['96 850 GLT Wagon w/ECC] Feet still feel no heat

[s2zeller]

Second pass at reading codes (the first eight non-blank codes are the same):

134 - Pass. Side Duct Temp. Sensor Circuit Open Or Shorted To Power
141 - Driver’s Side Temp. Switch Faulty Control Signal
211- Driver’s Side Damper Motor Position Sensor Circuit Open Or Shorted To Power
221 - Pass. Side Damper Motor Position Sensor Circuit Open Or Shorted To Power
222 - Pass. Side Damper Motor Position Sensor Shorted To Ground
231 - Ventilation Damper Motor Position Sensor Circuit Open Or Shorted To Power
233 - Floor/Defrost Damper Motor Position Sensor Circuit Open Or Short To Power
322 - Pass. Side Damper Motor Active Too Long
<blank>
323 - Ventilation Damper Motor Active Too Long
414 - Driver’s Side Temp. Sensor Intake Fan Seized
417 - Pass. Side Temp. Sensor Intake Fan Seized

Then 134 came up... so now I'm sure I went all around.

Off to clear them and sees what shows up in the next day or so.

[s2zeller]

I'm having trouble deleting the plethora of old codes.

I'm following these steps (from ECC climate control temp sensor measurements made easier):

From the Haynes manual it sounds like I have to turn the ignition to On, close the switch for five seconds, open it, wait 3 seconds for the LED to light, and then close the switch for another 5 seconds, and then open it, watch for the LED to go out and then turn off the ignition.

I never have the LED go on after closing the switch for 5 seconds.

[erikv11]

Thanks for posting, I am following along trying to sort out ECC codes in both of my 850s.

Hmmm I suspect you have the sequence correct from your earlier posts but your last one makes me unsure, so to be crystal clear are you following this?

To delete codes:
- Turn the ignition to On,
- close the switch for five seconds (LED on), then open it (LED turns off)
- wait 3 seconds for the LED to light by itself
- close the switch for another 5 seconds (LED remains on), then open it
- watch for the LED to go out (mine went out instantly) and then
- turn off the ignition.

I just walked in from doing this with the gizmo and the OBD connector in my 95, and it worked fine for resetting a CEL code (pin 3, not pin 6). The 95 does not have a wire in pin 6, I'll have to use the DTC box under the hood I guess. But I'll try it at pin 6 tomorrow on my 96 that also has ECC codes, I'll let you know how it goes.

[s2zeller]

Yes, that is the procedure I am trying on my '96. The LED never lights by itself.

I guess I'll be digging around to see if this has been successfully done with a '96.

[jreed]

I have definitely done it on the '97. If I recall correctly you have to leave the switch closed for 6 to 7 seconds (not 5).

[s2zeller]

For the purposes of completeness, my earlier attempts to clear the ECC codes were starting 'fresh' (i.e. without just finishing any code reading, and having turned the ignition off).

I'm assuming that that shouldn't make any difference, but in case it does....

[s2zeller]

Well, I used 6-7 seconds, 3-4 seconds, 10 seconds, and I am still unable to clear codes.

I tried after reading one code, before reading any codes.

For kicks, I tried my OBD-II reader, but it came up clean.

Could this inability be an indication that there is a problem with my control unit, or that this doesn't work on a '96 for some reason?

I've seen some mention about reading all of the codes before clearing. Is that because the codes will be well and truly gone, or because it is only at that time the ECC is ready to accept the delete commands?

I'll give that a try...

[s2zeller]

Gah!

Now I can hardly pull any codes. I managed to get the first two codes (after many <blank> entries), but then nothing. It doesn't want to initiate the reading sequence.

I'll go back over my code reader to make sure all of the connections are sound...

[erikv11]

Well, the reading and reset routine also worked for ECC codes on my 96 850 GLT. Using the LED on pin 6, I recorded 7 different ECC codes before it repeated the first code. Then I cleared the codes and it only read 1-1-1.

To clear the codes, I just left the key alone, on in position II. In other words, I read the codes, then when the first code repeated the next thing I did was hold the switch for 5 seconds, release and the LED lit up. Then close for 5 seconds, release, turn off key. Turned on key, codes were gone.

I then did the self-adjust on the damper motors, hopefully this will eliminate codes we will see.

[erikv11]

I haven't tried the automatic self-adjustment procedure, so I'm not sure it works, but for what it's worth the Haynes manual outlines the following procedure:
1) Move fan speed control switch on ECC to any manual fan setting (not "O" or AUT)
2) Turn function selector switch to "AUT"
3) Use the diagnostic module ('93-'95) Socket 1 of Module B or home-brew LED code reader ('96-'97) and press the button four times for one second each
4) The LED should start flashing
5) Enter 9 9 9 9
6) Wait about 10 seconds to let the fan motor start up again
7) The AC and ECC lights should flash
8 ) Drive the car at >20 mph for a few minutes to let the ECU learn the new values of the dampers
9) Stop the car but leave it running to allow the ECU to save the new values
10) Verify the self adjustment procedure by pressing the diagnostic button 1 time for 1 second. If you get "1 1 1" flashed back, the procedure is complete.
11) If you get 5 1 1, it was not completed and should be repeated
12) If you get any other code, there is still a fault in the system that must be corrected.

Just a couple comments about this, when I ran the routine tonight on my 96 it was not exactly as Haynes describes:
- First comment: before you do anything, start the car, you will need it running when you get to step 8.
- Second comment: I used the homemade LED reader to clear all ECC codes before starting.
- Step (1) choose a fan speed about the middle or higher, so it is easy to tell when it is on or off with the car running.
- NOTE: once you choose a fan speed, leave it there. Do not touch any ECC controls until the very end, AFTER step 10 is complete.
- Step (4) the LED came on for like 1 second, then turned off. So not really "flashing," but "one flash."
- Step (6) the fan turned on after only the third set of 9 pushes.
- Step (7) the ECC lights never flashed. So step 7 didn't happen, but I went on to step 8 = drive the car.
- Step (8) I drove to a stop light, then when it turned green drove for like 12 minutes at 25 - 35 mph, without stopping. I heard the flap motors doing things in the dash periodically.
- Step (10) I did with the car still running, in the driveway.

I am certain the above sequence worked, because the first time I tried it I screwed it up and I was getting 5-1-1. I couldn't clear the 5-1-1 like a regular ECC code, the only way I could get rid of it was by starting over and completing the self-adjustment procedure start to finish. Then it showed 1-1-1.

This procedure did seem to fix a problem where my car was not mixing air properly at temperatures less than full high.

Hope that helps someone.