Long long crank before start even with good battery and all

sergio · Post by **sergio** » 13 Dec 2012, 20:29

From time to time (sporadically) I have to hold the ignition key for a full minute and half before the engine starts.
(Sometimes I hear the crick crick sound as if the battery was dead, yet it is new and fully charged.)
Then it would idle actually oscillate between 900 and 1200. I kick the pedal down, but the rpm would keep oscillating and would not go above 1200.
Then I play the "Microsoft Windows" turn off the engine and restart. Now it would work normally!
The Battery is fully charged. The fuel filter is new. The fuel regulator was replaced last year. Air intake sensor was cleaned last year. I don't have acceleration problem on highways.

Any idea what causes this nasty habit?

.

Post by **jimmy57** » 13 Dec 2012, 21:03

Your symptoms are historically from three possible things: 1. The transmission has been out and the face of trans and face of engine that meet are dirty. The surfaces MUST be clean when bolted together for the suppression keeping magnetic forces from starter shielded from crank position sensor. 2. The flywheel surface the crnk sensor reads is dented (trans was out and it got damaged). 3. The starter is faulty and draws too much current and creates too much magnetic forces and the properly working shielding is not up to the task when the starter has too much interference for the design.

#3 can be checked by starter current draw testing. If the starter draws more than 125 amps during cranking it is most likely the issue.

Does the tach jump while cranking when this occurs?

One more thing: there was an issue with crnk sensor where a large washer was added to shield it. If your car has the shield it will be a copper washer the sensor passes through on top of the trans hole below the crank sensor holder on back of block at top of bell housing.

Tonyx · Post by **Tonyx** » 13 Dec 2012, 22:11

Jimmy the Volvo whisperer..,

sergio · Post by **sergio** » 14 Dec 2012, 09:56

Thanks jimmy.

Transmission hasn't been touched since I bought the car 3 years ago. The problem is new though.
The crank shaft sensor was replaced last year.
The starter has been my prime suspect. I will try to test it this weekend. and will post the result.
Thanks for the advice.

Post by **jimmy57** » 14 Dec 2012, 13:23

The washer for sensor would not be a problem that would just happen either. IT would only be an issue if work were done and it was not placed back where it belongs.

sergio · Post by **sergio** » 18 Dec 2012, 19:34

It seams that the starter works well.
My problem may have to do either with the wiring or It could be that old cars (+260K Km /+165k miles) don't quickly get the gas to where it is needed.
Someone told me that I should turn the ignition to position II a couple of times before firing, giving some pushes of gas might facilitate ignition.
So, I will take several days and see if this is true.

.

odbii · Post by **odbii** » 20 Dec 2012, 18:23

I'm having the same problem in my 07 S60

Sergio does this sound like you car too?

It occurs at random times and every once in a while it shows "Reduced Engine Performance".

Replaced fuel filter and my Transmission was replaced a couple of years ago and the tach does jump when starting.

You can here the engine cranking and then it sounds like it's catching and not cranking at some points.

Here is a video of the problem I'm having. This is not my video but one I found of a similar S60 that sounds just like mine.

Post by **jimmy57** » 20 Dec 2012, 18:49

If you have tach jump then there is no doubt you have rpm sensor (known as crank position sensor or ckp sensor also) interference issues.
1. Starter current draw needs to be done by someoen who know what that is and how to do it.

2. The CKP sensor signal needs to be viewed on oscilloscope with engine running at idle. There should be consistent sinus rhythm AC waveform with a purposeful interruption for the flywheel reference marker. The amplitude of the last wave and first wave at the marker will be higher.

3. if the test above doesn't work then the trans and engine need to be separated 1/2 inch and the surfaces scrubbed with rifle cleaner brushes and brake cleaner spray.

odbii · Post by **odbii** » 21 Dec 2012, 08:36

Ok, thanks I will check it out. Nice to know that this board has someone with answers. Been to the other volvo forums and they never even replied.

Thanks again.