Oil Cooler Hose Connecting O-rings

grr · Post by **grr** » 18 Oct 2012, 09:02

Replaced cooling radiator, re-attached upper and lower hoses using o-rings and (weak) spring retainer clamps that came with the new radiator.
Top hose connection leaked oil after re-assembly.
Re-ordered clamps and o-rings from FCP Groton. Spring clamps were much stronger. Also included small screw-tightened hose (radiator) clamps which tightened over spring clamps.
Top hose connection leaked oil after a couple days.

Ordered o-rings only from Volvo dealer and this time received o-rings and a pair of silicone sleeve rings.
My question is: in what order do these insert on the hose end before inserting in the oil coolant radiator.
See attached photo.

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Oct 2012, 09:40

The o-ring is #27 and the sealing ring (clear) is #28. The #28 basically goes at the base of the hose fitting. Also make sure the clamp is in the correct orientation, the thicker, fluted side goes towards the radiator.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 18 Oct 2012, 10:17

With the nipple on the hose as a reference, the spacer slides on first and then the O ring. The O ring is the first thing into the radiator.

...Lee

grr · Post by **grr** » 18 Oct 2012, 10:25

Lee, thanks for the quick reply. I just (also) received this from erikv11, with a great diagram: http://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts. ... ed139e.gif.

Thanks again,
Jerry

Cincyken · Post by **Cincyken** » 29 Oct 2012, 12:46

Same topic but slightly different. My S70 is leaking at the two "O" rings at the oil cooler thermostsat. I have the two replacement "O" rings i need but getting to the torque and taking the assembly appart is chanllenging. I called my mechainc and he said when he does it he drops the subframe to get the clearance needed. Is dropping the subframe the way to go?

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Oct 2012, 13:02

I've just been through this, it turned out I had a bent oil cooler thermostat so it wouldn't seal, but anyway I had to remove/install the oil cooler thermostat several times over a few days. I never came close to dropping the subframe, that is way too drastic.

I think the best way to do this job is to remove the cooler lines altogether so get a writeup for replacing the lines and you will be good to go. The real PITA is the little bracket that attaches the lines up near the AC compressor. It isn't that hard when you figure out how to do it but it is like a puzzle. Remove the lower AC bolt (easy), then get a 1/4 drive swivel, extension and shallow socket and the bracket bolt comes off.

My torx socket fit in there just fine at the thermostat, so it may just be a matter of the right tool. On the other hand, I also just replaced that engine mount at the crank last weekend and you can easily jack the engine up 2 or 3 inches to create more room at the thermostat. Loosen the mount if you need to do that. I wouldn't hesitate to give that a try. To raise the engine, put a jack *directly* under the carrier bearing housing on the passenger axle (use a small block of wood), it is totally safe to jack from there as long as you are completely certain the jack piston is directly in line with the low point on the bearing carrier. You don't want the engine to slip off of the jack with your hands in there.