'99 V70 XC B5245T VVT Timing Question

[Snowdogs]

3 weeks ago My '99 with 170K suffered a burnt exhaust valve, could have been caused by leaking valve seals, intake leak on that runner, lean injector,(are being tested now). Anyway, head is rebuilt with one new valve, valve job, pressure-tested and new followers and back on the engine. Since I'm in there, I've replaced all gaskets, hoses, head bolts, cam seals, turbo seals and gaskets, along with bypass diaphragm, flame trap system, waterpump, timing belt, idler and tensioner.
Obviously, since I have replaced the cams seals, everything has been apart, so I am starting from scratch.
I bought a cam/crank holding tool set and I am at the point of setting the timing belt; the crank is locked, the cams are locked, and this is my problem= the exhaust cam has Variable Valve Timing and the VADIS instructions and pictures make no sense. The instructions say to rotate cam gear in slots clockwise, but the pictures show counterclockwise, or back BTDC. The pictures are looking at the front of the engine, could their reference point be from the other end of the engine? Is there anyone who is an "expert" with this or has done this recently and can give me a detailed instruction sequence on setting the VVT and exhaust cam pulley or a link to a good instructional video on the net somewhere.

[Ozark Lee]

Welcome to MVS,

I just went through this a few weeks ago and, with the cam adjustment tool, it really isn't that difficult after you get past the crappy VADIS instructions. Without the tool it really can't be done.

Here is how I did it, the second time, once I had the tool.

1 ) Assure that the crankshaft is at the timing mark.

2 ) Install the cam lock tools.

3 ) Install the upper portion of the timing belt cover.

4 ) Install the intake camshaft sprocket, adjust the sprocket so that the timing mark is aligned with the timing mark. This should have the sprocket bolts at the midpoint of the slotted bolt holes.

5 ) Torque the intake cam sprocket bolts to 15 ft. lbs.

6 ) Install the CVVT actuator and the exhaust camshaft sprocket as a single unit with the sprocket bolts loose. Do not tighten the center bolt on the CVVT actuator.

7 ) Rotate the exhaust cam sprocket clockwise until the timing mark is 1 tooth before the timing mark. At this point the sprocket bolts should be all the way to the left hand stops on the slotted holes.

8 ) Tighten the center bolt on the CVVT actuator. Go slowly at first so as to avoid having the actuator rotate. Once the actuator bites on the end of the camshaft tighten the center bolt to 89 ft. lbs.

9 ) Install the center cap on the CVVT actuator unit. At this point the CVVT actuator unit should rotate, with resistance, in a clockwise direction.

10 ) Install the timing belt making sure that the belt is taught from the crankshaft sprocket, across the idler roller, and on to the intake camshaft sprocket. Before you thread the belt around to the exhaust camshaft sprocket you need to rotate the center cap on the CVVT actuator unit clockwise as far as it will go. Before the belt is threaded onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket, in addition to holding the CVVT actuator at the clockwise limit, the timing mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be aligned to the timing mark.

11 ) Continue threading the timing belt until it is around the water pump and the tensioner. Adjust the tensioner until the indicator is in the window and then tighten down the locking bolt.

12 ) While the exhaust camshaft CVVT actuator is at its clockwise limit tighten the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolts to 8 ft. lbs (or snug, my torque wrench is worthless at that low of a setting). The exhaust camshaft sprocket bolts should not be at either limit in the slots.

13 ) Remove the cam adjustment tools and then rotate the engine by hand, clockwise, 2 revolutions and reset the tension on the tensioner. Check to assure that all of the timing marks are properly aligned.

At this point you should be ready to go. I start the car without the timing belt cover on so that I can re-check the tensioner after it runs for a few minutes.

...Lee

[tardis007]

Thanks. I am doing this at the moment and it's nice to have a clear and practical explanation of the proceedure. Just which I could get a tool to borrow. I am going to make an attempt at a DIY version (again) but the 89 ft pounds is a killer.
if it doesn't work I'll bight the bullet and visit mr Ebay.
Thanks again.

[Snowdogs]

THANK YOU OZARK LEE!!!
Finally a "legible" explanation. Everything else is pretty simple for a head job,maybe aside from needing double-joints for working behind the engine. Love the complexity, it's sure not like all the 8V VWs I've had, or even the '99 Forester head job 2 years ago.
For Tardis007
Be careful of the crank/cam kits on Ebay, they are good quality, but the press tool (999 5454) can come with one of 2 different thread pitches for the plug holes. A good seller will specify which one. (I got the wrong one)
Don't buy from seller Autotoolz, terrible packaging, and no response when questioned.

[andythomson]

I made a rookie mistake and mistook the manufacturer's mark "W" on the CVVT sprocket for the timing mark.The actual timing mark is a tiny "|" on the inner rim of the sprocket just right of the manufacturer's mark. On my 1999 V70 XC the timing mark "|" is really hard to see.
I got to thinking it really didn't matter what mark you call the timing mark ar long as you maintain this as The timing mark used throughout your step by step procedure.