screeching sound like fan is catching

[MadeInJapan]

Well, not the end of the story.
Took most of the day to source a Volvo ignition switch (electrical part).
Got every thing replaced and all was fine until I hit a bump in the road, then the starter starts to screech...the brand new one I had put in, so it's not the ignition switch. Working right not to wire things up so that I don't have to reach down to the starter and burn my arm every time I need to start the car after it has been running for awhile. I have no clue as to what this is- it's very strange. The first wire I ran kept killing the 2nd 10amp fuse in the triangular box under the hood. I suspect some type of power surge through that connector.

If someone has experience this, please let me know what the solution is...it's becoming very frustrating.

[cn90]

Maybe the wire feeding the starter motor is shorted out intermittently.

Back to original question: are you sure it is the starter?
Get a mechanic stethoscope and listen to determine the exact source of the noise.

[jblackburn]

There's a ground connection down by the oil pan somewhere that I believe serves as the (switched) ground for the starter, which has a direct feed from the battery. Sounds like you've got some kind of ground problem...somewhere.

Some people have had issues with the wiring loom in the steering column. Does adjusting the tilt cause anything to act up?

[nitehawk55]

Definately something shorting out that feeds the starter when you hit a bump . Give the wiring a good inspection , hopefully the issue will be obvious .

Could be in the steering column or points in between as JB suggested .

Is there any relays in the starter circuit that may be effected by a bump or vibration ?

[fields 100]

The ground to the starter motor is permanent. The starter solenoid receives positive potential from the ignition switch via anti- theft relay and inhibitor switch (auto trans). So, if the starter had not been replaced, I would suspect weak or broken return
spring.Otherwise I am with cn90 on this:somewhere within the harness the insulation of the control wiring between ignition switch and the starter's control terminal is rubbed through and intermittently comes to contact with another positive wire or terminal.

[MadeInJapan]

Maybe the wire feeding the starter motor is shorted out intermittently.

Back to original question: are you sure it is the starter?
Get a mechanic stethoscope and listen to determine the exact source of the noise.

I just replaced the starter yesterday because it continued to spin w/ the engine which tore it completely up inside.
Yes, it's the starter- or was, but the issue is deeper than this- I believe I'm getting a short/current from somewhere and it's not suppose to be there. The fuse that controls the IAC, MAF, the Injectors and the Control Module Power Supply keeps blowing too. It's somewhere in this circuit but I can't figure it out- Gee...I hate electrical problems in these cars, especially when they cause major issues and cost a lot to repair from the issues they cause.

In regards to the switched ground for the starter (near the oil pan), I'm not sure but I would have though the mechanic who was in there to replace the starter would have picked up on that if that was the issue.

That said, it has crossed my mind that the tumbler part of the ignition switch may have been the part I should have replaced.
Does anyone have any opinion on this?

[MadeInJapan]

I thought I had posted an hour ago- got called away, so the above is the post from then...
After that, two more comments were added.
Problem is, it's not intermittent anymore- so whatever has rubbed through or causing this surge of power (constantly on to the starter) is staying that way. There was a brief period yesterday that this wasn't so, but all day today as I worked on the car, the extra power was all there... The starter motor will start up even if the key is out of the ignition- thus having to jump it with the green wire to get it going, and then allowing the green wire to just fall next to where it normally would be connected all the time.

[cn90]

The conclusion to this saga has to be the Starter Relay!

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Take a minute to study the Bosch Starter, this design has been around for some 50 years or so.

When the Green wire (#50) is energized by the key in Position III (starting), power is fed to Green wire ---> Starter Solenoid Plunger is moved forward, which will do 2 things:

1. Supplying current to Motor itself: now current flows from 1 ---> 2 ---> 3, spinning the Motor Shaft.

2. The Clutch (#4) is engaged so the Starter Motor SHAFT is locked into the pinion.
The pinion normally freewheels when the engine runs, but when the Starter Motor is energized the Starter Motor SHAFT is locked into the pinion allowing you to crank the engine. As soon as you release your key from Position III, power to #50 is cut off, the Clutch disengages. Now the pinion free-wheels again.

Starter01.JPG (70.57 KiB) Viewed 1317 times

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Back to the wiring diagram supplied by "BEJinFBK":

1- When you turn key to "Position III" (Start), power flows from #50 in ignition switch ---> starter relay (labeled "2/35").
See BLUE Arrows.

2- Now starter relay is switched on, power goes from #30 ---> #87 on relay ---> #50 on Starter Motor.
By supplying power to #50, the Starter Motor now runs.
See GREEN Arrows.

Starter02.JPG (101.58 KiB) Viewed 1317 times

[MadeInJapan]

Got up feeling hopeless about this and then I came down and refreshed this thread and there was your post!!
Thanks cn90 for the great information!!
I am now on the search for a new relay today (Sunday).
I'm wondering if any of the other relays in the car are interchangeable with the Starter Relay so I can try it and see if it works.

[cn90]

It is standard 5-prong relay (by Bosch). However, the 5-prong relay has 2 types:

a. Both 87 terminals are activated together. This is what you want.

b. 87a and 87b are switched separately. You don't want this type of relay.

Just remove the relay for now (insert it only when you want to start the car, then once the car starts, remove it).
Then get a new relay at dealer tomorrow.

It is called a "J" relay, nothing special to it, just a 5-prong type.
I think it is Volvo PN 9130269, check to be sure.
About $14 at dealer.