Cracking upper engine mount bushing, is it safe to drive?

Post by **xHeart** » 05 May 2012, 12:42

Ordered Lemforder, and Hutchinson mount parts. Also installing new cabin filter adapter and charcoal filter during the work on firewall mount.

There are ft/lb torque requirements, and I do not have a torque wrench. Is there a angle/degree turn chart on MVS that i could reference for the ft/lb? cn90's direction for oil pan drain plug is 45º.

Freezing Lemforder to make it harder, and shrink a bit is in my installation notes. Transmission torque mount instruction is straight forward, but there is not enough room for my deep socket set, looking for work around.

All this could be more fun if i had a lift setup in my garage - a wishlist for my home in 22nd century, if this car lasts that long, but for now ibprfn for neck, and back pains will do.

Thanks ALL!

Post by **xHeart** » 13 May 2012, 07:10

I am choosing OEM over AFT for material and engineering. The difference is undeniable, it has more weight, and the rubber has more covered area.

: compared to aftermarket, the OEM mounts are firm, and designed/engineered for strength, you can feel it.; MVS_4162.jpg (427.25 KiB) Viewed 2220 times

It is a mother's day weekend.

KlubMarcus · Post by **KlubMarcus** » 21 Jul 2012, 16:12

I am in the middle of replacing the upper engine mount with a poly mount and the bolt is seized up. I sprayed with PB Blaster and trying again tomorrow. If it still doesn't come off, it's time to hire professionals!

Post by **xHeart** » 21 Jul 2012, 16:48

Learning from MVS DIYers, keep it soaked overnight. It would help if you rotate clockwise few threads as you turn counterclockwise for it to work through the rust and any thread damage.

I suggest replacing nut and bolt when putting it back together, you may find worn threads.

Take your time.

Post by **j_cd** » 21 Jul 2012, 17:53

This is what it looks like "When Good Bushings Go Bad". Pulled this off my car the other day.

It's so much easier to just replace the whole torque arm. Eeuroparts has a Nordic one for only $57. The genuine Volvo can be had for $92. I'm also replacing the whole vertical bushing at the firewall with the updated one.

Question: Does anyone advise also replacing the horizontal torque arm that connects the two? It's under $50, genuine Volvo only. It looks like a part that could get easily bent once the bushings fall apart.

I'll be installing all new engine mounts. Going with Volvo subframe bushings, Corteco rear mount, Hutchinson front and trans torque mounts, and Febi right engine mount.

Any thoughts on the Nordic upper torque arm? Has anyone tried this part? I've heard their rotors aren't the greatest.

Nordic Upper Torque Arm - Eeuroparts

Post by **j_cd** » 22 Jul 2012, 13:19

I did the math on replacing all the engine mounts. If you get the cheaper upper torque arm, hydraulic and subframe bushings, the difference is about $135. Probably not worth the savings, unless the car is only light use.

KlubMarcus · Post by **KlubMarcus** » 23 Jul 2012, 17:27

j_cd wrote:I did the math on replacing all the engine mounts. If you get the cheaper upper torque arm, hydraulic and subframe bushings, the difference is about $135. Probably not worth the savings, unless the car is only light use.

I agree, go with OEM or with aftermarket parts that have an established reputation performing better than OEM. This platform has been around for decades. Companies know what tends to fail and have solutions for them.

Post by **j_cd** » 24 Jul 2012, 14:40

KlubMarcus wrote:I agree, go with OEM or with aftermarket parts that have an established reputation performing better than OEM. This platform has been around for decades. Companies know what tends to fail and have solutions for them.

True. In fact, I shouldn't have cheaped out on the right engine mount (the one beneath the crank pulley). I just received the Febi/Bilstein and the paint job is crap. It's got a stamp that says Febi/Bilstein Germany, but it says Made in China on the box. Looks like a counterfeit made by Scan Tech. I might send this one back and get the Volvo part (Lemforder) for 3 times as much.

KlubMarcus · Post by **KlubMarcus** » 24 Jul 2012, 15:50

j_cd wrote:
KlubMarcus wrote:I agree, go with OEM or with aftermarket parts that have an established reputation performing better than OEM. This platform has been around for decades. Companies know what tends to fail and have solutions for them.
True. In fact, I shouldn't have cheaped out on the right engine mount (the one beneath the crank pulley). I just received the Febi/Bilstein and the paint job is crap. It's got a stamp that says Febi/Bilstein Germany, but it says Made in China on the box. Looks like a counterfeit made by Scan Tech. I might send this one back and get the Volvo part (Lemforder) for 3 times as much.

Chinese made automotive products just aren't up to snuff. I wish they had better quality control, but they just don't. There are only a few things from China that I like: iPod, XBox, and Dell laptop. All the rest have been disappointing, including Chinese made tires (too stiff).

Post by **j_cd** » 27 Jul 2012, 06:24

Alright, I need help. Is that cn90 guy around? Remember a few posts ago when I said how much easier it is to replace the whole torque arm? Uh yeah, I was talking out my posterior apparently.

I've got the bolts off and that sucker won't budge. It appears that it's either pressed in where the two lower bolts go, or it's supposed to be pried off. I don't want to start prying on the thing if that's not what you're supposed to do. I thought this was an easy part replacement, but I may end up just putting in a new bushing like everyone else.

front bolt hole

rear bolt hole

Cracking upper engine mount bushing, is it safe to drive?

Re: Cracking upper engine mount bushing, is it safe to drive