P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)

[rspi]

Nice little tool. It looks like the second car was a 850 or early S70. Thin timing belt covers.

[bob abouie]

Hi Yall I hope I am posting this correctly.

I am almost done with this job and I have used this tutorial as my guidepost, THANK YOU so much for this information!

When I put the intake manifold back on I could not get the support bracket hole to line up with the tapped hole in the manifold.

I tried reaching under there and shoving it over, it seemed pretty solid...

I'm loathe to lift everything out of there at this point. Can I "roll" without this bolt or should I take it to the mechanic or can the bracket move? What is the best way to move it, it has to move to the passenger side.

I guess I could find a long skinny skewer or something, see if I can scoot it over - you can see part of the hole from below.

[cn90]

Tighten the 7 bolts holding the manifold first.
The swing the L-shape support bracket under the I.M. and install the bolt.
Then install the other bolt (from the bracket to the engine block).

BTW, you should have used the 5/8" heater hose, this fixed my smoking dipstick problem:

DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mod: no more smoking dipstick!
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53448

[bob abouie]

Ya, I did put on all the manifold bolts first. That's why it is a little weird that the bracket is out of alignment, but I may have pushed it a little to the driver's side as I, like Justin, crowbarred out the oil box after taking out the right screw - just to vent a little frustration at that point!

Seemed like a fun thing to do at the time. I wanted to see the inside anyhow!

My thought is someone with a lift can whack da bracket over the quarter inch it needs to move.

Thanks.

BTW, no more smoking dipstick!! Box was mostly clear but with some sludge build up.

To make long story short it looks like the skinny PTC to separator hose was the main blockage. All PVC to PTC hoses were extremely brittle.

Also, Be prepared to replace a lot of vacuum line! The vacuum connections to the Intake Manifold were "welded" in place on my 1998.

I'd suggest having about 8 feet of 4.2 mil ID vacuum line, you wont need it all but do you really want to head to the parts store in the middle? Plus if you crush some of that hard volvo stuff you'll need it. And two or three feet of 6 mil ID. I also used some 3/8" ~9mm fuel safe line for the evap circuit to manifold. I broke the one way valve and had to cut it off the other barb so I could JB weld the barb I'd broken back on.

Also get plenty of good screw drive clamps for the PTC and other connections where you will not want to use the Oeticker pliers.

****NOTE - I got the FCP Groton kit and it had 100% volvo hoses!!!!!

All I can say is TG it did stop the dipstick smoking - this is one heck of a PITA although quite a tour of the engine.

[braines]

This June, I took my '95 850 turbo in to a reputable mechanic in the Chicago area who specializes in Saabs and Volvos for the 90,000 mile service, he looked it over but didn't flag anything with the PCV vale. 2,000 miles and 6 months latter my front brake caliper seized up on a drive to Saint Paul and I took it to a guy there who only works on Volvos and who I've used and trusted for years. He got my brakes fixed and while he was at it, found a list of other things that he wanted to do while I was there but didn't have time because it was the day before christmas and I had to return to Chicago right after. The big item on that list was to replace the flame trap/PCV due to 'positive crank case pressure' his write up listed readings from -0.1 to +0.3 kPa. I've been sweating this since I think this is at the limit of my abilities to do myself. I read on here about putting a latex glove over the spot where the oil cap goes. I did that, and it seemed to be slightly sucking the glove in most of the time, especially at idle, and was kinda 'neutral' just vibrating the rest of the time. No smoke and not inflating of the glove like a balloon. How can I definitively know if I need to do this job?
or if the mechanic got a strange reading due to cold weather+summer oil/was anticipating that I would likely need this job soon due to age+milage and just trying to get me 'ready for it'. Is there a chance that catching it early that I can run something through the engine without disassembling it to clean the PCV so that I can put this job off for a decade (~40,000miles)


Did RSPI figrure out how to use the ScanGauge II to read/report intake manifold pressure?

Thanks for your expertise and guidance.

[shiloh51933]

I just serviced the pcv system w(TBP mod) in my wife's '96 850 about a month or so ago. I had to plug up the flame trap hose that goes to the oil separator box because the new oil separator box didn't have the hole for it. Anyway, I knew it was temporary but now oil is squeezing it's way past oil filler cap gasket...lol. So now I gotta swap in the right oil separator box before I do any real damage(I told her she couldn't drive it and gave her my '99Lude). It's actually cold out today and working at Lexus has spoiled me...this can't wait until I go back to work wed.. I should have just put the old one back but I didn't and now I'm kicking myself in the arse!!

[jblackburn]

This June, I took my '95 850 turbo in to a reputable mechanic in the Chicago area who specializes in Saabs and Volvos for the 90,000 mile service, he looked it over but didn't flag anything with the PCV vale. 2,000 miles and 6 months latter my front brake caliper seized up on a drive to Saint Paul and I took it to a guy there who only works on Volvos and who I've used and trusted for years. He got my brakes fixed and while he was at it, found a list of other things that he wanted to do while I was there but didn't have time because it was the day before christmas and I had to return to Chicago right after. The big item on that list was to replace the flame trap/PCV due to 'positive crank case pressure' his write up listed readings from -0.1 to +0.3 kPa. I've been sweating this since I think this is at the limit of my abilities to do myself. I read on here about putting a latex glove over the spot where the oil cap goes. I did that, and it seemed to be slightly sucking the glove in most of the time, especially at idle, and was kinda 'neutral' just vibrating the rest of the time. No smoke and not inflating of the glove like a balloon. How can I definitively know if I need to do this job?
or if the mechanic got a strange reading due to cold weather+summer oil/was anticipating that I would likely need this job soon due to age+milage and just trying to get me 'ready for it'. Is there a chance that catching it early that I can run something through the engine without disassembling it to clean the PCV so that I can put this job off for a decade (~40,000miles)


Did RSPI figrure out how to use the ScanGauge II to read/report intake manifold pressure?

Thanks for your expertise and guidance.

Pull out the oil dipstick at idle and check for smoke. If you can rev the engine a bit and the smoke sucks back down into the opening, you should be OK to put this job off a few months.

[nzvlnr]

I replaced my PCV system about 5 months ago or so....Then I put in a heavy duty IPD CBV and solenoid for the turbo.....then I put in a new dipstick o ring + turbo drain seal+o ring, no leaks from either. Then I took the car for a ride....wooo....hoooooo...
Now I have oil all over the front of the motor...I pulled the fuel injector rail out and ther is oil sprayed all over the the underside around injector #3 counting form the timing belt side....and runs down the block and all over the oil pan...grrrrrrrr!!@&*@%
Any ideas? In am thinking it could be a bad connector on the PCV or blown hose ?? Maybe a connector I tightened too much?

[nzvlnr]

The leak was on the j hose that attaches to the block ( see pic)....WHat a big ....frekin...!&*@%#.....Lesson learned...DONT TIGHTEN THE HOSE CLAMPS SO TIGHT.......

[erikv11]

Just curious, do you recall what brand that hose was?