Simplest way to remove engine only-850

SimLyons · Post by **SimLyons** » 27 Jul 2012, 02:11

I've read a lot of opinions here on the best, fastest, simplest,etc. But since I have no means or the facility to drop the entire engine and transmission cradle as a package, my option is up and out, using an engine lift. I would hope to leave the trannie in. Possible? I also think all of my operations can be done in chassis, but at great cost to time and lots of access problems.

I'm doing the timing belt, water pump, drop pan and replace suction seal, prpbably remove cyl head and replace with exchange. Of course I'll change fluids, filters, belts and thermostat, too. The only question is 'what will the bearings and pistons look like. Im thinking renting an engine lift and an engine stand will save me a lot of hassle and time on the actual engine work.

Suggestions anyone? Please?

Post by **bskeels** » 27 Jul 2012, 04:21

I just replaced an engine in my sister's 2000 XC70, I was tried to remove the engine only, there is no room to seperate the engine from the transmission, I had to pull as one. Like you I only had the option of up and out.

Post by **Ben850** » 27 Jul 2012, 06:23

I need to do the rear main seal on mine when I get the opportunity and plan on doing it from the bottom. I don't have the facility, nor do I have an engine lift. ( I may be able to borrow a friends.) But either way I will probably pick up an engine support from Harbor Freight. It is inexpensive and should do the trick. Ive seen a write-up where someone was able to remove the complete subframe to replace bushings, and this little support bar did the trick.

If you plan on tearing the whole block down and you say you have an engine lift and stand, you might as well just take the engine and trans both through the top, and separate them after you pull them. As the previous post explained, the trans will not come apart while mounted in the car.
Good luck.

EDIT: I stand corrected by jimmy57 below, It sounds tight. Fun too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-ca ... 96524.html

Post by **j_cd** » 27 Jul 2012, 06:59

Ben850 wrote:Ive seen a write-up where someone was able to remove the complete subframe to replace bushings, and this little support bar did the trick.

Not to derail the topic, but I plan to replace subframe bushings soon. Any chance you can find a link to that write-up? Time for a Harbor Freight visit.

Post by **jimmy57** » 27 Jul 2012, 08:07

I remove engine only. There is just barely enough room and the trans has to be supported by a jack from below. The trans can be pulled towards frame on that side with mechanic's wire to assure the clearance is there.
Here is an earlier post:

Re: Engine swap questions 850 Turbo into S70 T5 ..Update !!

Postby jimmy57 » 08 Jul 2012, 16:31
I have removed and re-installed T5 engines several times lately.

I didn't take pictures.

Drain coolant via the drain on back of engine towards t belt end of engine. No need to drain rad unless you want it drained.

Disconnect battery, remove it for some more room if you desire or need to clean anything up around battery.

Remove air cleaner housing completely. This means the fresh air hose to rad top and then the air scoop over rad top.

Remove hose down to turbo. Take note of the hoses that attach to this hose near MAF sensor end.

Remove throttle hose, and the hose and pipe from turbo down by throttle to the metal tube to lower intercooler. Hard pipe to lower icooler is not in your way.
Find the TX25 screws at top of the shroud extension and remove those. The rad is now a little flexible to tip back and allow the access to upper icooler hose so it can be removed. Take off the pipe from computer box and remove the computer box top by prying the stainless tabs (2).
Unplug the wires from the fan relay and undo the cable tie for the across shroud harness. Take note of hoses from the purge valve and the secondary solenoid. Note wires too. the sec air solenoid will slide out of the upper shroud. Undo the two 8 mm bolts holding the fan shroud to rad. Now the fan shroud will tip back and you can slide the upper shroud straight up. Move all wires/harness back onto motor a bit and make sure they are all clear from shroud. Lift shroud straight up. It is tight and the shroud barely clears the idle air control valve. The oil cooler hoses will hang you up a bit too.
Unplug starter solenoid wire and then undo the batt cables to starter. Remove the one starter brace bolt to block and then undo the two starter bolts through bell hsg. The harness over trans will give you a fit so you undo the nut for the harness clamp and then it will move over. Set starter aside.
disconnect a/c clutch wire, ect sensor lead, alternator wires, knock sensor double leads into the one connector, oil p switch wire, and the one bolt through ground wire. Take out the one bolt under intake holding dipstick tube and lift out tube then plug the hole with something, at least on the good motor.
Use circlip spreader pliers and open the clip on each oil cooler hose at rad so the hose slips out.
Remove p/s pump. release tension on serp belt and set belt off. remove the three bolts through the holes in pulley. bolts are are at 4;30,8;30, and 10;30.
Unplug the injectors, crank sensor, cam sensor, throttle pos sensor, IAC valve and lay those harnesses aside.
There is a bolt closer to motor through bracket, and the one you see forward that passes thru alt and the p/s bracket. Also remove the long bolt through crash bracket that passes over the reservoir.
Pump can be set aside and wired to something to stay put and out of the way.
Now remove a/c comp. Take off the idler roller for serp belt by popping it s cap off and taking out the 12mm bolt. the top front comp 14mm bolt is accessible now. I suggest removing the computer box for a little more room and to prevent breaking the box with engine. One bolt by washer tank fill and three of the stainless spring tabs to pry out and then slide box straight up. Remove the coolant tank, unplug the sensor wire, and set it aside too. Box pulls straight up.
undo that top comp bolt and then under RH wheel housing take off the one 10mm plastic nut and fold the lower fender liner back where it is hinged. use vise grips to clip it back The lower comp bolt is now accessible with a 14mm swivel socket(universal joint socket). The back two compressor bolts can be unscrewed . The back two bolts thread into an aluminum bracket-nut gizmo. it will fall out. You'll cuss this piece on re-install......
Set compressor towards rad and wire it to stay put. undo the oil cooler hoses from block and the fitting they go into on front of engine oil pan and set those oil dripping hoses aside.
I now undo the auto trans torque converter bolts (6 TX 47 or TX50) through the starter hole. Use a socket 30 mm or 1 3/16 on crank nut to turn engine. There is an access opening on bck of block too but I prefer to stand up front as to lay on back to use the back access. The back hole is so small that you can't drop TC bolts into bell housing, not important for removal but is important on install.
The two under front of crank should stay for now but rememeber those for later for when you are ready to lift it out.
Take the turbo shield off. The bolt on rear edge of shield and the two bolts with springs. The shield will sort of roll out of place.
take off the three turbo flange exhaust pipe bolts. Also remove the sec air tube with check valve.
Squeeze the sides of the heater hose pipes at the firewall connection and those will slide out.
You can now take out all but two easy to reach engine to trand bolts. Take note of their location and lengths, they do vary. 4 across top facing trans, 2 down front below where starter was removed, 3 facing front of engine behind engine upper, and the 4 down low. all 14 mm heads The lower rad hose should be removed and folded forward to get the uppers as the hose has to be disconnected. And you should have removed the upper rad hose a long time ago but I forgot to mention that.

Attach chain from the hole in top of p/s bracket all the way over to back of head/block. I go down to the lower bolt for the torque mount bracket and make sure any hoses are not behind chain for chain to crush.
The tricky part now is to use a short length of chain and a hardware store turnbuckle to give the engine support for leveling.
Attach your engine lift to the chain and then lift it up to put pressure on the chain. now you can remove the front engine mount bolts. use the second chain and turn buckle attached to midpoint of main chain and I use the back top stud on turbo (oh, by the way, pull the exhaust pipe off utrbo and wire to the rh side of sngine compartment somewhere to keep it clear of turbo 3 inches or so) and then tighten the turnbuckle to put a good bit of pressure on the second chain. Don't buy the little fragile turnbuckle, get one with 3/8" or 10mm thread stock.
The engine will want to lay back too much and the second chain supports it to keep it at its correct angle so getting it out of trans and back in for install is not such a fight or chance to mess something up.
On FWD you will need to support trans with jack or other way as it will be resting on subframe but unsupported otherwise.
The engine will go the RH side enough to clear the trans by a fraction then lift 'er out.
OH, take the two braided ground straps off the cam cover up top, 10 mm bolts.

on putting it back in: the concentric slave cylinder (98's built from early 97 to may 97 have the external slave with release arm, from that point afterwards the slave fitted around input shaft integral with release bearing is used) will make you have to push the engine into bell housing as the slave has a spring and it will be extended requiring you to push clutch against it.

Posts: 2881
Joined: 12 Nov 2010, 10:25
Location: Ponder Texas
Model, Year: 98 xc70, et al

Post by **Ben850** » 27 Jul 2012, 08:10

Quote- "Not to derail the topic, but I plan to replace subframe bushings soon. Any chance you can find a link to that write-up? Time for a Harbor Freight visit." -Quote

Ok, I found the write-up on Volvospeed. The guy was replacing his rack, and also decided to do all the subframe bushings. He also uses the engine support that I had mentioned above, and a nifty tool for the bushings.($200.) See if this link works. If not, go to Volvospeed and search," Subframe bushing and steering rack" , or just subframe bushing will probably do.

It's a nice write-up and maybe you can borrow his tool. With a deposit probably.
Good luck.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/15 ... try2138603

Also, nice detailed explanation above, jimmy57.

byeboy · Post by **byeboy** » 27 Jul 2012, 08:53

I don't know the size of that Bushing Driver, but here is an agglomeration of Driver parts and pieces that I used back when I went through all the bushings on my 240. If you quote me the exact sizes, I will check mine with calipers, then let you borrow, as Ben 850 suggests.

Post by **j_cd** » 27 Jul 2012, 11:09

Thanks guys. That's a cool thread. Not sure if I want to pull the whole subframe... maybe. I didn't realize Volvo actually made the press tool. Laugh if you will, but I might just buy the tool. It will look good next to my Volvo Camshaft/Crankshaft Alignment Tool (KTC Tools). Coincidentally, that tool doesn't come with instructions either.

JordanW · Post by **JordanW** » 27 Jul 2012, 17:24

Post by **Ben850** » 27 Jul 2012, 17:39

No disrespect to you JordanW, But when I clicked on this link, my virus software had to block a Java trojan horse threat. So I don't know if you were aware of this , but if anyone else clicks on it, beware.
And it is the same guy/story as the Volvospeed link.

Addendum: I would say edit out your post since they are the same. Just a suggestion to be safe.