S70 ignition switch question

North42g · Post by **North42g** » 04 Dec 2012, 16:51

I have a 98 S70 produced for either the European or Canadian Market. (definately NOT U.S. market the Instrument panel is in Metric- liters etc..) The CARFAX also states - not produced for U.S. Market.
Anyways: I am trying to diagnose the No Crank, No Start issue my Volvo is having. When I turn the key to start engine and all the dash lights illuminated but no starter engagement. It was intermittent for a while then suddenly it was all the time.
So I starter tracing it back from the starter motor. I jumped the starter-it works. I jumped the starter relay pin in UHJB @ strut tower. The starter engages AND I can start the car from here as long as the key is in the run position(position II).
So next I want to jumper the starter wire at the ignition switch. I'm not sure by reading this wire diagram but if I apply voltage to the RED/BLK wire the starter should engage? Or should I apply voltage to the YEL/WHT wire?

Also: After searching the site & the net for Ignition switches...I noticed that none of them appear the same as mine.
Most have a black plastic plug with about eight wires coming from it, once removed, the switch has metal studs for each wire.
Well mine has each wire individually attached to the studs one by one. No plastic harness. It attatches to IG switch with two Torx Screws size T20. I think maybe the guy who owned it before me, or maybe even a previous mechanic, removed the black plastic and mounted the wires individually. Cant figure why but thats what it looks like.
So is it suppossed to be like that or do I need to go to the salvage yard get myself a new harness and solder it in place for everything to work properly?

Back to the original question: I should be apply to test the ignition to stater wire by manually applying voltage to the correct wire at IG Switch, correct? from the switch it looks like the RED/BLK goes to Central Electrical Unit Fuse C10(15A) , then to Fuse A6(60A), to battery, to starter.The YEL/WHT goes out to starter Relay changes to GRN/RED then to gear position switch(nuetral safety switch) , changes to GRN then out to starter. It also brakes off to cruise control module and to Anti-theft control module from the starter relay. Fuse A3(50A) also feeds the Starer relay with a solid RED colored wire.
Any help you guys can offer I'm sure may help. If it would help for me to post a picture of my IG Switch let me know and I will when the sun rises in the morning. Thanks Guys!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Dec 2012, 17:18

A picture of what you have going on at the back of the switch would be very helpful. You are, however, a probationary member and I don't think you can post pictures or send private messages. The probationary status was something we dreamed up several months ago to try to kill spam posts but it turned out to be a bigger pain than it was worth. You should get full member status with your next post but the number of posts required changed along the way.

I am going to try to e-mail you to give you an e-mail address to send the pictures to. I will then post them for you.

I am reticent to tell you what wire to jump without first seeing what you have. At that point we can dig through the schematics and try to help you out.

...Lee

Post by **cn90** » 04 Dec 2012, 17:44

Member "MadeinJapan" recently had similar issues, so we posted the starter circuit diagram in this thread:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=51006

Post by **850 LPT** » 04 Dec 2012, 17:54

I'm totally guessing here, but maybe the previous owner pulled the plastic cover off the ignition switch not realizing that the terminals are dangling loose in there if you do so. Then he started guessing as to where they all belonged and messed things up a little?
This kind of happened to me yesterday, as you can see it in my post about the fog light rewiring

.

Shouldn't the terminal numbers and wire colors be universal regardless of the market the car was made for?

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 04 Dec 2012, 20:21

I wouldn't jump ANYTHING.
Start with a meter and measure.

And the wires are more than likely still attatched to the
contact "tubes" that slide onto the pins on the switch.
Disconnect the battery and try pulling one of them off.
I'll bet a PO just ditched/lost the plastic part.

I agree that pics would be quite helpful.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Dec 2012, 21:00

850 LPT wrote:Shouldn't the terminal numbers and wire colors be universal regardless of the market the car was made for?

They should be but in the cases of extreme butchery you never know.

...Lee

North42g · Post by **North42g** » 05 Dec 2012, 04:00

Yeah...extreme butchery is right!
Just so we all all on the same page:
I am a Auto Technician by trade for five years now. I usually find repairing vehicles and solving problems sometimes somewhat easy, sometimes challenging & well, fun. However, once in a while I get something like this where nothing is the way it is supposed to be! At work we work on 80% domestic American vehicles and 15% Asian Imports 5% European Imports. Even though I own two Volvo's And A Volkswagon, there are not what I see everyday...if you know what I mean?
I'll try to post a pic of what is going on here..(if it lets me.)

BTW: I would use a tool I have called a "POWERPROBE III" (if any of you are familiar with it, I don't know).
The tool allows me to check for Power, Ground , Continuity & and send battery voltage to almost any wire in the vehicle. Pretty handy tool. I recomend it for electrical work Diag.

North42g · Post by **North42g** » 05 Dec 2012, 07:54

I just tried to post this picture of the Ignition Switch, hopefully it was able to upload.
Please let me know if this switch looks normal, broken, missing components or whatever the case may be.

Thank You in Advance.
-North42

: IMG_20121205_092254.jpg (622.8 KiB) Viewed 2776 times

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 05 Dec 2012, 09:17

What you have there is the main connector body and contacts.
It seperates from the ignition switch contact block and is supposed
to contain all the contacts when it's hanging free. But they aren't
captive contacts. The black cap is what keeps them in place
when it's unplugged and yours is missing. Any Junkyard.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 05 Dec 2012, 09:28

The picture is indeed a relief. I had the impression that the wires had been soldered directly to the posts on the switch.

Somewhere on the site we have a diagram or a picture of the back of the switch but I can't seem to find it. I'll keep looking.

We do host a set of schematics in the repair database:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downlo ... _Coupe.pdf

They are a bit of a mess as the pagination is off but once you find what you need they are quite good as they show all of the branch and junction points.

...Lee