A/C Compressor Pulley Sticking

[ksdst1]

Thanks for the clarification....ordered one and hope to take care of it soon...

[ksdst1]

Hi all....i received the Gates K060495 belt and would like to install the belt to bypass the a/c compressor. Just to clarify though:
1.Is the compressor power supply to disconnect the one shown in the picture below?
2.The Gates K060495 belt is not double sided but the diagram below of the belt path without a/c looks like it needs double sided. Am I getting this wrong?
3.Also, will disconnecting the compressor affect anything else other than no a/c for my defrost? It doesn't affect the heating system, correct? I'd like this work around to get me to next spring.
Tnx....

[kcodyjr]

1. No, that's the high side pressure sensor. Disconnecting it will make it cycle endlessly. Look down near the compressor, you should see the clutch control wire leading to it. Disconnect that.

2. Although the belt back is against the idler and tensioner, there's nothing being driven by that side of the belt, and it hasn't been an issue. 25K or so miles in with mine.

3. It will only affect your ability to get cold/dry air. Nothing else should be affected.

[ksdst1]

Thanks for the quick reply. Ok, i'll focus on the wires on the compressor. It looked like there was just one wire connector that I could disconnect but I guess one would be enough to kill the circuit. And for the belt, I'm glad to confirm that the picture is the right belt path.
Tnx again!

[kcodyjr]

It looked like there was just one wire connector that I could disconnect

Yes, that's it. The clutch circuit is grounded through the compressor mounting bracket.

Disconnect that, and the clutch will not even try to engage.

Incidentally, short that to positive to force the compressor on during filling.

[ksdst1]

I forgot to update on this. I was able to use the new belt to bypass the a/c compressor and now am running with no problems. One note..the belt tension-er is always tough to compress using a square socket extended...i forgot that last time i did this i had the coolant fluid reservoir and other parts out first to give me space to use the socket. this time, no. I unbolted the tension-er and compressed it by hand and knew on the ground and remembered the trick to put the long end of a thinner hex key through a whole on the assembly and have it anchor to the other part of the assembly to keep the tension-er compressed to bolt back into place....this way it is easy to get the belt on before removing the hex key to allow the tension-er to expand and work with the belt properly.
Tnx all for the good advise!!

[Ozark Lee]

On a '98 the same bypass belt should work. The stock '98 belt is 5mm longer but the tensioner should adjust to it. The sooner you get around the compressor the better since it will usually burn the belt in half when the compressor clutch finally locks up.

There are a couple of threads that call out the replacement bearing for the clutch.

For future readers, the '99 and '00 70 series is a completely different belt.

...Lee