Official Engine Stalling Thread

V70sorry · Post by **V70sorry** » 14 Jun 2006, 00:41

Reviewing all the posts on this topic it looked like one thread was associated with dirty ETM's early on from Guest, Guest orig and Andrew guest in May 05. My "me too" recent problem was a slowly degrading stalling problem when stopping or idling and loading the engine by turning the steering wheel - not safe when making a left hand turn across traffic.

Started to investigate the notorious ETM and removed the flexible hose between the air filter and ETM and found a surprising amount of dirty oil! A puddle in the hose and pretty thoroughly coated, and a puddle in the ETM and the ETM had crud on and around the throttle plate. I can imagine what is in the bottom of the intake manifold. Oil looks to be coming from a vacuum hose that leads into the backside of the flexible hose to the ETM - what is this hose coming from??? EGR? PCV?

This is the engine that is showing premature wear at 65k miles with bad compression in a couple of cylinders dry and wet so I imagine there is plenty of blowby so this is likely exacerbating the problem with blowing oil into the ETM.

Removing and cleaning the ETM eliminated the stalling problem immediately. As fun and rewarding as it is to clean the ETM and get the car running relatively right again, I'd like to preclude the fouling problem to begin with. I'm still in denial relative to having the engine overhauled but I'm wondering about rigging up an oil trap.

Yet another painful lesson with this car. The dealer, having replaced the ETM once, looked at the car subsequently when the stalling problem started soon after the replacement and said the problem was not the ETM but that it was getting fouled. Not trusting dealers for ..... I assumed they were trying to wriggle out of replacing a faulty ETM again. I took it to my indy who said indeed the ETM was bad so that validated my distrust of the dealer. Now I'm not so sure. The dealer still wanted to go on a fishing expedition starting with the flame trap box (?) for the source of the oil which now I suspect is related to the compression and blow-by problems.

MV850T · Post by **MV850T** » 14 Jun 2006, 05:27

Well I got 3 more codes yesturday. He said there is one for EGR. THey kept it for an extra day because last time they cleared the 16 codes they said the car was perfect and an hour later it wouldn't re-start.

I'm picking it up later today.

Keep ya updated.

MV850T · Post by **MV850T** » 14 Jun 2006, 17:04

MV850T wrote:Well I got 3 more codes yesturday. He said there is one for EGR. THey kept it for an extra day because last time they cleared the 16 codes they said the car was perfect and an hour later it wouldn't re-start.

I'm picking it up later today.

Keep ya updated.

Well that didn't work. EGR hose or line was clear, almost new.

I think it's time to sell this car, which is a shame, because I just got it love it.

No one knows whats goin on at all, dealers, mechs, speciality shops, I'm at witts end.

nbz · Post by **nbz** » 16 Jun 2006, 11:40

Hello to all...
Stalling, man have I had my share of problems with this issue. A couple of months back I thought I had the solution nailed down to pressurization/vacuum in the fuel tank due to a faulty gas cap. Well, that turned out to NOT be the problem. After scanning the Brickboard as well as Matthews Volvo site for the past year, as well as making a variety of attempts to fix (TB, fuel injector cleaning, new battery, flame trap, etc., etc.) I finally bought a new fuel pump relay. For the past month I have had no stalling and the engine performance improved immediately. For those of you with this problem you might want to check out the following...
- The fuel pump relay #103 I removed was original and was MINT GREEN.
- The replacement relay is "pinkish".
Armie

bmrzmr · Post by **bmrzmr** » 16 Jun 2006, 22:29

Hi all. My first post.
Kinda reminds me of a problem with the 740s whereby some relay, the fuel injection relay if I recall correctly, developed cracks in the solder on the circuit board. When the car got warm, the solder separated and caused a no start problem. My indie Volvo mechanic wasn't able to diagnose the problem after replacing a few parts. The answer was on the Brickboard.

mdnite855t5 · Post by **mdnite855t5** » 05 Aug 2006, 08:38

I've been sniffing around this thread for about a week and finally need to post and get help... My beloved t5 is coughing at idle and won't run for more than 30 seconds without revving it. Before I go on a $1000 parts spending spree hoping I can locate the culprit, here's where I am: the car did this a couple of times about a month ago. Once it wouldn't start at all for about five minutes after having set for thirty minutes from a long drive - now it does it all the time. I've replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the tb throroughly inside and out and I'm about to put new oem plugs in (needs them anyway). It will "starve" at idle and sputter at around 800, but if it gets above 1100-1200 it runs great. Take your foot off the pedal and after thirty seconds to a minute it dips down to 800 or so and dies.

I'm thinking perhaps the fuel injector relay is crapping until the alternator kicks up the charge a bit? The usual suspects: fuel pump (seems fine), fuel pump relay (my mechanic says this would cause the cut in power at any rpm..?), air mass sensor? ($282 at my local dealer so i'm holding off), cam position sensor (this usually causes the problem while decelerating...?) Trouble code says "misfire on all cyls." If it is the fi relay, where is it? Thx to all! I'll post my results.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Aug 2006, 10:13

Misfire in all cylinders....that's a hard one to figure out. No other codes? I was thinking along the lines of needing new wires/rotor (or does yours use coil packs?) and plugs and possibly a MAF sensor. Since it's a t5 and has a turbo, usually there is a code when it's the MAF that the turbo isn't getting the right air mixture- and that code would be secondary to a MAF code. Anyway, so that's why I asked about other codes. Did you change spark plugs recently...even in the last year? If so, what did you put in?

mdnite855t5 · Post by **mdnite855t5** » 05 Aug 2006, 11:44

Good call, MIJ. I just got back from Autozone - they ran the obd for me...says maf, misfire on all cylinders. Just bought a fuel pump relay out of desparation...$90 rather than $290 and they had it. Looks like it could be the maf. No one has an maf today so I'll probably just order it.

I just changed plugs to oem volvo plugs to no avail.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Aug 2006, 22:17

I know it hurts but the MAF is not really very cheap. fcpgroton.com is about the cheapest I've found. Sometimes you can find a new one on eBay. I wouldn't buy a used one.

BFE · Post by **BFE** » 09 Aug 2006, 02:10

I ow you all this one:
Finally the root cause to all the cut outs won't start problems has been found. (see previous mails).
After another tow to the garrage and hours spend on various parts being replaced and old ones being put back again when it didn't cure the problem, it surprisingly turned out to be corrosion in a lead in the area under RH head light for main power supply to the CPU (no voltage on terminal 30 for constant power).
One could see that the lead had sort of ballooned in the area where it was corroded.
So some where, perhaps due to a cut, water / salt had managed to get into the wiring system of the car. Who would have thought of that????
I don't think this info is going to help any of you, as it is something which happens very rarely. But anyway that was my story, and I hope I don't have to continue this saga any longer. Good luck to you all.

Official Engine Stalling Thread

Oil fouling ETM - cleaning solved stalling