Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Post by **yuckuJackD** » 09 Sep 2012, 06:42

frogpoop, mate, Why don't you just read all 6 pages of this topic, and see/download all the pictures. You won't loose more than and hour, but you'll be prepared for any situation that could happen during this repair. Although it's not one of the easiest DIY jobs...

ecuengineer · Post by **ecuengineer** » 16 Sep 2012, 05:39

Jack/Mike,
My name is Jason from North Carolina, USA. I have been reading posts this morning for approx. 3.5 hrs, I feel like I know you guys already; but before this is all over with I may know you better. 2001 Volvo V70 still with white sticker quit on my wife yesterday (while I was 3 miles in the woods camping); and ruined my camping trip *bummer* I work as Engineering Manager at a small CNC Machine/Fabrication shop so I am going to attempt the refurbish myself (feeling confident at the moment)! But before I get too far, if somebody can answer a couple of questions I would appreciate it.
1- Is there any way to get the car out of limp mode? (It is appox. 2 hours from home)
2- Does it hurt to drive it long distance in limp mode? (approx. 100 miles)
3- Does anybody still have one of the leftover Sacer units for sale? (seen a few on ebay-not sure whose is whose?)

ps- I will be willing to document and post the entire process (if you want)!
Thanks for your help,
Jason

Post by **precopster** » 16 Sep 2012, 06:29

Ok so if your ETM is the culprit there are a couple of things you can do. First do you have ETS light and codes relating to throttle position sensors? Second do you have a code clearer? If not see below.

Remove the ETM and unscrew the little torx screws on each end of the cap only a little-perhaps 3 turns or enough to allow you to squeeze some zip tie between the end caps and the aluminium base. This allows the contact strip to be wiped at a point not normally wiped. It may get you home.

If yours is a non-turbo quite easy as in the YouTube video:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 12&t=51476

If the above mod has worked you'll be able to cycle the car 3 times and on the fourth they will become stored codes.

ecuengineer · Post by **ecuengineer** » 16 Sep 2012, 06:50

Thanks for the quick reply.
Yes there were 2 codes that came up (took the car to autozone) don't remember the numbers but one was TPS, so I knew from past research exactly what it was (or so I assume). I see what your saying about spacing the end cap out; thickness of a ziptie would be approx. 1mm or so. Correct? When this is done, your saying cycle the car 3 times; do you mean start it and cut it off? Will this take it from limp mode?

Post by **precopster** » 16 Sep 2012, 07:06

That's right start it and rev to 1,500 rpm for 20 secs (if this is possible) then allow to idle for 10 secs then shut down.

Do it 3 times. On the 4th if the film has been moved sufficiently on the side with worn film the codes will disappear (like magic)
1mm ought to do it
Good luck ..

If you need a Sacer sensor I have a spare I'm not using right now. Yehuda is the guy selling from Israel.

ecuengineer · Post by **ecuengineer** » 16 Sep 2012, 07:49

I saw the one on ebay from Israel, and you are in australia right?
There is also a guy from California, and one from Illonois.
I don't know what shipping around the world costs, it would probably be cost effective for me to get one of the two from the states.
I intend on trying the quick fix later today, it is currently stranded about an hour from where my parents live (current location); i'm going to trailer it back here to work on it, if the fix works I am driving back home (2 more hours).
Then the repair IS ON!!
However, if I can't get the quick fix to work, I will probably just buy one of the XeModeX one's just so I can do a simple swap.
I don't mind "tinkering" when it is at my house with my tools, but when you have other people involved it can sometimes be...overwhelming.
I will keep you informed

ecuengineer · Post by **ecuengineer** » 16 Sep 2012, 14:21

Well...not an easy fix.
First of all, it would not go on the trailer (without bottoming out).
Found out it was a blown fuse (ETM #7) replaced, after acceleration, blew another.
I spaced the correct end out as you had talked about with a ziptie, blew another.
As bad as I would love to...tinker and fix it while also saving a couple hundred bucks, I think I'm going with the XeModeX.
It is just too easy to spend the $500 and hopefully bolt on a unit that will start working imediatly and help me get it back home.
Inless you have some doubts that maybe it's something else.

Post by **precopster** » 16 Sep 2012, 15:59

It was both ends you would need to space out as we are still running both outputs from your unit.

No loss in your case as I believe that your board is fried so no easy answer other than replacement.

Be sure to check both earths at the block close to the oil pressure switch for corrosion and be sure your alternator is producing clean DC power. There are tests using AC range on a meter for testing purity of DC voltage. Do some research. You don't want to damage another expensive unit with an unclean power source.

Post by **yuckuJackD** » 16 Sep 2012, 16:10

I got one Sacer sensor for sell, too. I'm just not listed it anywhere...
It could be a good deal for EU people as there will not be any import taxes form BG (part of EU)

ecuengineer · Post by **ecuengineer** » 16 Sep 2012, 19:07

Alright, I've got a few minutes before bedtime that I can explain the "whole" story so that you guys might can get a better snapshot of what is going on.

Bought the car about 6mos ago 2001 V70 with about 115K on it.
Noticed soon after that at idle the tach would go up and down; not much but just enough to aggrivate you.
So, did some research, learned all about the ETM problems and saw that mine was still with the white label

I then cleaned it real good, it fixed the idle problem and has been running good for 3-4 mos no problem.
Just earlier this week I was driving it and thought I felt the transmission slip; but now I'm thinking it was ETM failure signs.
Told my wife to be on the lookout for this as she is the daily driver in it. She said she felt it once more on Friday.
Friday we drove about 100 miles to what was supposed to be a father/son camping and mother/daughter shopping weekend.
Got a call Sat afternoon saying that she was stranded on the side of the road, (while I and my 2yr old son were about 2 miles into the woods).
Her definition of what happened= "Driving down highway and went to pull out to pass a car, when all of a sudden the car started jerking erratically and coasted to the shoulder." She said that she could crink the car but at idle it was real shakey and jerkey, didn't want to drive it so she called me.
When I arrived at the scene, I crank it and at idle (approx. 1000) it was shaking like crazy. Like it was trying to run on 3 cylinders or something.
I then noticed that it was in limp mode because it would not accelerate correctly and not get past about 35mph.
I "limped" to the nearest autozone where they read 2 codes. One was throttle position sensor, the other I forgot and lost the paper. It was similar though.
From there I limped back to my sister/laws house where it still sits; 2 hours away from home.
I went today to hopefully "rig" it back working. After a little inspection, I saw that the ETM fuse was blown. I put in a new fuse and it ran just fine. I thought maybe it was just a fuse; not so lucky. Test drive and about 1 minute into it (during acceleration) it blows another fuse. When running with a blown fuse is exactly like running with the ETM plug unplugged; I know because I forgot to plug it in one time, and it did the exact same jerky behavior. So, why do you think the bard might be fried? I can't test anything right now. The next time I intend on going to the car, I will have a working ETM in hand. Gas will end up costing more than the problem. So, any more thoughts?

Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Re: Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures