Is this a start of buildup into PCV...

Post by **xHeart** » 04 Jun 2012, 19:46

This 2001 V70XC runs great. Idles at 800rpm, quiet car. I am preparing for 2nd oil change. This time looking closer at the oil filler. Does it need cleaning?

: 2001 V70XC oil filler; MVS_4423a.jpg (405.03 KiB) Viewed 2279 times

Is the grill bent or is it by design?

: ...up close - buildup and bent grill?; MVS_4423b.jpg (474.64 KiB) Viewed 2279 times

How to clean out stuff without it falling in?

Post by **DGM** » 07 Jun 2012, 11:48

It is an indication that your engine has accumulated sludge inside. It would be a good idea to clean it. The oil filler condition will improve during the cleaning process. Many products are available. It may take more than one treatement and I list only a few.

Personnaly for this kind of cleaning I prefer Auto-Rx. It is not radical and it works over oil changes. You will find on this site many discussions about Seafoam. Also "Bob the oil guy" is a good site if you want to investigate the subject.

http://www.auto-rx.com/

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use- ... tment.html

http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/faq/

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... p?ubb=cfrm

Find a picture of my oil filler. The car has 85K miles.

: Oil cap.JPG (154.61 KiB) Viewed 2239 times

And the glove test to assess the state of your PCV system. A good system will pull the glove in.

: PCV Test with Latex glove.JPG (129.4 KiB) Viewed 2239 times

Post by **JRL** » 07 Jun 2012, 14:49

To summerize,
Yours is a mess and this is not "starting", it's clogged.
I have no idea how those fins could get bent!!!

Post by **xHeart** » 12 Jun 2012, 12:08

This may be a good time to prepare a checklist as it would reach 136k miles before the first snow. Is timing belt due at 136k?

draser · Post by **draser** » 12 Jun 2012, 19:55

This typical for irregular oil changes. The whole engine is sludged up, not just the PCV. Chemical cleaners available have limited effect, but it's better than nothing I guess. Timing belt is due at 105K miles per book, but that's stretching it... no pun intended.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 12 Jun 2012, 20:57

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You system is really gunked up. However, regardless of the method you choose, do not let the filler area determine how well you think you've cleaned your engine as that will be to last place to come clean.

Diesel fuel whether 100% or a mixture of Diesel to Motor Oil has been the standard
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=1583006

Transmission Fluid has also been another standard cleaning fluid for engines
http://staceydavid.com/articles/tips/tr ... flush-3917

The following will work great:

Use 714 30W as Motor Oil. It is formulated to do so - See Attached Spec Sheet under High Performance Applications
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/sho ... o_pg10.htm
http://www.kartek.com/product/DriveTrain/ATF.html

Fresh oil change and add - Change oil after 500 to 3000 miles depending on how dirty your engine was to begin with
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/sho ... co_pg6.htm

Protect and Clean as you go 10W-30 or 15W-45 depending on your summer weather
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/sho ... co_pg8.htm

In the 90's I used Mobil 1 Synthetic and in those days the Formulation was high in Detergent so it cleaned things very well. Too well as it would seep into high mileage head gaskets and cause leaks.

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **xHeart** » 16 Jun 2012, 12:28

The stuff around me is coming apart faster than i can fix. If married with family, you know what I mean.

I looked over the maintenance receipts. The last tb was in 113k-mi. It now has 133K-mi. I changed the oil at 129k-mi with Pennzoil 5w30, a simple transmission D&F at 130k-mi.

We are in upper great lakes, not hot in summer, but extreme cold for days.
State Emission test is due August 2012.

Should I increase the frequency of oil change, say every 1500 miles or every month. Add Auto-Rx or like at each change, till restored?

Post by **jblackburn** » 16 Jun 2012, 22:42

I would start with running a can of Seafoam through the whole car. There are a great many posts on this. It will clean your cylinder tops, fuel injection system, and the bottom end of pistons, etc as well when you pour it into the oil. Run it through; change the oil within 200 miles of putting it in (so, when you're about to change it in the first place).

If you think sludge buildup is particularly bad, running straight ATF in the crankcase for 30 minutes at idle will clean out a TON of crap.

Post by **xHeart** » 17 Jun 2012, 08:32

The XC is my girls' ride.

Read through the posts on Seafoam, and Auto-Rx. The theatrical elements of Seafoam would add to the summer excitement at home, dogs may bark for days. I will have to take it away, out-of-sight, as Matthew recommends in his write up here, How to use Seafoam viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29837.

The discussion on Auto-Rx is also interesting, a treatment which takes 2-cycle of oil change. So, after Seafoam treatment...

a) would adding Auto-Rx at the oil change a good next step? It will take us through the winter.

b) should I continue with Penzzoil 5w30?

Post by **DGM** » 17 Jun 2012, 13:44

xHeart wrote: The discussion on Auto-Rx is also interesting, a treatment which takes 2-cycle of oil change. So, after Seafoam treatment...

a) would adding Auto-Rx at the oil change a good next step? It will take us through the winter.

b) should I continue with Penzzoil 5w30?

a) I would say yes, the Seafoam treatment will be like a tune-up and next it will be the longer term cleaning. The reason for shorter oil change intervals with Auto-RX is the fact that the oil filter gets full of particules. Also the oil gets contaminated by the sludge. The second oil change continue to clean the rest. They recommend to use mineral oil for the cleaning. After you resume normal intervals.

b) Normally with a turbo engine it is good practice to use what is called "synthetic oil". I don't want to start a debate here but for Volvo I use Castrol Synthec with good result. The important point is that it should be "high quality oil" and ideally you shouldn't switch brands at every oil change.

Do not extend oil change. Change your oil sooner if you do city driving of short distances in humid climate with extreme temperature.