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Intake Manifold Removal

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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VolvoMonkey
Posts: 60
Joined: 31 August 2011
Year and Model: V70 XC 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA

Intake Manifold Removal

Post by VolvoMonkey »

Removing the intake manifold has been a huge pain, and I'm not even done yet. I'm probably not going to bother since I did finally manage to get enough clearance to remove the oil separator, but for future references:

How do I disconnect this wire from the intake manifold:
IMG_2292.JPG
The connection to intake throttle (?) on the manifold seems solid, I don't want to try to break it off there. And for the life of me I couldn't figure out the connection at the bottom of the wire. Even if I did, there is a bracket on the lower left of the picture that I don't think the connection would fit through!

Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

You have two choices. The first is to disconnect the wires at the connector that is shown in you picture at the bottom and then remove the ETM along with the intake manifold. Option 2 is to remove the ETM from the intake manifold. It is 4 bolts but you will need a new gasket.

Under no circumstances should you try to remove the wires at the top where they go into the ETM. While you have it off, cleaning the ETM is a good idea but be careful not to get any solvents into the electrical portions on the side of the ETM.

Personally, I would just disconnect it at the connector at the bottom.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

mikealder
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Post by mikealder »

Remove the starter motor steady bracket and the cable can be slid out from between the front face of the engine block and the starter motor, when you put it back in loop the cable and tywrap it in place but not behind the starter as this makes subsequent removal (for cleaning) far easier. If you do resecure this way make sure the cable cannot go it to the radiator fan as you can imagine what that would do.
On the connector is a small plastic tab that you have to squeeze to release the locking device, the plug can still be quite difficult to release but I find a large flat bladed screw driver to lever the two parts away from each other while squeezing the locking tab works a treat - Mike

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