New to me 97 850 Sedan, questions.

mayhem100 · Post by **mayhem100** » 28 Nov 2012, 09:53

Hi there, I'm new here.

I'm going to take over ownership of my Mother's old 97 850 sedan. Its a basic 850, hub caps, auto, manual seats, no sunroof. Odometer shows a bit over 231,000 on the clock and while its not exactly got a pristine body (read dents and other minor ugliness) its been cared for mechanically with proper fluid changes, proactive timing belt and water pump replacements and the like.

Its been sitting for about 6 months now and nobody else in the family seems interested so I'm going to grab the title and register the thing in my name and use it as a commuter/trip car and save some big money on fuel in my 12mpg pickup truck. Got a few issues that I'd like some advice on though, keep reading.

- Got a 0172 code on the computer, MIL is on. Translates to bank 1 running too rich. I'm going to do the O2 sensors, clean the MAF, plugs, oil and filter...general tuneup stuff. Also intend to check for any vacuum leaks...I had an 02 Audi A4 that had about ten vacuum leaks that make weird MIL codes pop up and I see from reading here that the Volvo I-5 motors seem similar. Are there common points of failure or do I just need to start pulling hoses and swap em out?

Are there other things I should check for to help resolve the code? Car will not pass state inspection with the MIL lit and the computer reading "not ready", so I actually have to fix the problem.

I've been told it needs rear brakes, have to pull the wheels and see what that really means...last owner was NOT mechanically inclined.

Some electrical gremlins that need some TLC. left rear window works fine, right front does not work at all, left front and right rear go down ok, but will only go up in little bursts when you repeatedly tap on the up control for that window...by that I mean the window motor will not run up i you just press and hold the up control for that window. I'm thinking maybe a centralized problem in the center console, maybe rusty contacts or intermittent switches, but maybe the regulators or connectors in the doors are the problem. Is this a common issue or do I just need to bust out the voltmeter and start toning the whole system out?

TRACS Off light is lit on the dash, not on the switch. Dunno whats causing it or even where to start looking into it. Any thoughts? The right front tire is blown and the spare is on so I don't know if simply having the spare on would kill the TRACS or not, its lit immediately on startup.

Thanks in advance for any help. I'll be scouring the forums for anything that might help too.

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Nov 2012, 10:26

Welcome to the site, and good introduction! Glad to see you getting the old thing back on the road.

- Got a 0172 code on the computer, MIL is on. Translates to bank 1 running too rich. I'm going to do the O2 sensors, clean the MAF, plugs, oil and filter...general tuneup stuff. Also intend to check for any vacuum leaks...I had an 02 Audi A4 that had about ten vacuum leaks that make weird MIL codes pop up and I see from reading here that the Volvo I-5 motors seem similar. Are there common points of failure or do I just need to start pulling hoses and swap em out?

Before you waste money on the O2 sensors that I'm pretty sure are working just fine, fix the vacuum leaks. 99.9% of the time, the P0172 is a vacuum leak, and 80% of the time, it's here:

This can be found behind the power steering pump with the intake manifold lowered.

TRACS OFF is likely a bad ABS module. The solder joints fail, and de-activate the ABS system. Matty Moo (on the site here) re-solders the joints in these modules for a very reasonable price if you send the module off to him.

Windows - remove the switch panel from the center console and clean the contacts, and I bet they'll work again. Drinks and crap get spilled into these and the switches just stop working.

Investigate the PCV system for smoke puffing out of the dipstick on a warm engine.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28487 <--PCV system write-up

Post by **rspi** » 28 Nov 2012, 10:32

Hi Mayhem, welcome to Matt's Volvo site.

The best place to start with your P0172 code is your PCV system. Just replace it unless you have records of it being replaced over the past 5 years.

You'll need to drive the car to get the READY status and likely get it to pass smog. Most will say ''Don't waste the money", however, the car is designed to run on 91+ octane. Drive with that until you pass smog.

You likely have a bad window switch pack bad. Does the back window work well from the back door control?

Tracks is likely an ABS module problem. Matty Moo can help you with that.

Hope things work out for you.

Post by **cn90** » 28 Nov 2012, 10:36

Another source for ABS Module repair is bba-reman dot com.
They offer LT warranty.

Post by **rmmagow** » 28 Nov 2012, 11:25

Something else vis-a-vis the Not Ready. I think there's an EPA exemption for some model volvos because it so difficult to get a ready state. I've actually seen the official paper for this someplace. Might just be 98's but maybe 97 850 too.

Post by **850 LPT** » 28 Nov 2012, 11:45

Welcome to the site. 97 is the best year

I had the same "not ready" problem when I tried to register my 98' V70XC. But here in CT they let you register the car with a failed test, but then make you go through the regular re-testing procedure. Kind of weird, but it worked out ok for me. I drove the car for 3 weeks and then went back and passed the test. Maybe that's an option for you in MA as well?

Good luck with your 850.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 28 Nov 2012, 13:39

Typically with the TRACS OFF light there is also an ABS light on as well. The lamp may have burned out on the ABS warning light. Most of the time the ABS/TRACS problems are due to the the failure of the ABS module itself. Every one of the cars I have bought (except the '94) have had ABS module failures. On my daughter's '98 S70 it was so bad that the speedometer had quit working. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can repair the module yourself, I have a writeup in the repair database on how to do it, or you can send it out for a rebuild, One of our members, Matty Moo, rebuilds the modules at a very fair price and he does terrific work.

https://www.midwest-abs.com/ABS_Modules.php

I think you have the other answers but to elaborate on the readiness monitors, they are a real bear to get set on a Volvo. Volvo has a specified "Drive Cycle" to get them to set but fix your P0172 vacuum leak first.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 6234#56234

The drive cycle may or may not reset all of the monitors but trying it several times seems to help.

...Lee

Post by **xHeart** » 28 Nov 2012, 15:00

I drive Volvo like yours. It runs better after each fix. I have completed several tasks in past 12 months with the help from MVS. These were, ABS module replacement, radiator and hoses, timing belt and water pump, complete PCV, front suspension, rebuild drive axle, and replaced front hub assembly.

One item at a time, and take your time.

mayhem100 · Post by **mayhem100** » 28 Nov 2012, 15:01

Awesome, lots of good advice here, thanks guys. Looking forward to tearing into it actually.

Is the vacuum line just plain old common silicone tubing like I used on my Audi or is it something specially sized? Still got a meter or so left of the red silicone tubing.

Where is the ABS module located in the car? I'm guessing its a centralized electronic component and not the idividual wheel sensors you guys are talking about. I have a Haynes manual which is adequate, but doesn't go into a whole lot o detail in some respects. I'll have to check and see if the ABS light comes on during the cluster test cycle the next time I get in the car.

My nephew who is the last owner of the car tells me the odometer does not work, I didn't notice if the speedo works or not, but wouldn't this also be a possible symptom of the ABS module failure or no?

Edit: Found the ABS module. The prices on the remanufactured module is so darn cheap!

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Nov 2012, 16:44

Odometer on 850's is usually a gear in the cluster that breaks. There's a write-up for that here too.
www.matthewsvolvosite.com/odometer-fix-how-to.html

The vacuum line is an elbow that attaches to a brittle plastic line that runs under the intake manifold and over to the intake hose near the throttle body. If you can't fish out the old piece of hose, or the elbow's broken, etc. - just run the silicone tubing over there around the top of the engine. It'll look stupid, but it'll do the job until you can get in there and change the lines for the PCV system.