Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Post by **precopster** » 16 Sep 2012, 21:43

To blow a 10A fuse the circuit is drawing a lot more than the safety limit for this circuit. Typically a circuit with a 10A fuse will draw 2-3Amps maximum. A damaged film should not cause this to happen unless it's contaminated with a foreign substance. The only other suspect is the flap motor has failed (in this case you'll require another ETM body even if the board is OK as the armature is built into the casing.

Last thing to check is ease of operation of the throttle flap by hand while the unit is unplugged. Does it bind? If so find out why and remove the obstruction.
Failing this I don't see a way out without replacement.

ecuengineer · Post by **ecuengineer** » 17 Sep 2012, 10:19

Well, I just sent my ETM off this morning to Xemodex. They said that it souned like the motor had a short in it that was causing the fuses to blow. So, your right, doesn't sound like the wear strip at all. I guess I'll never have to deal with that, since it will be overhauled with the manetic sensor.
I will have it back in 3 days minus $578; hope it works.
Let you know. Thanks for your help anyways, Jason.

Post by **precopster** » 17 Sep 2012, 14:50

You're welcome. BTW shorts in the motor are rare; you were unlucky statistically speaking. Hope it turns out OK. Keep us all posted of your progress.

RuiG · Post by **RuiG** » 25 Sep 2012, 06:17

I guys, I am from Portugal and received from Yeuda(thanks), the Sacer. I have a S80 2.0Turbo.

The engine was running uncertain and the engine light was flashing. Took for a mechanic to read codes and gives hard etm. we cleaned it and got a little better but worse as past the time.

I have followed the instructions for mounting sacer and without any measuring install all for a luck shot.
Started the engine and it work well when is was cold, when the rpm come to 700, it sounds that some thing in the engine was beating. And later the light turn on. Go for a ride and the car was respond hesitating. at lower rpm.

After dissemble all took this measures Original closed: o,63 Normal: 1,46 Open: 4,63 The sacer: 0,59 : 1,39 : 4,52 The point of sacer have same value. Then I have open sacer and cut from the plastic instead of the shaft. Adjust for several times and the better values i got was Original closed: o,63 Normal: 1,46 Open: 4,63 The sacer: 0,7 : 1,45 : 4,63. So I assemble all and start the engine witch was as before.

Any suggestion ?
Thanks in Advance
Rui

Post by **precopster** » 26 Sep 2012, 08:23

Can you give a list of codes exactly as the mechanic read them?

It may not be the TPS section of the ETM at all. Lots of other faults on these units. I just repaired an S80T6 (2.

ETM for a guy who poured enough epoxy down the 3 terminal solder joints that it went behind the return spring. It's measure on idle was 1.48volts with the Sacer. I wasn't able to measure the original sensor as it was sent to me with a Sacer (that was full of epoxy)

RMSDave · Post by **RMSDave** » 26 Sep 2012, 20:52

First of all, thanks to all of you who posted on this topic. You've been very helpful. I've read all the information, but would like clarification on the connections of the new sensor. Do the three prongs of the Sacer unit get soldered to the corresponding prongs protruding out of the ETM? One photo appears to have wires attached to the two outside ones, which creates a question in my mind.

Post by **precopster** » 27 Sep 2012, 03:34

RMSDave wrote:First of all, thanks to all of you who posted on this topic. You've been very helpful. I've read all the information, but would like clarification on the connections of the new sensor. Do the three prongs of the Sacer unit get soldered to the corresponding prongs protruding out of the ETM? One photo appears to have wires attached to the two outside ones, which creates a question in my mind.

No disrespect to the guys who have posted on this topic but my post on 6th April 2012 shows the terminals exactly as they are meant to be attacked. The TPS which has the bulbous protrusion should not be removed, it should just have the fourth terminal separated to take the black lead from the new Sacer sensor. Hope this helps.

However I must stress that no sensor should be removed until voltages from the original sensor are taken so that they can be matched by angle cutting the shaft or the magnet as per Jack's (Yucka) post.

JosephVelder · Post by **JosephVelder** » 27 Sep 2012, 12:27

Hey guys, Thanks to Matt I now am knee deep into changing out this TPS for a Sacer unit.
So far so good except when I removed the throttle body I noticed that the flapper is not fully closed, is it supposed to be fully closed when it is at rest?

do I fix it?
how do I fix this?
is it a big deal?

Post by **precopster** » 27 Sep 2012, 13:00

Nothing to fix. The throttle plate has a resting angle of around 5 degrees. Keep it up and you'll have it done soon. Did you take voltages prior to cap removal?

JosephVelder · Post by **JosephVelder** » 27 Sep 2012, 13:13

I'm skipping the whole voltage thing, I figured if it doesn't work I'll cave in and buy a xemodex unit.

Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Re: Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures