1999 V70 Starts then dies Immediately

moondust · Post by **moondust** » 15 Sep 2012, 13:10

Hi,

I have a 2000 S70 and I am having the problems described. I first ran into this problem a few years back and the dealer found the problem with the antenna ring and replaced it. It started happening again last year and I have had the ring, relay and cam shaft sensor replaced but it still happens from time to time. I also left the car with the dealer for a couple of days for them to test start/restart and even used the car for trips but the start/die did not happen. The hope was that when it dies, they can pull a code.

The dealer noted that the key has a non-replaceable battery which is charged when in the ignition. They said it could be the battery in the key that is an issue. Since my visit with the dealer, the car ran fine for about 6-8 weeks with 5-10 engine starts per day. It started acting up a few days ago with the same key. So, I started using another key but the car stalled after a couple of days. Considering that both keys are about 10 years old with the difference of one key being used more than the other, hence better charged.

Is there is chance that it is the battery in the key?

Note that the sequence is: start, die, restart, good with Key #1. When I tried key #2, I ran into the problem after a couple of days of use. This time though, it died immediately and I tried restarting three times. So, I switched key and it started immediately. When I went back to key #2, it worked fine again.

There has been a lot of good discussion about the about the different weak points but there has been no mention of the the key/battery problem as noted by the dealer.

I would appreciate your expert opinions.

Thanks.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 15 Sep 2012, 13:55

moondust wrote:
The dealer noted that the key has a non-replaceable battery which is charged when in the ignition. They said it could be the battery in the key that is an issue. Since my visit with the dealer, the car ran fine for about 6-8 weeks with 5-10 engine starts per day. It started acting up a few days ago with the same key. So, I started using another key but the car stalled after a couple of days. Considering that both keys are about 10 years old with the difference of one key being used more than the other, hence better charged.

Is there is chance that it is the battery in the key?

Note that the sequence is: start, die, restart, good with Key #1. When I tried key #2, I ran into the problem after a couple of days of use. This time though, it died immediately and I tried restarting three times. So, I switched key and it started immediately. When I went back to key #2, it worked fine again.

There has been a lot of good discussion about the about the different weak points but there has been no mention of the the key/battery problem as noted by the dealer.

That's because your dealer is makin' stuff up...
The transponder in the key is totally passive.
It's very similar to RFID. No batteries required.
My knee jerk suggestion?
Find someone else to work on your car.

My other suggestion, be sure you have no more
than one transponder equipped key on your ring.
Multiple transponder chips in close proximity to
the antenna ring can confuse the system.

Do you still run the original fuel pump relay?
Any codes? Any other issues with the car?

moondust · Post by **moondust** » 15 Sep 2012, 15:20

Thanks for your feedback.

What the dealer said did not make sense. I also thought it is like an RFID which does not need a power source.

We do not have other keys with transponder chip near the key ring when we have this problem. I do have the other key in my pocket but my wife runs into this problem when I am not in the car.

The fuel pump relay was replaced by a shop that works on Volvo. We started with the ring, then the fuel pump relay, and then the cam shaft sensor. When the problem continued, I decided to give the dealer a try.

So far, we have been able to get the engine going with one restart, except for yesterday when three restart did not work. I then went for the other key. I have also heard solutions like using the remote to lock/unlock the door several times to get out of the code sync problem.

There is always a chance that the computer and key ring may not get in sync but is it likely to happen? In other words, the car would have to be towed. I do not know whether I should let my wife continue driving at the risk of the engine not starting.

Your advice for next steps and opinion on risk would be really appreciated.

Thanks.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 15 Sep 2012, 15:51

There are are enough variables involved here that getting it in
to an experienced mechanic may be your best bet at this point.
Getting stranded is never much fun...

I would suggest spending a little research time on the shops in
your area and find a good independent operation that has a solid
reputation with this generation of Volvo's. Be sure they're up on
'99-'00 models. Seems like I heard about someone in Berkeley,
but it's been a while and shops are always changing .

moondust · Post by **moondust** » 03 Oct 2012, 23:20

It happened twice in the last couple of days after two weeks of no issue.

I would appreciate any pointers to an experienced mechanic in this type of problems in the SFO bay area?

Thanks in advance for your help.

moondust · Post by **moondust** » 04 Oct 2012, 21:28

The can ran fine for about two weeks but the problem occurred the last four days, about one or twice a day.

I would appreciate any pointers to a food mechanic in the SFO bay area.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Moondust

moondust · Post by **moondust** » 04 Oct 2012, 21:30

The car ran fine for two weeks but the problem started again in the last few days - about one or twice a day.

I would appreciate pointers to a good mechanic in the SFO bay area.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Moondust

PapaHepcat · Post by **PapaHepcat** » 18 Apr 2015, 18:05

I know this is an old thread, but for anyone else who might come along later: I just wanted to add my chips to the fuel pump relay column. No one locally has one, so I'll jumper it for now till the part comes in.

I thought I heard the fuel pump running after I switched it off when testing, so I'll prob just pull the jumper whenever I'm stopped.

Post by **atucker1** » 18 Apr 2015, 22:01

If you don't want to use the paper clip, a junkyard will have the relay. My local yard charged $4.

PapaHepcat · Post by **PapaHepcat** » 23 Apr 2015, 22:54

In the end, laziness won out and I left the jumper in there till the replacement relay showed up. All is well.

1999 V70 Starts then dies Immediately

Re: 1999 V70 Starts then dies Immediately