Idling issues, checked MAF etc

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 07 Oct 2012, 12:09

So I can move this discussion to a PCV forum but, anyone have a pcv kit that they like? Looking at IPD right now. Any thoughts?

Post by **regent** » 07 Oct 2012, 15:54

Avoid URO hoses.

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 08 Oct 2012, 10:11

Yeah, I will do that. I think my Stylin blue vacuum line kit included the hoses I need to do the PCV repair. At this point I will probably just try to route a line from the PCV valve over the manifold and connect it to the other side. This should allow me to drive my car. I will maybe try to piece together the supplies needed to do a full pcv system replacement in the future. Thanks again for your help. Next project; front suspension.

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 08 Oct 2012, 23:19

So as soon as you mention the next project with dreams of solving your current problem you should know it won't work. So this evening I pulled off the vacuum lines from the side of the manifold and the pcv valve (or flame trap) and just routed a new line over the manifold. So first off the valve didn't really sit well any more. In fact when I notice that the vacuum line was broke the valve was half out. So hooked everything back up and started the car up and it was very steady (cleaning the IAC really helped) but for the first time I heard a loud hiss. With all the vacuum line issue I have had I have never heard a hiss. I wonder if by finally fixing that line I am getting some blow out (hissing) in other areas. Also I don't know how much clearance there should be from that little pusher rod from the throttle and that pcv hose assembly. It appears that the constant rubbing is what killed the previous vacuum line. I wouldn't think there should be contact here. Is something out whack? Also after about 10 minutes the car started to stumble again never dying but needed me to depress the gas pedal. It seems slightly worse than before.

Post by **jblackburn** » 10 Oct 2012, 07:42

Also after about 10 minutes the car started to stumble again never dying but needed me to depress the gas pedal. It seems slightly worse than before.

As soon as that car hits open loop mode, it's getting confused when the O2 sensor comes into the equation. Most likely due to that hiss you're hearing. Find that broken vacuum line, you should be good.

This yellow hose at the top the one that's rubbing?

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 15 Oct 2012, 09:06

Yes, I will be looking for the leak. The PTC valve/connection looks to be pretty shot. It is difficult to get it to seal. That being said, when I press it firm with my hands the hissing doesn't decrease. I wonder If there is a large crack/leak in the assembly that runs under the manifold. I am ordering the assembly from IPD with all OE parts. Thanks to jblackburn help I should be tackling this over the weekend.

In reference to your picture above: Is that yellow line a vacuum line? I will check tonight but, I just assumed anything with that plastic wrapping (Which distengrates when touched) was wires. Looking at your PCV tutorial and others it looks like the one tool I will want to have is a racheting 12mm wrench. I should have everthing else.

Also, Since my car has thrown the P0455 code since I have had it, should I replace those hoses as well? Would this impact the idle or just cause one to fail emissions test? Since I'm in LA I don't need to have emissions tested.

Post by **jblackburn** » 15 Oct 2012, 09:30

That is a vacuum line, going to the SAS valve for the air pump.

Change the EVAP lines in hope you can figure out what's causing that code. Illuminating the check engine light disables fuel trim, which means the car isn't running at its full potential power or gas-mileage-wise.

Good luck with the PCV job; let us know if you've got any questions along the way.

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 21 Oct 2012, 17:30

Ok so before doing the pcv job I really slept on it. I just didn't think the problems I had were my pcv. I have a small amount of smoke out of the dipstick but nothing like a puffing or major pressure. I have also never had oil out of the cap. I looked again and decided to really go over the vacuum lines. Basically what happened at the mechanics when they cleaned my throttle body (and wallet) they put the hose back on about 20 degrees off. This caused the break in the vacuum line on the flame trap and didn't allow it to sit well. The pusher rod from the thottle cable to the body was rubbing/pushing on it. Today I went in and adjusted things and put a new o-ring in the flame trap. Low and behold it ran like a dream.

So to break to saga down. Car was not running well, probably just needed a new MAF (I had a remanufactured cardine that was good for ~3 years). Brought it in to the shop they broke a vacuum line and charged me to do it. I would like to complain but afraid to give them access to my car again.

The pcv probably needs to be done. I am sure it hasn't been replaced (have 138,000 mi) but with only putting 5,000 miles a year I can't justify it.

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 23 Oct 2012, 14:24

The car ran fine on Sunday let it idle about 30 minutes and then ran to the store and back (~2 miles) and didn't have any problems. Yesterday afternoon I started up the car and took off and immediately could tell the problem had returned. Poor idle, had to put the car in neutral to maintain rpms, very sluggish when accellerating. Parked it and ran into a store for about 10 minutes when I returned the car started right back up and drove and idled fine on the return trip. This morning I ran into work and it was not running well again. It got so bad that it died at my friend house so I parked the car and rode to work with him. I will try to pull the codes tonight, it tripped the check engine light. As a side, I have a Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN OBD-II Scan Tool, will this get all the codes or does it miss some?

Tomorrow I will go over everything again, I need to zip tie the vacuum line on the manifold and put a bigger o-ring in the flame trap. I hope this will work. Since I have had always thrown P0455 codes could a leak in the hoses on that canister be causing these problems? Sometimes the gremlins in these cars can be a bit frustrating.

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 24 Oct 2012, 18:42

So I finally got a second to pull the codes from yesterdays incident. I had a P0130, P0171. In the I/M I had O2S-Not Ready (NR), EVAP-NR, HO2S-NR, CAT-NR, 2 Air-NR.

I then went under the hood (dis-connected the battery) and put a new o-ring on the flame trap connection and made sure to firmly attach the vacuum line and zip tie it. While doing this that connection popped out of the larger line that runs through the manifold and branches to the box etc. I pushed this in a well as I could but I could go back and remove some hose and get this zip tied as well.

I started the car up and it idled fine for about 7 minutes then stumbled a bit then rpms popped up to 1500 then back down to 900. It then went down to 400 rpm and nearly died, the indicator lights flashed on and off but it never died. It popped back up again but never threw a light. Drove it to school and back and as pulling into my parking spot it was stuttering a bit. When I put it in park it popped back up. I connected the scanner and pulled no codes but had CAT-NR, EVAP-NR, 2AIR-NR, O2S-NR, HO2S-NR, and EGR-NR.

I shut it off and let it rest for about 20 minutes then drove to my friends house (about 15 blocks). Let it idle in the street while loading some things up. I could hear it stutter a bit but then increase rpms and drop back down. When I got back in the check engine light was illuminated but drove home ok. It didn't die at any stop lights or stop signs. Got home and pulled P0130 and had the same NR codes.

Thoughts? I have not returned the pcv kit so could do that this weekend but could it be the 02 sensor? I appreciate your help. Thoughts?

Idling issues, checked MAF etc

Re: Idling issues, checked MAF etc