Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

Sorry to sound like a preacher but haven't you guys heard of electrical tape? Next time just wrap some around the starter terminal and you'll be good to go.

It's just not worth risking with spanner handles being wielded so enthusiastically while bolting our rebuilt ETM back on:)

Nadja sorry I mistook your question. Yes the magnet is a precision fit; it is tight and it needs to be. If there are jagged burrs on the thread after you cut it they will foul so best to use a small file or some sandpaper to remove them.

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[firstv70volvo]

Looking at the voltages measured and how low they are compared to the original voltages, plus the error codes I’ll offer these suggestions. I repaired my ETM using a Vishay sensor and I matched to the original sensor voltage when the throttle plate was completely closed, which is in the 0.59V to 0.65V range of the 3 ETMs I’ve measured. I think the near idle voltage is most important to match and this was done by rotating the sensor while reading the voltage with the throttle plate closed. The 1.18V and 1.22V voltage you’re reading at the power on position is too low in my opinion, it needs to closer to 1.4V. I believe the ECU can compensate for some difference in voltage levels but not this much and why you’re seeing the error code, which probably puts everything into a limp home mode.
With the Sacer sensor I’m wondering if the magnet can be rotated some to raise the voltage to the original voltage value although this will be a trial and error type adjustment since the sensor plate will need to be reinstalled after any change in the magnet position. The voltage level is very sensitive to any rotation in the magnet position so if there is any movement available with the nut loosened you can probably get to the original voltage level. Either the sensor or magnet needs to be rotated to adjust the voltage level and it doesn't look like the Sacer sensor can be rotated.
Also, one other note, the side contact fingers are spot welded and why heating them with a soldering iron won’t separate them.

[nadja]

The process is advancing
The soldering is done correctly and I am ready to seal the contacts with Epoxy.
I bought epoxy which resist up till 82 degrees Celsius (180 Fahrenheit). Will that be sufficient?

Thanks for a quick response if possible.

Clemens-Nadja

[yuckuJackD]

Before filling everything with epoxy, mount the unit on the car and ensure it's OK!!!


My story ended with SUCCESS!!! Particulars later.

Now I'm gonna fly low with car. It's gonna be a night scene from "NFS", you кnow...

p.s. 82 deg I guess is not enough .... Normal operating temperature of the engine is 100 deg +-5. On 104 the fan is ON on high speed.

[nadja]

Hi FirstV70Volvo.

I am in the proces of rebuilding the ETM with a Sacer sensor. My final challenge is to mount the turbo pipe back up the ETM. Any thoughts or ideas on this?
EDIT/ I managed with these instructions: https://www.box.com/shared/cjh7pkl0cs
A Great writup for removing and reinstalling the ETM on a V70

Thanks,
Nadja

Hi Yehuda,

I’ve also spent far too many hours attempting to fix the Magneti Marelli ETM and finally did have some success. I’ve been using the repaired ETM for more than 5,000 miles now. I used an off-the-shelf Vishay throttle position sensor and modified the housing and ETM side plate to make it work.

After studying this ETM for some time now I can say any do-it-yourself fixes have to been done with 100% reliability in mind. This is definitely not a simple do-it-yourself repair job. The ETM is a crucial safety component and while many criticize the original ETM design it does have complete redundancy with two independent throttle position sensors. From what I’ve read if one sensor signal is lost there will be reduced performance but if both throttle position sensors signals are lost or corrupted the throttle drive motor shuts down completely and there is very limited power (fast idle) and no throttle control.

Replacing the original sensors with a non-contact type does improve the reliability of the sensor a great deal because there’s nothing to wear but if the non-contact electronic sensor were to fail it would be the equivalent of having no valid throttle position signal and the throttle drive motor would shut down. From what I’ve learned and what I’ve seen with other non-contact sensor repairs, the sensor can only be placed on the side opposite the drive motor due to magnetic interference of the motor affecting the sensor . One non-contact sensor can have dual outputs and dual sensors in one package to improve reliability but it’s still not full redundancy with a single power source and wiring. My opinion (for what it’s worth) is a high quality automotive grade non-contact electronic sensor (like the Vishay sensor) is as reliable as all the other electronics in the ETM, which also doesn’t have full redundancy. Let us know how things go when you get the new Sacer parts. If you have any questions with the repair I may be able to help with some aspects of it so let me know.

Vishay Sensor Retrofit.jpg

[yuckuJackD]

Well the euphoria is gone and now i'm able to tell you, guys what is may expirience so far.
1. Don't heat the Throttle body. Yes, in the engine compartment is hot, maybe 100deg celsius, but when you solder you apply at least 250 deg, and that's enought to kill the electronics if you heat the pins continuously. Just cut off a millimeter or two of the pins for the sensor. Be safe.
2. Disconnect the car battery. Well we all know that, but sometimes we don't do it. The place we are working keep a hidden risk of making a short, because the starter motor "+" terminal is on the way of your tools while removing/placing the 4 bolts that keep the throttle in place.
3.(for SACER repair) Cut the shaft as short as possible. The cut should be just where the carving ends. For convenience you may use a dremel tool. Cut a little by little. Allow the shaft to cool down. I did this in 4 cut/cool cycles. In case you don't have a dremel tool you'll need to remove the opposite sensor cap so that you could remove the shaft and make the cut in some old fashioned way. When doing that (removing the opposite sensor cap) you should be aware of the two wires giving power to the el. motor. (see pictures and posts above)
4. Test, match voltages, test and once again test. Hint: when placing the magnet to the shaft don't tight it too much - just enought to secure it. Then place the Sacer's cap. Bend a bit the Sacer's pins so that they make contact to the pins to the body. Don't hurry to solder. Mount the throttle top the car and test it. Measure the voltages and if there is difference between the sacer's and original sensor voltage you'll need to match them. That's why I told you not to hurry with soldering. You should be noticed that when placing the magnet to the shaft there is a degree or so possibility to rotate. This single degree is giving you about 0.1V difference in measurment. In case it's not enought for matching you should make a perpendicular cut to the shaft so that you could mount the magnet in propper rotation position.



When you are sure all voltages are fine, mount the throttle unit to the car and test it's propper behavior. If everything is good the car will start propper, idle propper for a couple seconds then for another couple of seconds will idle in high rpm (1100-1200) and idle proper. Make a test run. Take it easy - you didn't solder the pins yet, so no sharp movements (yes, I know you want to hit the gas to the max but don't). Hopefully everything is fine.
5. When soldering allow the pins to cool.. The reason is the same as in point 1.
6. Test, test and test.. Now is the time to hit the gas. Take the breath of the car. You want it and the car want's it too, trust me Why testing? To be sure all soldering are, behavior is fine, in two words - the job is done proper. You could (I'm gonna) do this testing a couple of days, because once you fill everithing with epoxy any correction will force you to remove that epoxy first, you know.
7. Smile, you just saved 1000 (or more) bucs.

[precopster]

Yucka this could be kind of a precedent with regard to ETM repair. Guess I was lucky with my own V70 NA early this year. No codes or problems and I've repaired another 2 of them the same way. Is that play in the shaft enough to throw a spanner in the works that much? Would be very interested to see those voltages.

Interesting thing about different cars is that some have a resting angle of say 24 degrees and some have 17 degrees (S80T6) and some have 31 degrees. Wouldn't this then throw the voltages to totally different starting values, depending on the starting or resting angle of the throttle plate and car in question?

Anyway congrats on the winning prize of a running car; guess that's what this forum is all about

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[yuckuJackD]

About the resting angle: I heard about this for first from you now, but let me say something that I've tought is strange:
When ign ON the throttle body goes to off position for a couple of secs right? I've measured something about 0.75V, but if I move the plate by hand to it's real off position (errrrr max closed possible) so then I was able to measure 0.65V or so. So I guess that the metal body and the el. magnet is the same for all units, but the difference is in the electronics, sensors and ... not sure but according to my expirience, in the shaft, or especialy in the vertical cut for the sensors.

Oh yes - thats exactly the forums are made. You helped me, and while I was learning I left posts which will remain for somebody after me to help him, not to do my mistakes.

p.s. On e-bay there are two people selling Sacer TPS. One is from Israel - that's Yehuda, other is from United States. Is that you?
Why I'm asking - soon there will be one more selling them - me (I got only 1 remain, other 3 found their owners allready ). We are all from different continents - that's cool. Just asking for fair play - same price from all 3 of us. Is that OK?

[nadja]

Hi YuckuJackD, Precopster and other forum members.
No luck it seems.
I mounted the ETM with the SACER and test drove it. I noticed a bit vibrating that I did not have before, I took it for a couple of kilometers, stopped the engine, waited a while, started the engine, took some highway kilometers and finally accelerated to 5500 RPM.... And there is when it went wrong! The engine stalled. While restarting, and pushing the accelerator, the rates per minute slowly crawled up and fell back again. When pushing it in gear, the car stalls.
Electronic message is Engine service urgent.
Any insights? The car is now 4 km from my home and I am planning to go down there this afternoon to see what I can do.
My thought is that the valve in the ETM got wide ope while accelerating and might got stuck wide open. Due to removing the bolt to install the magnet, I had to put a certain amount of pressure and the valve did not go back automatically at that moment....

Thanks for any input !
Nadja

[yuckuJackD]

Added the promised picture in the last post of page 4.

Hi nadq. Read carefully my post (the last one in page 4). Ensure you do all the thing propper.
Why did you tight the nut applying presure to the plate, but not to find out a way to make it not to move? Ok what's done is done, now you could try to undo the two torx srews securing the plate to the shaft and tight them again very careful making sure the plate is moving freely without touching the aluminium body.
Did you match the voltages from the Sacer's sensor and from the original one? I guess not, and also I gues that sacer is giving you a bit higher measurements and thats why your idle is high rpm and when hit the pedal to 5500 rpm the unit went to limp. It just have "saw" 4.8-4.9V wich is out of range... just thinking you know.
keep us informed, so that we could be in help.
GOOD LUCK

p.s. Do you use Skype? Mine is Viliiobg. Feel free to add me for assistance.
It's late here in BG (01:00 at night) so I'll be on the PC just for a couple of minutes and then go to bed. So hurry, or leave for tomorow.