Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[nadja]

Hi YuckuJackd
Thanks for the quick reply.
According to Yehuda, it is quit a straight forward job and he never told me to measure. I do have a digital Multi meter to read voltage, amperage and Ohms , but I would not know how to measure the ETM.
Are there any instructions on the forum?
I did measure if the contacts were soldered correctly (yes, they are soldered already...)

I will go down to the Volvo in 15 minutes and will try to get the beast back in front of the door.

Keep you posted...

[yuckuJackD]

OK I guess you''ll be reading this when i'm dreaming sth near to the wife and the kid but ...
What we measure:

Direct link
Put your multimeter to reading 20V straight. Secure the black handle (hell i don't know the term in english) somewhere to the car's body (GND). Turn the кey to position "II" so that the unit got a power and measure the voltages on pins given in the picture.
Look my first measurements:

This is not good. Sacer was giving me 0.2V less, and the car was in limp home all the time.
For more info, find the post where I explain what "full close" "Normal off" and "full open means".
Good Luck


errrr I got a feeling you did NOT read the whole topic from the begining to the end, am I right? If yes, just do it. You won't loose so much time but I'm pretty sure you'll got answers at lest for the half of you questions (like what, how and why to measure).

[precopster]

Nadja, Yehuda and others like me were lucky with their ETMs. (in some cases unlucky as I've had one fail after soldering)

It's Yucka's knowledge and new experience that is going to help people when THINGS GO WRONG. '

Just remember that we (on Matthews) and Yucka (on Bulgarian Forum) were the first guys do EVEN TRY fitting a Sacer sensor to these ETMs. The sensors have only been available for a short time so this is all pioneering stuff.

Get the car back and try Yucka's suggestions. A scan is probably essential unless you can cut the shaft vertically and change the magnet angle.

I think that the instructions for selling these should be upgraded, also....too many people who have never soldered are going to burn their boards or damage the housing.

[yuckuJackD]

offtopic:
My nickname is comming from "whisky" which wrote in cyrilic looks like this: "уиски", but it's hard to use cyrilic simbols for international nickname so I write it with latin in way to look just like it looks in cyrilic - yucku.
JackD - well we all know Jack, right

[nadja]

It looks like everything works fine now. Maybe we can conclude that V70's work pretty flawless with the Sacer?
I started to dis assemble the whole lot and.... there it was, a disconnected flexible hose....., The one that is connected to the hard plastic one and it was disconnected next to the radiator. I think due to manipulation of the hard plastic hose, as I never unscrewed this part. Anyway Car is running as a sunshine again
Will test drive a couple of days more before sealing it of. And I will measure and put it on the forum

Cheers JackD

Nadja (baccardi:-)

[precopster]

Off topic: Ok, Jack it is then!! BTW you can all call me Mike

On topic: The term for the metal part of the lead from mutimeter is PROBE but good try anyway

BLOWN OFF HOSE !??! Haha you had us all thinking the worst, good stuff now that it works.

[nadja]

@ Mike: Yes I understand this is pioneering and if there is anything that adds to helping others, it is a win win for the forum members asking questions and receiving answers and adding experiences. I am soo glad with guys like you, Yeduha, Yucku Jack and others, sticking their neck out to try and not taking it for granted that Volvo dealers are charging 1300 dollars to replace the Faulty Throttle Body after their 10 years warranty is over. My dealer said it was just bad luck...

Thanks again for the support It looks like you guys helped me save 1100 dollars!

[yuckuJackD]

I think that the instructions for selling these should be upgraded, also....too many people who have never soldered are going to burn their boards or damage the housing.

in fact the throttle body that i tried first is the one i'm using now. The overheating seems not been the deal, but the measurements. Just to mention...

Chronology:
Before 3 years I bought the car.
A year latter it become giving symptoms of failing ETM. By that moment I didn't know that the throttle may be the problem. (In S80's room there is topic started by me, you could see)
A year before today The throttle unit gave up. Bought another one second hand.
I started to read about these units. Saw this topic, saw the Vershay method too, but I was thinking i'll never fell in that as i got a "new" unit.
5-6 months ago started the symptoms of failing ETM again. I thought: No it's not the ETM, man, it's sth different. Started to test. Swap some parts with friends who owned S80's and S60's. MAF, MASS, Injectors, removed the CAT, accelerator pedal, brake pedal switches. Meanwhile I spend alot of money to read the codes (here we pay everytime for reading them 10-40 USD according the shop you go). I made some calculations and hmmm "I was always have VOLVO, and well let's be honest - I WILL no matter what, always have a VOLVO". So why don't I bay a DiCE scan tool (The special tool used by VOLVO dealers). I'll use it at least till 2020. Why - the cars that go out of the factory are still scanned whith tis tool. I could be able to by a 2012 Volvo at least when it is 5 years old + minimum 3 years in my hands .... So I got the DiCE.
Scanned the car many times, and I was sure the second TPS if giving up soon. I send the first (original) TPS to a friend from BG forum which is specialist in electronics. He played with it and said: I found a factory to produce the resistance films, but they want me to order 1000 of them to start the production line. It's just not cost effective. Find another way to fix them. I'm interested, too..
I found that way - Sacer. It was the little light in the end of the tunnel. I got it with two hands. Saccer's worker told me I have to order min 5 units. Hell I need just one, or maybe two (for the other throttle). The same friend agreed to make collective order with me. 2 for me and 3 for him.
And here I am.

First shot. The Throttle i bought second hand. I thought i was overheated it, so I asked my friend to send me back my original throttle back, so that I could do the repair on it.
Second shot. I'll never know whether it was a sucsess or not. I made it short with the starter motor harness and killed it. Luckily the Sacer sensor was fine.
Third shot. i got a unit for which I was told is in good shape but the sensors are gone. COOL that's exactly what I need. payed 25 EUR for it. It came to me. Oh no - it's plate was almost stuck. It seems that it has a mechanic problems. OK, i'll fix it. And I did, but when putted the sacer sensor on it and plug it to car I saw Codes which clearly told me this unit had electronic problem too. Too bad.
3 unit's and no sucsess. My wife was just waiting to hit me with sth. We spent alot of money for that car...
Ok, one more shot. I read the topic from the begining for ... 5-st or 6-th time. Mine posts too. Then i saw one my old idea during the first install. Sacer was giving me wrong measurements - why? Maybe because the part number is not given in he sacer's manual. Hmmm but why? If I'm a manufacturer i would like to place my product in the most wild range of users. In our case all Throttles from 99 to 2001, but they don't. They say they cover just a couple of part numbers, but not all of them. Let's think about it - there should be a reason, and most likely is because there is difference. Well in front of me the was 3 units disassembled. One with "proper" part number and 2 with different. But they look the same, god d**. Maybe the sensors are made different. It's a manufacturer trick to avoid duplicates from other manufacturers. And they keep these small changes in secret. (I know that because i'm an engeneer designer). So if it was me what should a do? I should change the most easy thing - the angle of the vertical cut of the shaft + software change to read that change proper. Every other thing would make the production more expensive, but this change wouldn't cost me anything.
So then if I'm right the Sacer sensor should be rotated. But it couldn't. All I can rotate is the magnet. Lets play with it. What else could I loose other than the anger of my wife...
The other stuff I allready told you. played with the magnet, match the voltages and HIT THE GAAASSSSSSSSSS. Hell i love this car (otherwise ot would be sold for junk).

If a moderator decide this post is off topic - OK, just delete it.

[yuckuJackD]

Thanks again for the support It looks like you guys helped me save 1100 dollars!

Did we?
I mean did you fix it?

p.s. Oh I saw you post. I'm happy for you. Everithing is good when it ends good.

[precopster]

Thanks again for the support It looks like you guys helped me save 1100 dollars!

Did we?
I mean did you fix it?

p.s. Oh I saw you post. I'm happy for you. Everithing is good when it ends good.

Hey another day, another happy forum member

Jack saw your LITTLE editorial and I must say, good going to work this out. I think that's why some ETMs can be swapped to other cars with no reload and some can't. There won't be more than say 2 degree variance in the cut at the factory but when we find a used one from another car and it's been calibrated its just luck to find one with the same angle!!

Maybe that's why my '99 NA V70 took one straight from a S80T6 without any programming needed. So what codes are there when the cut and voltages don't match?

Can you tell me the Vida codes you saw when this happened to you? Then I'll know what to spot, of course better to just do the vertical cut, match the voltages and be done with it.