V70XC - 10th day into reaching oil leak in Final Drive

Post by **xHeart** » 07 Jan 2013, 13:05

It now feels I am all by myself in Final Drive wonderland.
Here is a recap after following instruction from VIDA?
- rear suspensions components are off
- rear axles out of bearing hub assembly
- final drive and vc is lowered some 8 inches
- 6 prop shaft screws to VC are removed

Now I am two steps away from rolling away the final drive and vc from the underneath, need help on troubleshooting from you AWD folks.
1 - need to pull out axle from fd, what is that clip with bolt on drivers side?
2 - need to separate prop shaft at VC, is it under PB Blaster.

I will post photos tonight.

Post by **xHeart** » 09 Jan 2013, 20:41

prop shaft cv joint seam at red arrow, and vc flange at white arrow. the six screws holding it together is removed. But it is weather tight, so i gently ground of the rust, now looking for input on ways to separate the two.

It is on PB Blaster for past 24 hours.

: separation anxiety; V70XC_0604.jpg (410.02 KiB) Viewed 1404 times

Post by **mikealder** » 10 Jan 2013, 01:04

Pull the shaft to the front of the car the the flange will be sat inside the rear axle part, there is a lip of about 1MM which stops it falling out when assembling but makes it fun taking it out - The only time I have done this job I had the front coupling released, rear coupling realeased and center bearning released, at this point pull the shaft to the front of the car and it should come away from the rear axle - Mike

Post by **xHeart** » 10 Jan 2013, 09:19

mikealder wrote:Pull the shaft to the front of the car the the flange will be sat inside the rear axle part, there is a lip of about 1MM which stops it falling out when assembling but makes it fun taking it out - The only time I have done this job I had the front coupling released, rear coupling realeased and center bearning released, at this point pull the shaft to the front of the car and it should come away from the rear axle - Mike

Thanks Mike,

Both axles were pulled out of FD.
If you say that the cv joint at the red arrow goes in about 1mm into the VC flange, then could I use a dull soft metal chisel like object against the VC flange to hammer it away toward the back of the car, since i have the FD lowered and free?
Would some propane heat at the white arrow help?

Here is another photo FD/VC on a cart to roll out from the underneath at the rear of the car.

: FD/VC on a cart to roll out

Post by **xHeart** » 10 Jan 2013, 09:38

Or is this a twist to release type?

Post by **JDS60R** » 10 Jan 2013, 14:10

Usually just rusted in. Some releasing oil and use of bolts in the threaded holes (not the ones for the 6 bolts you just took out) in the back of the flange will get it out. I do not heat them but know folks who do.

On the Haldex models I can never get the joint out unless the shaft has been removed from the front bevel gear as well.

If you rip a boot I found a place that sells just the boot at http://www.driveshaftparts.com/

Just add BK to the end of the joint kit number and you get the boot kit. For example most of the Haldex units use a ME733 so if you wanted just the boot kit you would get a ME733BK. They are easy to deal with on the phone. I paid $25 for the boot kit. I buy several at a time

Post by **mikealder** » 10 Jan 2013, 14:15

Disconnect the prop at the front end and rear then remove the two bolts holding the center bearing to the tunnel cross member, remove the four bolts holding the tunnel cross member and lower the center part of the prop shaft to the floor, the fwd end should release from the transfer box coupling by exerting a little pressure to the shaft in the rearward direction, the rear end of the prop should come away by exerting a little pressure in the forward direction to the prop shaft, it shouldn't need heat or hitting to seperate from the vehicle.

If you want to drive the car in two wheel drive make sure you replace the tunnel cross member that the prop center bearing carrier was bolted to but you can expect a bit more wheel spin from the front wheels in the wet if you use the throttle to heavily - Mike

Post by **xHeart** » 12 Jan 2013, 14:10

After some rethinking of my situation, left the VC connected to prop shaft.
Removed the three 12mm screws and pulled the FD out from the underneath.

: Seal at shaft for VC Coupling; V70XC_0612.jpg (477.55 KiB) Viewed 1336 times

There is a pin hole to help it breath and vent. Has anyone modified it and installed the bleeder vent?

: Final Drive vent; V70XC_0617.jpg (319.83 KiB) Viewed 1336 times

RosserV70 · Post by **RosserV70** » 08 Sep 2020, 22:25

I know this is super old- but are there any tricks to removing the two rear axles? Is it a matter of disconnecting the two wheel hubs and they pull out? I need to replace the output seals in the final drive. Couldn't find anything in VIDA.

Post by **Mike Langlois** » 09 Sep 2020, 08:58

I am in the process of doing this and have done it before. I could not get the inner CV joints out of the rear differential last time ( MI tried very hard to accomplish this) and bought the axle poppers to try this time. An alternative I am considering, is to leave the axle 'stub' in the rear differential, pull apart the CV joint and rebuild it, then reassemble the CV to the stub still in the differential. This sort of happened on my front axle and I had to reattach the boot once the axle was installed. FYI, advice on removing the prop shaft is correct, unbolt everything; then I lightly tapped the front and rear of the shaft with a dead blow hammer; everything separated easily. BEWARE the rear cv joint on the prop shaft; it is not repairable and if damaged, you replace the prop shaft. I am going to disassemble/ clean and re-grease the front CV prior to install.
Manic Mike