Control arm bushing replacement

Dirtbag454 · Post by **Dirtbag454** » 02 Jun 2012, 23:11

This car has become a can of worms within a can of worms. I started to simply ("simply"? Ha!) fix a coolant leak @ the heater core and where the outlet line meets the engine. That has escalated to a timing and serpentine belt change, thermostat and water pump change (might as well, we're balls deep by now) ball joint change, c/v joint boot change, right motor mount and now, add control arm bushings. I spend my time tinkering with cleaning disassembled parts, and disassembling sub assemblies while waiting for my parts order to arrive. The problem with this whole process is I ALWAYS discover "something else" that needs attention, usually buried deep inside an assembly, which means that I have to order parts and correct the new problem before I can reassemble to correct the original problem. Eventually, I will bore my way into the exact center of the car, and then I will be able to work my way back to the surface, and completion.
OK, enough complaining. (this is actually kind of fun, in a sick, greasy expensive kind of way).
How do I remove the axle shafts,and how difficult is it to press out and back the control arm bushings? I read somewhere on this forum that the control arm has to be in it's neutral (loaded) position before torquing the fasteners. I suppose it is important to press the front bushing in so the center is neutral when the control arm is level. Any suggestions on the care and feeding of these bushings, plus any Volvo "secrets" regarding reassembly would be greatly appreciated.
And don't forget those axle shafts. The outboard end is separated from the hub on both sides (I just finished fitting up the new ball joints, but cannot reassemble the struts and spindles until I replace those torn boots. See what I mean? Oh yeah, and those bushings!) It never ends...I forgot to order a intake manifold gasket so I could service the oil trap as well...crap! another delay...

Post by **steve850** » 02 Jun 2012, 23:33

Just change the control arms, no? A lot of work to haul out the bushings and press new ones in...

Dirtbag454 · Post by **Dirtbag454** » 03 Jun 2012, 00:27

I considered the entire assembly, but the cost difference is substantial. $75.00+ for the parts for both sides, or $175.00 for just one control arm. I'm retired, so the time to complete the job isn't too big a consideration. I just have to have all these projects completed by June 27th because the S80 will be my transportation to Infineon Raceway for a NASCAR race. Infineon is one of a few tracks where the NASCAR guys have to turn in both directions, so it is always an interesting race.
Anyhow, the most difficult part of any of these jobs is usually figuring out how you're going to do it without buying a whole bunch of expensive tools that you will use only once. I have a press, so the hard part will be rounding up all my large deep sockets to select one that will push the old bushings out, and how to support the odd shape of the control arm to push the new bush in.
And don't forget fellow Volvo fanatics, I'm still at a loss for the procedure to remove the axles from the trans.

Post by **dcarlson12** » 03 Jun 2012, 01:28

Do you have VADIS? If not, would you like me to upload the 'factory' procedure(s) from my copy?

Post by **MoVolvos** » 03 Jun 2012, 01:37

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This maybe helpful. Hope this does not Post twice as the first time did not work it seemed.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=23405

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **yuckuJackD** » 03 Jun 2012, 01:46

Here you are:

Bushing control arm, replacing.pdf: (568.97 KiB) Downloaded 1530 times

GOOD LUCK

Post by **steve850** » 03 Jun 2012, 14:18

I don't have the axle procedure for your car, unfortunately.
I know everyone encourages orginal Volvo for a lot of parts, but here in Montreal, the Land of the Perpetual Pothole, suspension bushings and link kits only last a couple of years anyway, so I just put in aftermarket parts, and do the whole control arm - but I do see your point; if I was better equipes and had a tad more time I would do exactly the same thing as you. Enjoy!

Dirtbag454 · Post by **Dirtbag454** » 03 Jun 2012, 16:55

@dcarlson12, thanks for the offer. Does your VADIS have the axle removal procedure? yuckuJackD and BKM98 S70 T5, thanks for your additions. The link to the home made tooling is perfect, because I don't have to figure out that part now. I'll remove the control arms today (didn't know about the engine lifting thing) and sandblast them while waiting for parts. I won't press the old bushings out before I have the new, as position and distances are critical. If I measure and write it down, I'll just lose the paper. Welcome to my life. Oh, another question; most times when a part is replaced, Volvo recommends new bolts (screws). Is this ABSOLUTELY necessary? Or is it just Volvo's obsession with safety, and the original fasteners are as good as any.
Of course, there is always one more thing. What's with the "torque to X nm then angle-tighten X degrees"? Why not just state a final torque value and leave it at that?
Thanks again to all for their input. I have gleaned a LOT of valuable information and insight off this website. I considered calling Pick-A-Part to come get it about 6 months ago.

Dirtbag454 · Post by **Dirtbag454** » 03 Jun 2012, 18:56

Just a quick observation: I've been reading all the old posts, and any pertinent database info for my current and anticipated projects. I just read a piece on replacing a front hub and/or axle. Vegasjetskier went through a great deal of trouble to document the various steps involved in removing the spindle to expose and replace the hub assembly. I can short-cut a couple steps by suggesting that caliper/shoe removal is simply accomplished by removing the two bolts (15mm socket) that secure the caliper mount and steering stop bar. If you have already tweaked the caliper to push the piston back in its bore, you will be able to lift the entire assembly off the rotor and set it on an appropriate support. (the paint can is a great support). This only saves a couple steps, but it also saves them on reassembly. also has fewer loose parts laying around, to be kicked into the weeds.
On another note, pay attention to the camber location on the spindle/strut connection. I didn't. S**t! Guess I'll be visiting the alignment shop after I finish this project and replace the tires.