buying advice sought,

jac9f · Post by **jac9f** » 17 Aug 2006, 11:18

Hi All,
I did also post this on another volvo board, so forgive me if you all belong there too.
I'm looking to purchase a '95 850, and it's a couple hundred miles from where I live.
It's looking very reasonable, but for a claimed rear main seal leak that's dousing the crank position sensor and creating running issues, as you would imagine.
the car hasn't had any pvc/flame trap service in recent history, which seems to be the first place to look.

I know that there's only so much you can figure from a description, but wanted to engage the wisdom of the members here

many thanks
!@

jack

cocka · Post by **cocka** » 17 Aug 2006, 12:57

Go to the Bay 13 & Ozbricks forums they cover all the probs you seem to have.

Pauly · Post by **Pauly** » 17 Aug 2006, 13:56

Jack,

This car would have to have a great price. I paid $800 to have the rear main seal replaced on my 850. It's a big job, involving removal of the tranny. The crank sensor is no big deal.

If you like to work on cars, the 850 is for you. I love driving mine, so it's worth it to me and cheaper than a new car payment. I just like european cars. My 850 turbo requires some work about every two months, mostly electrical problems. Other common problems (glove box latch, odometer, PNP switch, horn button) can be fixed yourself with help from forums like this one. If you can't do most of your own work, I would pass on this car.

Post by **JRL** » 17 Aug 2006, 18:59

Why even bother starting with a car like this?

cocka · Post by **cocka** » 17 Aug 2006, 19:29

JRL wrote:Why even bother starting with a car like this?

Some people like a challenge after all.

A lot would depend on,

1. Price
2. kms/miles
3. Condition of the rest of the car.
4. How good you are at doing your work on the car.
5. Whether your prepared to chase up parts etc. at the right prices and places

Replacing/removing the flame trap, oil change with a good multi grade oil (not too heavy, not too light about 15/40), new filter and a couple new washers here and there might solve the oil leak problem, did for mine.

jac9f · Post by **jac9f** » 17 Aug 2006, 19:48

Thanks for you feedback,

I'm very adept at dealing with mechanics and such,
I have been all my life
my daily driver in NYC is a '73 Imperial which has been in the family since
it was new (and I was 15?!?)
It's gotten to be too much to keep that one in shape and deal with day to day driving here (gas$) and I'm itching for a new project.
I've been following the volvo forums for a while and a 850 seems like it will hit the spot, for lot's of reasons
A couple of other factors.
This car is quite inexpensive
it's a 5speed and the seal problem aside, it's very clean and together.
it's being sold by the original owner
And I have an independent volvo/saab shop around the corner from me here in brooklyn who quoted
me a very very reasonable price, should I need to have the RMS replaced.

that's the thinking at the moment

I appreciate your thoughts on the matter

Thanks

j

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 17 Aug 2006, 21:44

If you're going to buy an 850, get the free Service Manual for it, now available here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=8018

jac9f · Post by **jac9f** » 17 Aug 2006, 22:28

Thanks!
I'm way ahead of you..
I downloaded it last night.
I even loaded a copy onto my palm lifedrive, to take along when I go to get the car next week.
!

Post by **robert213** » 18 Aug 2006, 06:19

If you are concerned about condition of the engine, then have your local friendly neighborhood dealership perform a visual inspection and an engine compression test (about $130). At least, perform a cooling system leakdown test. I placed the pump at the cooling system reservior tank. Be careful that it doesn't fly off under pressure. There shouldn't be any leaks at 18 psi.

Find your Volvo on-line...
http://www.autotrader.com
http://www.cars.com -- on-line listings from classified ads of local newspapers
http://www.craigslist.com -- click on on-line classified ads from your city

Utility for searching gov't records...
http://www.carfax.com

Utility for identifying model year, make, model, trim of vehicle...
http://vin.stronghold.com

10th position of VIN indicates model year...
S - 1995
T - 1996
V - 1997
W - 1998

4th position of VIN determines sedan/wagon...

5th and 6th position of VIN indicated engine code...
53 - MY98 S70 T5 with turbo
55 - MY93-97 850 with DOHC 2.4L I5 with no turbo
56 - MY97 850 GLT with DOHC 2.4L I5 with small turbo at 6 psi
57 - MY93-97 850 Turbo with DOHC 2.3L I5 with large turbo at 9.5 psi
58 - MY95-97 850 R with DOHC 2.3L I5 with large turbo at 9.5 psi (10.5 for initial 20 secs)

Pre-purchase check list...
Coolant system leakdown test will identify possible problem with head gasket
Engine compression test will identify possible problems with piston rings or head valves
Visual Inspection from Volvo Dealership ($130) will verify over-all condition of car

Maintenance items to expect to be addressed immediately after purchase...

1) Brake Pads and Rotors
In my experience, OEM pads only last 25K miles. Rotors must be replaced, they can't be turned.

2) ATF (Dexron-III) will be black.
I would not power flush, in fear that debris will break loose and cause problems.

Here are procedures that I used to drain and fill...
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=6887

Best option is to purchase ATF DIY flush kit from
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx? ... RootID=629

This does NOT apply to 1999 and newer Volvo(s) which have AW55-50/51SN transmission. This transmission requires Mobil/Volvo JWS 3309. It is not synthetic. It is expensive -- $18/quart.

3) Do NOT use power steering fluid. Our systems use Dexron-III.

4) Volvo no longer sells 87C/190F thermostat. Do NOT use OEM 90C/195F, purchase 87C/190F Wahler from
http://www.fcpgroton.com

Here are procedures that I used to replace thermostat and ECT...
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?p=17828

5) Misc.
-- purchase a hydraulic jack to lift front of car for oil changes
-- purchase a pair of jack stands (place on engine sub-frame)
-- purchase a package of aluminum crush washers for oil drain plug
-- purchase a magnetic oil drain plug from FCPGroton (optional)
-- purchase one aluminum crush washer for ATF drain plug

jac9f · Post by **jac9f** » 23 Aug 2006, 14:03

Thanks Robert,
that's alot of good info.
The original 850 I was looking at turns out to be much more of a 'project'
than I have the desire to deal with.
I'm looking at another rather hi mileage 5speed that seems to be a few steps up the used car food chain.

more as it happens

Thanks again

jack