Cleaning PCV - Reason to buy new parts?

[cn90]

nitehawk55,

I have used heater hose as PCV hose for some 20 years, zero issues whatsoever.
The rubber hose can easily handle oil, it is designed for that.

briderx ,

I guess you can use generic clamp, but for $2/each, I'd stick to Volvo clamps (basically Oetiker clamps).
Just order all the PNs mentioned above (clamps included in that reply above), minus that long pipe and you will be fine.

[briderx]

perfect. adding everything now.. could really use a 15-20% off coupon for fcp.. ha. Between this and my front suspension parts, i'm in @ almost $800.

[briderx]

This is what I'd recommend (pricing from Superior Volvo in KC):

956561...oetiker clamp...qty = 4; $1.94 x4
976584...oetiker clamp...qty = 2; $2.00 x2
977964...oetiker clamp...qty = 2; $2.58 x 2

8653339...short hose to engine block...$5.85
1271653..hose to engine block... qty = 1; $8.76
1271654..hose to top of engine... qty = 1; $21.24
(I guess you can use heater hose here, just a guess)

1271988...oil trap $29.88

9146266...intake manifold gasket... $13.86

9471644...piece of junk, save $40 for beer! Do NOT buy this. Use heater hose as I mentioned above.
The vacuum part of this, use standard vacuum hose.

I noticed you left off the fuel injector seals..?

[Ben850]

There is no need to pull the fuel rail if it doesn't leak.
Except to get at the manifold bolts ofcourse,( it's been a while), But if they aren't leaking, why bother?

[briderx]

Ahh.. Yeah, 2 are leaking here. probably best to replace.

[cn90]

Unless you have a leak, then no need to replace the fuel injector seals.
My injector seals are still original at 150K.

When you lift the manifold upward, the injectors stay with the manifold.
In other words, when doing PCV service, you don't need to remove the fuel injectors.
However, if you want to replace the seals, then go ahead, it is a piece of cake.

I posted the DIY for 98 V70 here, I just lifted the manfold upward and rested it on a piece of wood:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28334

[rspi]

If your car is not turbo, the job can be done is less than 3 hours, 4 if you're slow like me. I like to keep things simple and just replace things as I found them. No mods Joe here.

Sounds like you're on the right track with replacing everything. There is a good chance that the parts will NOT be in one piece when you take the stuff off. So often people find the hoses and tubes broken in pieces when they tear into it.

I usually leave the rail on the manifold. If not, I have never had to replace any of the injector seals. If you have some leaking already, go ahead and replace them. Not sure how you would know, if you see a fuel leak, it's likely that you have cracked injectors from someone leaning on them or something.

Most people REQUEST ALL VOLVO hoses, tubes and elbows when they order from FCP or iPd. My understanding is that they honor your request and send you all the real Volvo stuff that should last 10 years. I did NOT do that when I ordered mine (didn't know any better) and I have already had to replace an elbow or two in 13 months on one car and 2 years on the other. Both were on a turbo connection that appeared to have a plastic tube that was a little to long which caused stress in the connections. Both were split in the same location on both cars.

[erikv11]

I never replace the breather box (oil trap) any more. It's just hollow inside (OK, baffled) and I've never seen one crack. Clean it out, reuse it and put the saved $30 to work somewhere else. There seem to be plenty of somewhere elses on these cars ...

I agree the heater hose should work just as well as the copper pipe, although 2 feet of flexible pipe is cheaper than 6 feet of heater hose. And the pipe will hold its shape better of course. Matthew1 one replaced the the vacuum line to the IM nipple with a long run of fat vac hose, a much better solution than the thin vac line that comes inside the foam-wrapped pipe. In other words, clearly there is now no reason to buy that troublesome foam-wrapped pipe setup!

[cn90]

I paid $6.00 for a 6-foot roll of the heater hose (I.D. = 5/8").
I only needed about 2.5 feet, so cost wise, it was $2.50.
It cannot get cheaper than that ($1/foot).

[erikv11]

oops- agreed! I thought you would have bought higher quality stuff, I saw you said 6 foot roll and I was guessing like $3 per foot. But you only paid $6 - bad guess!