Some introductory comments, first:
My 2001 exhibited the classic symptoms: AC runs cold for 10 minutes then blows hot air. Checking under the hood, the clutch was disengaged. I tried tapping with a broom but with no effect.
The electro-magnetic clutch plate is extremely sensitive to setup. It has to be spaced with a gap (see below) between 0.3-0.6mm or about .012-.024 inches
The spacing is determined by TWO factors: 1) the metal shims on the inside and 2) the rubber bumpers which stop the clutch plate from moving OUTWARD. Its a stack-up. Simply think of it as spring-->bumber-->plate-->shim-->clutch
The shims wear and get thinner. Other parts wear as well. The shim removal process describes removing a shim to bring the plate closer to the clutch. That's one way. I've read some people claim the bread clip is wrong. Technically it is wrong but the rubber bumbers (nder heat and vibration and pressure) are just as likely to lose some height as the metal shims. So I would contend that replacing the rubber bumpers would help fix the gap problem too. The bread clip is a quick fix to the bumpers. That suggests that it is a perfectly reasonable fix. People's success with it (for years of healthy operation) support that suggestion.
OK, on to the S60 details:
c@olvin's nicely detailed post describes the procedure for an 850-series car
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 0&start=28
Some differences exist from the 850, however. I tried removing and accessing through the passenger wheel well. That doesn't work on the S60 since the compressor is too far forward.
If you don't have foglights, you can use the foglight opening as a nice access point to get a screwdriver in to the clutch.
OK, first thing you need is a cheap feeler gauge (at Harbor Freight Tools for $2.99).
Looking down from above the compressor I labeled the important points with colored arrows in the photo below.
The yellow arrow shows where to measure the gap. If it is greater than 0.6 mm (0.24") then it is out of spec and needs to be corrected.
To do this, you will slip a shim under each of the three bumpers. Two of the three bumper locations can be seen by the green arrows in the photo.
The easiest wat to do this will be to place a flat bladed screwdriver in the space shown by the blue arrow. Then you can turn the screwdriver which will push the plate inward. While doing this you can slip a shim under the rubber bumper.
Calculate your gap size and determine your needed shim thickness. I needed a .4-.5mm shim. I found a plastic No Trespassing sign that was just the right thickness. That was my raw shim material.
After examining the shape and cutting 1 or 2 trial shims, I came up with a good size and shape shown below. This is a good size so it won't slip out. The kidney-shape is to clear a rivet you will see when placing it.
To access the clutch, jack your front passenger wheel. Block the tires and place a jackstand under the frame for safety.
Crawl under the lifted bumber and remove one bolt holding the splash/stone guard, allowing it to hang down. Pull the overflow tube off its holder on the fram and let it hang to the side. Remove the foglight hole insert. This whole process only requires one bolt removal so its super easy.
Using the technique described above, slitp a shim under a rubber bumper, then rotate the clutch by hand and repeat for the other two.
