How to test MAF sensor problems?

Post by **JDS60R** » 16 Jan 2013, 20:27

I sent you an email. Contact Amazon and have them confirm with Bosch if needed. The Amazon "Does it fit my car" computer says the 088 and 108 are correct. Now that we know better from Bosch just let them know.

Please let us know how this turned out.

Post by **precopster** » 17 Jan 2013, 11:13

You're welcome

Emil · Post by **Emil** » 17 Jan 2013, 17:06

Ordered 0280218108 so we will see how it works when it arrives.

Thanks to all who contributed to solving this issue. Guessing there are many who used the wrong pn and may have caused them some headache.

Thanks,
Emil

Emil · Post by **Emil** » 23 Jan 2013, 19:59

Evening,
Got the correct MAF sensor and got it installed. Car started and idled nice. But there are a lot of strange things happening and I don’t know where to start. What is frustrating is that NONE of the below conditions or codes were present before I started monkeying with the MAF sensor.
• Sometimes, no throttle response at all, the car just idles even if I step the throttle to the floor. I turn the car off and restart and I now have throttle response.
• Car is very sluggish from a start, needs close to 2000 rpm to start moving, need to nurse it up to 3000rpm, pulsing and hesitating, to get to 60mph and that is about all I get out of it.
• 3 messages
o Engine system service required
o Engine system service urgent
o STC service required
• PO codes
o 238
o 103
o 118
o 452
o 236
 I clear them, they come right back
• Cruise control stopped working
• Shifter position indicator in the dash stopped indicating gear position
• Remote door opener in visor stopped working and can’t be reprogrammed
o (not hung up on those 3 last things but they tell me something electronic/computer related went haywire)

So how in the world could I have caused so much havoc? It started when I was trying to measure the old MAF sensor with a multi meter. I was concerned I may have crossed or shorted across pins in the harness connector with my leads and made the ECU go crazy. I did something. As I said above, none of this was going on before I started my “little” sensor diagnostic. So I am at a loss and not sure where to even start. And my closest Volvo shop is 6 hours away even if I wanted to just throw money at it. Any ideas what I may have wrecked? Do I need to reset the ECU? Any thoughts where to start?

Thanks,
Emil

Emil · Post by **Emil** » 23 Jan 2013, 20:13

I should add, although I can’t see if there would be a correlation, but I did change the rear brakes, disks and pads. Parking brake pads fell off so no parking brake now but I live in ND and parking brakes do not get much use here and I didn’t have the parts on hand so I put it back together. Brakes work fine (less the parking brake).
But then I found something about brake pedal positioning sensor, related to the malfunctioning cruise control and I started to think if my brake job caused some of my issue.
Thanks,
Emil

Post by **JDS60R** » 23 Jan 2013, 21:03

Emil,
Lets start with the fuses. Check every one under the hood and in the dash.

Post by **precopster** » 23 Jan 2013, 23:03

Two of those codes are MAF related.

After checking fuses you may as well check the new MAFs output to be sure it is lower than your first MAF and stable.

Just curious what type of scanner are you using? Few scanners can accurately read Volvos post '99 with certainty

castconcrete · Post by **castconcrete** » 24 Jan 2013, 05:00

In addition to the MAF problems, could all of the "new" weirdness be related to battery issues?

Emil · Post by **Emil** » 24 Jan 2013, 17:05

Evening,

Checked all fuses, in all three panels and all were in good shape. I did not check the relays though. Should I?

Battery tests 12.16V with car off ( a bit low I suppose), but measures 14.4-14.5V while idling. Turning everything on brings it down to 14.2V or so but bounces right back to 14.4V. I did chance the voltage regulator some time ago (an interesting job in itself), but did not replace the alternator which I am assuming, based on readings, is fine.

I will have to get the piercing leads to test the new MAF. The pins are so small it is almost impossible to use a cheater cord and the nail trick doesn’t work. Have seen those at Amazon for about $40 and should work with my Fluke. The code reader I used was at O’Reillys so I am sure it’s not the greatest. I may have to break down and get myself a VIDA/Dice (sp?). I just called my independent and he is going to plug it into his computer tonight.

So not much progress, but thanks for the advice.

Thanks,
Emil

How to test MAF sensor problems?

Re: How to test MAF sensor problems?