soak for 3 hours.
My gut feeling is that there will not be much change in compression but we will see...
One thing I notice when taking the turbo lines/air inlet lines off to access the spark plugs was that a small vacuum hose was disconnected/hanging loose. It was down stream from the MAF and the larger vacuum hose which is on the bottom of the main air supply plastic 'hose'. I haven't had any issues with performance and no CEL so whatever that item is, it doesn't seem to affect things too badly. I doubt that it has anything to do with the puking oil problem. Or ????
When I drove to work this morning (I did the work here at my work place), I had installed a plastic bag over the dipstick and dipstick pipe and retained it with several rubber bands (the idea being to catch some or all of any oil which might get burped up thru the dipstick pipe). I drove normally on the highway with the rpm's never exceeding approx. 2500 rpm and no oil burped into the plastic bag/out of the dipstick.
I don't really understand how the PCV system is supposed to work on the S80-T6.
I see the banjo bolt on the underside of the intake manifold is supposed to provide some vacuum to suck fumes into the engine but the large 'vacuum' line is connected to the turbo intake lines. Is the little one on the inlet manifold supposed to be a small back up line or ????
I sucked on the fitting which connects the large vacuum line to the turbo inlet so it didn't appear to be plugged or restricted. And there was very little in any oil on the metal turbo inlet line.
If the dealer's mechanic did not use a brush to clean the bottom or is it supposed the top line of the PCV/oil trap canister port(s) on the engine, would that cause the PCV/oil trap to not function properly?
I did a compression test this morning with following results:
#1 150 psi
#2 145
#3 145
#4 146
#5 150
#6 151
Was using a Harbour Fright compression tester so who knows how accurate the gauge is but it at least showed relative values.
My VADIS seems to indicate that the compression is supposed to 1.3-1.5 Mpa which translates to approx. 189 to 218 psi so maybe I am rather low?
I have poured 100 ml of tranny fluid into each cylinder and will let it soak for 3 hours.
My gut feeling is that there will not be much change in compression but we will see...
One thing I notice when taking the turbo lines/air inlet lines off to access the spark plugs was that a small vacuum hose was disconnected/hanging loose. It was down stream from the MAF and the larger vacuum hose which is on the bottom of the main air supply plastic 'hose'. I haven't had any issues with performance and no CEL so whatever that item is, it doesn't seem to affect things too badly. I doubt that it has anything to do with the puking oil problem. Or ????
When I drove to work this morning (I did the work here at my work place), I had installed a plastic bag over the dipstick and dipstick pipe and retained it with several rubber bands (the idea being to catch some or all of any oil which might get burped up thru the dipstick pipe). I drove normally on the highway with the rpm's never exceeding approx. 2500 rpm and no oil burped into the plastic bag/out of the dipstick.
I don't really understand how the PCV system is supposed to work on the S80-T6.
I see the banjo bolt on the underside of the intake manifold is supposed to provide some vacuum to suck fumes into the engine but the large 'vacuum' line is connected to the turbo intake lines. Is the little one on the inlet manifold supposed to be a small back up line or ????
I sucked on the fitting which connects the large vacuum line to the turbo inlet so it didn't appear to be plugged or restricted. And there was very little in any oil on the metal turbo inlet line.
If the dealer's mechanic did not use a brush to clean the bottom or is it supposed the top line of the PCV/oil trap canister port(s) on the engine, would that cause the PCV/oil trap to not function properly?
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dcarlson12
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- Year and Model: 1997 850 T5
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bump?
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JDS60R
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It will still pump out oil vapor if:
If Blow by is beyond the capacity of the box (rings/ valve stem seals)
if the vacuum tubes used to suck the oil vapor into the intake manifold are clogged or disconnected
If the system is not sealed ( at the oil cap, dipstick, throttle body tube or seals) then a vacuum can not be pulled and it will continue to blow.
If Blow by is beyond the capacity of the box (rings/ valve stem seals)
if the vacuum tubes used to suck the oil vapor into the intake manifold are clogged or disconnected
If the system is not sealed ( at the oil cap, dipstick, throttle body tube or seals) then a vacuum can not be pulled and it will continue to blow.
Retired
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dcarlson12
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To JDS60R:
Don't you mean 'not' for all the three items? i.e. it will pull a vacuum if blow by isn't too much, if pipes are not clogged and if all seals are sealing properly?
I could replace the 'o'ring on the dipstick which I know is dry and doesn't maintain much of a seal but I thought it was best that I leave it the way it is. My reasoning was that it would allow the dipstick to act a a relief valve. But perhaps that is bad reasoning. i.e. perhaps it is best to maintain a strong accumulated amount of vacuum in the crankcase for situations such as during hard acceleration when more gases leak by the piston rings?
Edit:
Well I did the tranny fluid in the cylinders routine and let it soak 3 hours.
Unfortunately when I went to start it up, it would hardly run. Blew lots of white smoke which was the tranny fluid burning off.
But got the CEL flashing and it was missing on multiple cylinders.
When I unbuttoned her again, and checked the DTCs, it confirmed misfires on 3,4 and 6 cylinders. When I checked the coils all three were dead as confirmed by putting a good coil from #2 cylinder in their place and getting spark.
When I did the compression test, I removed the fuse for the fuel pump. Should I have removed some other fuse? i.e. what did I do that would cause three of the coils to fail?
PS also did a compression test after the unbuttoning. values were maybe 5 psi higher on some of the cylinders....
Don't you mean 'not' for all the three items? i.e. it will pull a vacuum if blow by isn't too much, if pipes are not clogged and if all seals are sealing properly?
I could replace the 'o'ring on the dipstick which I know is dry and doesn't maintain much of a seal but I thought it was best that I leave it the way it is. My reasoning was that it would allow the dipstick to act a a relief valve. But perhaps that is bad reasoning. i.e. perhaps it is best to maintain a strong accumulated amount of vacuum in the crankcase for situations such as during hard acceleration when more gases leak by the piston rings?
Edit:
Well I did the tranny fluid in the cylinders routine and let it soak 3 hours.
Unfortunately when I went to start it up, it would hardly run. Blew lots of white smoke which was the tranny fluid burning off.
But got the CEL flashing and it was missing on multiple cylinders.
When I unbuttoned her again, and checked the DTCs, it confirmed misfires on 3,4 and 6 cylinders. When I checked the coils all three were dead as confirmed by putting a good coil from #2 cylinder in their place and getting spark.
When I did the compression test, I removed the fuse for the fuel pump. Should I have removed some other fuse? i.e. what did I do that would cause three of the coils to fail?
PS also did a compression test after the unbuttoning. values were maybe 5 psi higher on some of the cylinders....
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