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Control Arm - lower left and right

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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reija2004
Posts: 1
Joined: 30 July 2012
Year and Model: S60 2.46, 2001
Location: alabama

Control Arm - lower left and right

Post by reija2004 »

my 01' with 86,000 miles has been shaking horrendously when i give it gas above 20 miles an hour. Upon mechanic's suggestions we replaced the front and rear motor mounts and the torque strut bar. No improvement. Next we replaced the front left and right cv axles, little improvement. As a final option he says the left and right front lower control arm bushings are bad. So I said replace them, and he said he can't without a special machine so after labor it would be just as cheap to get a new control arm with the bushings installed. Fine. So I found multiple ones online ( http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... 05%2BVOLVO ). $80-$100...not so bad. I told him the online price and he said he talked to his volvo guy and an 01 s60 2.4t needs a special control arm that costs $190, which is the retail price of a normal one from parts stores.

Are there two possible types of control arms for my vehicle?
or would the ones from the rockauto link above be just fine?

igel513
Posts: 286
Joined: 27 September 2008
Year and Model: 2003 S60 T5
Location: California
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by igel513 »

Check out IPD and eEuro for comparisons. The P2 cars should have the same contol arms. Your mechanic probably wanted to install OEM parts and not the after market w/c are cheaper. You can also have a shop w/ a hydrolic press replace the bushings. That's what I did and it came out cheaper. Inspect your inner/outer tie rod end, ball joints and struts. These cars' suspension and steering components easily wear out even at less than 100k miles (poor design/qality???)

caliwagon
Posts: 12
Joined: 22 May 2011
Year and Model: 2007 XC90 V8
Location: Newhall, CA
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by caliwagon »

Replacing the control arms may be needed (I had to do mine at 125k), but make sure you have your front wheels rebalanced first to make sure that's not the issue.
2007 XC90 V8
1998 S70 T5M
1986 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.3-16
Favorite past rides: 1998 V70 T5M, 1967 1800S, 2002 Subaru WRX

RaymanSean
Posts: 246
Joined: 26 September 2010
Year and Model: V70 XC, 2001
Location: columbia, sc

Post by RaymanSean »

On the XC's the control arms are pretty easy to do. On the V's it seems (or at least a lot of people claim it to be so) that you have to use a lever to cajole the control arms into place. It seems that most European cars are sensitive to their suspensions. I do not know if that is because we are used to the responsiveness and feel of the better handling suspensions, or if we are just more accustomed to American suspensions, which are usually worn out around 50,000 but no one can tell because they always handle poorly (I will undoubtedly be attacked for this comment. I have thick skin).

Does the vibration change with engine speed, road speed, or neither?

fazool
Posts: 746
Joined: 6 February 2010
Year and Model: S60, 2007
Location: buffalo, NY
Been thanked: 7 times

Post by fazool »

RaymanSean wrote:...we are used to the responsiveness and feel of the better handling suspensions, or if we are just more accustomed to American suspensions, which are usually worn out around 50,000 but no one can tell because they always handle poorly...

/AGREE

2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)

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