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Repair Door Hinge Stop, 850

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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byeboy
Posts: 391
Joined: 5 September 2011
Year and Model: 850R, 1997
Location: Texas

Repair Door Hinge Stop, 850

Post by byeboy »

The door hinge stop wears out, allowing the door to 'flop' open, without those little 'bump-sops' in between, and also to just swing shut, with nothing keeping it open, I ordered a new hinge stop ("Door Check") from FCP Groton ($35.00, free ship) after living with a worn out one for over a year.

Original Driver's Door Hinge Check far side (178,000 miles), and the new one:

Image

You get to it by removing the inner door panel...not at all difficult. First you (carefully) pry the upper panel insert off. Its made from thin particle board stuff, and will snap like a saltine cracker,so 'nudge it off the three plastic buttons holding it in place: If you break it, I suspect some glue (I like Goop) or tw0 sided tape will make an invisible repair when you re-assemble everything.

Image

There are two Torx screws under there to remove

Then there are five or six T-25 Torx along the bottom edge of the door to remove...then this "hidden/sneaky" bolt that is the lower right speaker bolt holding the panel on:

Image

After these are out, the black flat handle that you pull to open the door is simply mounted with a pressure foot spring, so just pull it up and off....then the panel will wiggle up, then off the door.

Image

That red plug in the upper right is where that long speaker bolt went!

At this point, having done it once, it would take me only five minutes to get here, just to give you an example of time needed.

The Check is behind this little access door (Thank you Volvo!). It just pops of, and the hinge check unbolts from the "outside", with two 10 mm nuts and a T 30 Torx.

Image

When unbolted the check is rotated 90 degrees 1/4 turn (swing bottom towards door skin) then wiggled out.

I attached a Zip Tie to the floppy T30 part to help me guide it back through the hole.

Image

It will not go through the hole in the correct position, It must be rotated 90 degrees to fit...You'll have to discover this for yourself.
Put some white Lithium grease on the contact surfaces,remember to put the rubber boot back on (I put mine on backwards, I think...but it still seems to work.
Retrace your steps and you are finished!

Sure is nice to have that all fixed..I suspect the dealer would have charged about $350.00 to do this...

januwan
Posts: 201
Joined: 23 May 2006
Year and Model: 97 850 NA 205 K
Location: SF Bay Area
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Post by januwan »

I just finished this job and would recommend to remove all speaker screws and disconect the speaker before taking panel off. It will install easier and you will not have to twist and flex panel during installation.
januwan

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E Showell
Posts: 3275
Joined: 16 October 2008
Year and Model: ‘07 S80 3.2
Location: Long Valley, N.J.
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Post by E Showell »

It is best to attend to this repair at the first signs of a failed door check. Failure to do so may result in cracking of the actual sheetmetal of the door or door pillar. Both are weak spots. If you get a break in either place, the only viable repairs involve welding and are thus significantly more complex than simply replacing a failed door check.
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camjohns
Posts: 82
Joined: 14 February 2013
Year and Model: N/A 850 97, 850R 96
Location: United States
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Post by camjohns »

Is there a difference between the parts for the passenger and driver side? looking on fcp groton, was unable to find a specific driver side part. Thoughts?

Ben850
Posts: 1613
Joined: 8 September 2011
Year and Model: 1996 850 R Wagon
Location: Michigan
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Post by Ben850 »

The part you referred to as the original is also an aftermarket piece. It is the same as the replacement piece, so it has been changed at least once already.

The OEM original piece is heavier, and uses bolts to hold it to the door. It is also usually painted with the car.
Not a big deal, but the origial pieces are nicer, and smoother operating.

Also, regarding the above post, Both sides are the same, just flipped upside down. I noticed the aftermarket part designates a right and left, but OEM only differs front and rear.
Last edited by Ben850 on 14 Feb 2013, 09:32, edited 2 times in total.
1993 850 GLT , You wouldn't know it.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon White.
1995 T-5R Black. New work in progress.
1998 V70 XC Cross Country White.
1994 850 N/A Wagon Black.
1997 850 Sedan Black.
1996 850R Wagon White.
1997 850 Sedan Red ( not white or black!)

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

Ben850
Posts: 1613
Joined: 8 September 2011
Year and Model: 1996 850 R Wagon
Location: Michigan
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Post by Ben850 »

It is too late for me to add this photo to my other post, but I found this original piece on ebay for $13.
Bolts instead of studs.
Bolts instead of studs.
door check.jpg (8.39 KiB) Viewed 3703 times
Incidentally, I found a salvage piece after buying a replacement from FCP. I installed the salvaged piece and still have the new part as a spare.
1993 850 GLT , You wouldn't know it.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon White.
1995 T-5R Black. New work in progress.
1998 V70 XC Cross Country White.
1994 850 N/A Wagon Black.
1997 850 Sedan Black.
1996 850R Wagon White.
1997 850 Sedan Red ( not white or black!)

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