Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[yuckuJackD]

Can you tell me the Vida codes you saw when this happened to you? Then I'll know what to spot, of course better to just do the vertical cut, match the voltages and be done with it.

Well I'm a little confused in what situation what codes I had but....
1. First shot. A unit with voltages out of range (errrr 0.2V lower than original):
ECM-903F Throttke position (TP) - Signal too low
ECM-9150 Throttke position (TP) - Sensor 1 - Faulty signal
ECM-9160 Throttke position (TP) - Sensor 2 - Faulty signal
ECM-91B7 Throttke position (TP) - Faulty position

2. Secound Shot - killed/shorted ETM.
ECM-903F Throttke position (TP) - Signal missing
ECM-9190 Throttke position (TP) - Faulty current
ECM-91A7 Throttke position (TP) - Faulty control

3. Third shot - well it seems I didn't make a screenshot - sorry. By memory the codes was similar as with the kiiled by me ETM. i got screenshot only of the Graphic display with checked TPS1; TPS2 and Accelerator pedal position (masured value, not the electronic).

p.s. Today i got MIL on DIM but I'm too lazy to go down to the car to check it out. I guess I know why.... I'm on LPG aftermarket fit, and the gasoline injectors are becoming clogged little by little. When starting the car it starts on gasoline, wait to warm till 50 deg C and then switch to LPG. This morning the engine was working bad while heating, so i guess i got Missfire 5-th or 6-th cylinder stored. However, i belive the MIL is not because of the ETM ... or at least I hope so

[precopster]

Well the codes on situation 1 seem to match one of the rebuilds I tried on an NA V70 a couple of months ago but it wasn't the car's matching ETM but one from eBay. The client was a auto electrician and I think he bought another one. He had a reload tool made by Autoland called Vedis II (a very nice diagnostic tool also) Well if what you're saying works for all scenarios anyone can purchase a used ETM and even if the ETM doesn't work (it would to give the code combination as above) you could fit the Sacer sensor and match the correct voltages (not match them on a used one from eBay which gives codes) but program in the correct voltages by changing magnet angle and voila!! No need for dealer reload!!

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[yuckuJackD]

It would be too good to be truth ...
My thought was that Sacer's sensor could be able to replace any sensor in any Magneti Marelli TPS 99-2002 (latter I'll tell something funny about the brand). But! If the throttle body is not suitable for your car you'll need the reload anyway.

Interesting - how the hell this Vedis II is able to connect the VOLVO database and download the SW.

The funny thing about Magneti Marelli. It sounds like Magnet, right? But why the hell they don't use it haha, and one more: in Bulgarian there is a word wich transcription is "Umreli". It means died. So together "magnets died" In bulgarian forum when meaning somebody's throttle is going bad it's just enought to say "It's the Magneti Umreli, man" and everybody knows what that means

[precopster]

Well there are only 2 different throttle bodies made now. The V 70/S60 covering 01-02 (36001821) naturally aspirated and the rest of them with 36001822 .

The Autoland Vedis II only sets up new throttle bodies (my friend has one and he showed me the menus which handle almost every car) I rebuilt the same throttle body as Yehuda's for him on a '01 NA V70 without calibrating the voltages and it gave the same codes as scenario 1. I spoke to him today and he took it to a Volvo dealer for reload but he said even after reload the gearchanges felt awkward so he bought a new one.
I'm going to have him return it and I'll check those voltages and report back here.

I think the reload thing specific to VIN is a farce made up by Volvo to keep business. The Autoland Vedis II can initialise new ETMs no problem but you need to put in engine type, trans type, year and aspiration before it will send the file.

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[yuckuJackD]

Well my idea is that when you/me/they do a Sacer's sensor replacement usually we use our old throttle which was working on the car. So No Reload would be needed.
I think it's necessary to add a point in instruction manual "Verify the match of measurements" or something like this, where to be described what, how and why to measure. Let's think about this: in instructions is mentioned that this repair IS NOT for everyone, right. So what's the problem just to add a single line as person who is able to solder with proper unit probably is able to measure voltages between 0.5-5.0 ...

[frogpoop]

hi all,
i just purchased a Sacer TPS to fix the ETM on a 00 V70. Thanks for all the pictures and descriptions on this process. I have a question about the soldering:
- on the side with 5 prongs, do i leave the old tps with 5 prong (10 total from circuit board and tps) together and just adding the wire from the new sacer tps to prong #2?
- on the side with 3 prongs, do i solder the 3 prongs from the new Sacer TPS to the existing 3 prongs from the circuit board?

thanks in advance for your help!

[precopster]

Hi there. Look at page 2 there's a pretty good close up of what to do with the 5 prong side. Disconnect lead 2 from the old sensor and run the black lead to the board input for this side. This replaces input from the old sensor from this side. You can see in my pic that I used a cut drinking straw to make sure that there is no contact from the old sensor.

The advice I can give you is to read this thread over and over before starting. It pretty much explains what can go wrong and how to voltage measure prior to installation. Do the voltage test BEFORE removing the old sensor or making any changes. Do this by reconnecting to the loom after you've scraped back the putty. After you fit tbe new sensor take your time and test voltages before sealing the board or fitting it to the intake manifold. You may need to make vertical cuts to the shaft as in Jack's case.

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[yuckuJackD]

I have nothing to add exept: GOOD LUCK!!!

[frogpoop]

thanks precopster/yucku. I can see on page two that only the second prong (of the 5) is separated. and the lead from the sacer tps is soldered there. i assume the other 4 are touching/soldered. mine don't seem to be connected very well, so i may solder them back together.

for the other side, where the sacer tps will go, i can't see from your picture if the 3 gold prongs from the sacer tps are soldered to the 3 original prongs from the circuit board. can you confirm what should happen here? i haven't received the new tps yet, but i want to have an understanding of the process.

please forgive my terminology, im sure 'prong' is not the correct name. hopefully you get the idea.

[precopster]

So does this mean that you've already disconnected all the leads on the 5 terminal side? If so did you read about how you shouldn't really touch this side at all? Way too many pics on this thread by first timers botching it up; no offense to those trying but as a DIY resource it's a little confusing for some.

The only angle sensor to be fully disconnected and removed is the 3 terminal side; again pretty good pics on my thread on pg 2.




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