Fuel Filter Replacement DIY
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Fuel Filter Replacement DIY
Re: Fuel Filter Replacement DIY
I have no knowledge of the '98, but can't imagine it's much different.
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cn90
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Very nice write-up!
I just want to add a few tips/tricks. This can be done in 15-30 minutes.
Last time the fuel filter was changed at 60K (7 years ago), now at 120K.
At 60K, I applied anti-seize to the 12-mm bolt, it made it easier this time!
Anyway, this is the way I do it.
1. I use Bosch Fuel Filter, about $18-$20 online.
Do this job outside of the house!
2. Drive the RIGHT Front and Rear Tires on ramps. See pic.
I lay on a piece of cardboard.
3. De-pressurize the fuel as mentioned in other posts; either pull relay (while car running), or depress the Shrader valve at the fuel rail (with engine off, just remember to put the cap back on!).
4. Using a 15-mm wrench to counter-hold the square nut (this part was left out in the original thread!), loosen the 12-mm bolt. In my case I removed the bolt completely so I can lube it with grease (so it is easier to remove at the next time 60K from now).
5. Now, use the 15-mm wrench to disconnect the hose in front of filter, cap it so you don't lose fuel.
You can cap with a "finger" cut off from rubber glove + rubber band (see pic), or use the cap that comes with new filter to cap it.
Once you have the filter out of the car, it contains approx. 400-500 cc of fuel. You don't want to trash it!
So if you have a lawn mower, empty the fuel (via the front outlet) into the lawn mower gas tank.
6. The factory filter has a rubber band around it but I threw it out @ 60K miles.
- This time, I applied a few wraps of black electrical tapes so the clamp can "bite" nicely on it.
- Pay attention to direction of flow!!!
- I also apply a very very very thin smear of grease on the filter outlet (just make sure nothing gets in the hole), so it slides very nicely into the coupling. This may prevent any possible leak later.
7. Now you need to prime the fuel filter! You can either:
a. Jump the fuel relay connector but there is a much easier way.....
b. Turn the key to position II (do NOT crank the engine).
- Every time the key is turned to position II, the fuel pump is energized for about 4-5 seconds or so.
- Remove the key, then re-insert the key and turn to position II.
- Repeat this step about 8-10 times, the fuel filter should be full of fuel now.
8. Now start the engine. Check for any fuel leak.
That is all folks!
I just want to add a few tips/tricks. This can be done in 15-30 minutes.
Last time the fuel filter was changed at 60K (7 years ago), now at 120K.
At 60K, I applied anti-seize to the 12-mm bolt, it made it easier this time!
Anyway, this is the way I do it.
1. I use Bosch Fuel Filter, about $18-$20 online.
Do this job outside of the house!
2. Drive the RIGHT Front and Rear Tires on ramps. See pic.
I lay on a piece of cardboard.
3. De-pressurize the fuel as mentioned in other posts; either pull relay (while car running), or depress the Shrader valve at the fuel rail (with engine off, just remember to put the cap back on!).
4. Using a 15-mm wrench to counter-hold the square nut (this part was left out in the original thread!), loosen the 12-mm bolt. In my case I removed the bolt completely so I can lube it with grease (so it is easier to remove at the next time 60K from now).
5. Now, use the 15-mm wrench to disconnect the hose in front of filter, cap it so you don't lose fuel.
You can cap with a "finger" cut off from rubber glove + rubber band (see pic), or use the cap that comes with new filter to cap it.
Once you have the filter out of the car, it contains approx. 400-500 cc of fuel. You don't want to trash it!
So if you have a lawn mower, empty the fuel (via the front outlet) into the lawn mower gas tank.
6. The factory filter has a rubber band around it but I threw it out @ 60K miles.
- This time, I applied a few wraps of black electrical tapes so the clamp can "bite" nicely on it.
- Pay attention to direction of flow!!!
- I also apply a very very very thin smear of grease on the filter outlet (just make sure nothing gets in the hole), so it slides very nicely into the coupling. This may prevent any possible leak later.
7. Now you need to prime the fuel filter! You can either:
a. Jump the fuel relay connector but there is a much easier way.....
b. Turn the key to position II (do NOT crank the engine).
- Every time the key is turned to position II, the fuel pump is energized for about 4-5 seconds or so.
- Remove the key, then re-insert the key and turn to position II.
- Repeat this step about 8-10 times, the fuel filter should be full of fuel now.
8. Now start the engine. Check for any fuel leak.
That is all folks!
- VolvoFuelFilter.JPG (123.65 KiB) Viewed 3886 times
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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polskamafia mjl
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Nope, no hose clamps.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
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rspi
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
Are you guys changing your filter sooner than every 100,000?
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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cn90
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Well,
I just bought a 1998 S70 GLT with 145K miles, I can see that the fuel filter is still covered in black rubberized spray from factory!
It is way overdue and I will replace it soon!
I just bought a 1998 S70 GLT with 145K miles, I can see that the fuel filter is still covered in black rubberized spray from factory!
It is way overdue and I will replace it soon!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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matthew1
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I'm averaging 60k.rspi wrote:Are you guys changing your filter sooner than every 100,000?
CN, 145k! That filter's got to be thick with junk on the inside. Congrats on the new P80!
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post
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vjaneczko
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I changed mine well over 200K - way too long. The gas dripping out of the filter was very black.
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
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my volvo850
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Thanks, I can do that! I think the Marlboro ands a touch of class, long as there's no clinker!
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cn90
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A quick note on the anatomy of the Fuel Connector (aka Quick Disconnect):
There have been many cases when people cannot remove the connector at Fuel Pump or Fuel Filter.
If one takes a look at the photo below, then it will make MUCH easier. I sketched a generic design of the Fuel Quick Disconnect. There are some variations of this design (GM, Jeep, BMW etc.), but the idea is the same. In the Volvo or Bosch Fuel System:
1. The metal pipe (at Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter etc.) is usually 8-mm in size.
2. The sealing effect is accomplished by squeezing the GREEN O-ring(s). There maybe one (1) or two (2) O-rings.
3. The Release Tab: if you push it toward the Connector, it will release the Red Tangs, allowing the metal pipe to pull out.
This is why if you use the Pickle Fork or 15-mm wrench to pry it, the tool basically presses the Release Tab toward the connector, allowing you to disconnect the fuel line.
Just make sure during install, the line is fully seated at the metal pipe!
So when you disconnect the line either at the Fuel Pump or Fuel Filter, as long as you have the right tool hooking UNDER the Release Tab, push it toward the connector to release.
This is all, no big secret!
There have been many cases when people cannot remove the connector at Fuel Pump or Fuel Filter.
If one takes a look at the photo below, then it will make MUCH easier. I sketched a generic design of the Fuel Quick Disconnect. There are some variations of this design (GM, Jeep, BMW etc.), but the idea is the same. In the Volvo or Bosch Fuel System:
1. The metal pipe (at Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter etc.) is usually 8-mm in size.
2. The sealing effect is accomplished by squeezing the GREEN O-ring(s). There maybe one (1) or two (2) O-rings.
3. The Release Tab: if you push it toward the Connector, it will release the Red Tangs, allowing the metal pipe to pull out.
This is why if you use the Pickle Fork or 15-mm wrench to pry it, the tool basically presses the Release Tab toward the connector, allowing you to disconnect the fuel line.
Just make sure during install, the line is fully seated at the metal pipe!
So when you disconnect the line either at the Fuel Pump or Fuel Filter, as long as you have the right tool hooking UNDER the Release Tab, push it toward the connector to release.
This is all, no big secret!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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