P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
HECK YES!

'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Hi again,
So I am moving through this procedure and after lifting the intake manifold I noticed these oily/gunky streaks on the lateral sides of the intake channels. Is this normal? If not, ideas on cause? Should I attempt to clean or does that risk contamination? Wait for some some sort of additive treatment like seafoam
Thanks for your ideas!
Since this is my first time taking this stuff apart,it's disturbing to notice all the screws missing, loose components, and random questionable fixes that previous owners/repair shops have done.
Take care,
-matt
So I am moving through this procedure and after lifting the intake manifold I noticed these oily/gunky streaks on the lateral sides of the intake channels. Is this normal? If not, ideas on cause? Should I attempt to clean or does that risk contamination? Wait for some some sort of additive treatment like seafoam
Thanks for your ideas!
Since this is my first time taking this stuff apart,it's disturbing to notice all the screws missing, loose components, and random questionable fixes that previous owners/repair shops have done.
Take care,
-matt
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TERINASSsydwayz
- Posts: 88
- Joined: 19 September 2010
- Year and Model: 97' 855 R
- Location: Evans. GA
DAMN! i hope mine doesn't look like that when i do this this weekend. if it does though i am gonna reach in and pull out as much of that crap as possible and then brakeleen the heel out of anything i cant reach and then blow it out with air. good luck man, and thanks for asking some really great questions whose answers i will be taking into consideration when i'm knocking out mine
90' Supra n/a slick-top cruiser/DD
95' 240sx n/a gutted drift bitch
97' 855 R family ride, wife's DD
Various Fire/Rescue/EMS vehicles daily....
Evans, GA ~ 706 832 4273
95' 240sx n/a gutted drift bitch
97' 855 R family ride, wife's DD
Various Fire/Rescue/EMS vehicles daily....
Evans, GA ~ 706 832 4273
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
That is from the PCV not venting properly and oil being sucked through the turbo/throttle body hoses.
There's all kinds of degreaser sprays at auto parts stores - pick a good strong one and dirty up some rags.
I found a wrench dropped down below the intake manifold, and a 10mm socket from when I did the job the first time. It was a pretty nice wrench too!
There's all kinds of degreaser sprays at auto parts stores - pick a good strong one and dirty up some rags.
I found a wrench dropped down below the intake manifold, and a 10mm socket from when I did the job the first time. It was a pretty nice wrench too!
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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Gubernaculum
- Posts: 93
- Joined: 22 January 2012
- Year and Model: '00 s70
- Location: SC
I just did the job on my 2000 s70 glt se (low pressure turbo). It was a pain. I could do it faster next time. The write-ups you see are for earlier models, not for later models with the ETM. The throttle body is different as well as some of the other routing. So, I'm leaving this tip here in case someone finds it by searching.
I started by basically following Xemodex's instructional video on how to remove the throttle body. That got me pretty far along. I recommend using that to get you started on this job.
To get the intake off I had to disconnect the fuel line at the quick disconnect. I didn't know what the quick disconnect was at first and freaked out when I couldn't get the fuel line off. They make a ford/volvo fuel line quick disconnect tool, or you can use two small regular screwdrivers to hold the tabs up which is what I did.
Also, I removed one of the lines going into the bottom front right corner of the intake mani, which turned out to be coolant, which dripped everywhere. I think you could get away with just removing the banjo bolt at that location on the bottom once the manifold is loose.
I used the FCP groton kit which didn't include the long line that snakes around to the turbo side of the engine. Mine seemed open so I left it be, but I did clean out the piece of the line that goes to the banjo bolt on the bottom of the intake manifold. Mine was clogged there.
I used regular hose clamps for several connections, as my kit didn't have enough, or they weren't the right sizes.
Overall it was a pain in the ass. Good luck. Thanks for the help everyone.
I started by basically following Xemodex's instructional video on how to remove the throttle body. That got me pretty far along. I recommend using that to get you started on this job.
To get the intake off I had to disconnect the fuel line at the quick disconnect. I didn't know what the quick disconnect was at first and freaked out when I couldn't get the fuel line off. They make a ford/volvo fuel line quick disconnect tool, or you can use two small regular screwdrivers to hold the tabs up which is what I did.
Also, I removed one of the lines going into the bottom front right corner of the intake mani, which turned out to be coolant, which dripped everywhere. I think you could get away with just removing the banjo bolt at that location on the bottom once the manifold is loose.
I used the FCP groton kit which didn't include the long line that snakes around to the turbo side of the engine. Mine seemed open so I left it be, but I did clean out the piece of the line that goes to the banjo bolt on the bottom of the intake manifold. Mine was clogged there.
I used regular hose clamps for several connections, as my kit didn't have enough, or they weren't the right sizes.
Overall it was a pain in the ass. Good luck. Thanks for the help everyone.
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Mad Dog Tannen
- Posts: 38
- Joined: 27 November 2011
- Year and Model: 1999 V70XC
- Location: Dirty Jersey ;(
Nice job. It looks like I need to do this soon!
1999 V70XC, debadged, 3" exhaust from downpipe to tip, 16T, ARD tune, R manifold.
2000 Honda RC51 (toy)
2000 Honda RC51 (toy)
I am considering PCV system repair for my 01 V70 T5. I can't seem to find any repair instructions in the applicable section on this site. Should I just use the instructions from this thread or can you point me to better instructions for my car?
I currently have 330,000 kms on the car and am experiencing oil leaks that may be attributed to the PCV system.
I currently have 330,000 kms on the car and am experiencing oil leaks that may be attributed to the PCV system.
I am in the middle of doing this repair. Recently bought a 2000 v70 XC with 200k miles on it for 700 dollars. The car had a clunky angle gear and did not want to fool with it any longer. I successfully converted it to 2WD and started to focus on maintenance. This car had rarely ever been maintained by the looks of it. It had original everything...and I mean everything...
After doing brakes and various filter changes, I let the car idle for a bit. After a good bit of warming up, I jumped in and gave it some light to medium throttle to clear it up. After doing this, I noticed white smoke coming from the tailpipe. I assumed the turbo oil seals were toast, but after some inspection of the oil soaked intercooler pipes, I knew the seals could not be blowing by such a heavy amount of oil.
I did some research on these forums and others and discovered the common PCV system issue on these. I knew this was the culprit immediately as others described white smoke as a result of a dirty system. Today I tore down the system and discovered that the ports that lead into the canister were completely clogged. Nothing was getting through that canister.
One question I have is this.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6608/112 ... ox-coupler
The above coupler was not on the car. I assume it connects the canister to the bottom port? The car had a piece of black hose and two hose clamps connecting it. They were worm gear clamps, so I know it was not factory. I just need to verify that this piece does in fact connect the bottom of the canister to the bottom port by itself.
The top port to canister hose is going to be replaced. The hose that runs to the turbo on the rear and the hose that runs to the valve cover are not broken so I will re-use them.
I've built Nissan race cars and do hobby work on Nissans, so this Volvo is quite simple. The compression clamps are a joke, but when you are replacing a majority of the lines anyway, replacing the clamps is not an issue. I cannot wait to get it all back together and enjoy the new to me daily driver. Thanks guys!
After doing brakes and various filter changes, I let the car idle for a bit. After a good bit of warming up, I jumped in and gave it some light to medium throttle to clear it up. After doing this, I noticed white smoke coming from the tailpipe. I assumed the turbo oil seals were toast, but after some inspection of the oil soaked intercooler pipes, I knew the seals could not be blowing by such a heavy amount of oil.
I did some research on these forums and others and discovered the common PCV system issue on these. I knew this was the culprit immediately as others described white smoke as a result of a dirty system. Today I tore down the system and discovered that the ports that lead into the canister were completely clogged. Nothing was getting through that canister.
One question I have is this.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6608/112 ... ox-coupler
The above coupler was not on the car. I assume it connects the canister to the bottom port? The car had a piece of black hose and two hose clamps connecting it. They were worm gear clamps, so I know it was not factory. I just need to verify that this piece does in fact connect the bottom of the canister to the bottom port by itself.
The top port to canister hose is going to be replaced. The hose that runs to the turbo on the rear and the hose that runs to the valve cover are not broken so I will re-use them.
I've built Nissan race cars and do hobby work on Nissans, so this Volvo is quite simple. The compression clamps are a joke, but when you are replacing a majority of the lines anyway, replacing the clamps is not an issue. I cannot wait to get it all back together and enjoy the new to me daily driver. Thanks guys!
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