I have a 1995 850 turbo wagon that will not start. The engine spins but will not start. This problem initially started last week but I was able to get the car started, then. As I would turn the key to start the engine after a few spins it would attempt to start but sort of miss fire, (tried to start but failed). When I would turn the key again the engine would spin but not attempt to start at all. I discovered, if I turned the key all the way off, (to the position to remove the key), then forward to start, (with a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal), the engine would try to start, sometimes it started, other times I had to repeat this action 1 or 2 times. and the engine would start. This problem did not occur every time I started the car. Though, now, nothing works, the engine spins but does not attempt to start. Tomorrow, I'm having the car towed to a local garage, that I have done business with and trust for many years though they do not have a lot of Volvo experience. I am hoping to get some insight for them and me on what the problem might be.
Thank you in advance.
1995 850 turbo wagon
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wwn707ap
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 11 February 2013
- Year and Model: 1995 850 turbo wagon
- Location: Reading PA
Slimflex 2 TY for your quick response
1. 1/2 tank of fuel
2. Yes, it cranks very well
3. Battery ck'd 2 weeks ago 13.6 amps
? 1. Is there a way to test the fuel relay
? 2. Could it be the fuel pump
? 3. If the fuel pump can it be accessed without dropping the tank.
1. 1/2 tank of fuel
2. Yes, it cranks very well
3. Battery ck'd 2 weeks ago 13.6 amps
? 1. Is there a way to test the fuel relay
? 2. Could it be the fuel pump
? 3. If the fuel pump can it be accessed without dropping the tank.
first l want you to test if you are getting enough fuel pressure. you can go to any autostore and get a gauge and hook it up on the fuel rail. turn the key to III position, do not start the car, take the reading for the pressure. pressure should be between 38-40 on a cold engine. if you are below that, thats your problem then, fuel related. here is a link to how to test for fuel pressure and test for fuel pump related. do that and get to me asap. also you dont have to drop the tank to access the fuel pump. its in the trunk behing the rear passenger seat.
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850- ... lay-64044/
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850- ... lay-64044/
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rafmarkham
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 15 January 2009
- Year and Model: 2004 VOLVO V70 2.5T
- Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada
This may or may not be relevant, but may be worth checking out if you experienced low temperatures in Reading, Pa. recently,as we have had in Markham, Ontario.
A few winters ago I had a similar no-start problem with our 1995 850 Turbo Wagon, and noticed the air intake hose would collapse on itself when the starter engaged and turned the engine over. Disconnecting the air intake hose the engine fired up, and kept going IF I connected and re-connected the hose to keep it from stalling. In my case the problem was due to ice build-up in the inter-cooler, abetted by (oil/sludge) deposits after 280,000 km of driving: the engine couldn't breathe. Once you get it thawed out enough to run - if it will run long enough - get the car into somewhere warm. (If you drive there fast. it may start to feel like you are in "limp " mode as ice builds up again. Let it idle a while until it de-ices a bit more.)
If you have managed to flood the engine with starting attempts this may explain why it refused to start or "cough" after several tries. You may have to wait.... . If there is fuel pressure at the injector rack under the aluminium cover above the manifold (press in the tire-valve-like thingy at one end), it may not be a fuel-related problem.
Also, check the oil dipstick for signs of "mayonnaise" below the sealing O-ring, since condensation of water vapour from the sump - an oil change may be needed after too many short runs in the cold.
I had my inter-cooler flushed out with degreaser, which solved my problem,and it has run well for several years since. This winter my daughter swapped her car for our 850 to do some moving, and has just had a similar choking problem in Ottawa after -15 C. temperatures. She managed to get it going, but experienced limp mode symptoms until the car warmed up. No more trouble after temperatures came up; she now has her won't-die non-turbo 1993 Honda Accord back. Now at 370,000 km, it's time to re flush the 850T inter-cooler again - we still have more winter to go through yet. At least our 1998 non-turbo S70 won't suffer the same affliction.
Hope this helps.
A few winters ago I had a similar no-start problem with our 1995 850 Turbo Wagon, and noticed the air intake hose would collapse on itself when the starter engaged and turned the engine over. Disconnecting the air intake hose the engine fired up, and kept going IF I connected and re-connected the hose to keep it from stalling. In my case the problem was due to ice build-up in the inter-cooler, abetted by (oil/sludge) deposits after 280,000 km of driving: the engine couldn't breathe. Once you get it thawed out enough to run - if it will run long enough - get the car into somewhere warm. (If you drive there fast. it may start to feel like you are in "limp " mode as ice builds up again. Let it idle a while until it de-ices a bit more.)
If you have managed to flood the engine with starting attempts this may explain why it refused to start or "cough" after several tries. You may have to wait.... . If there is fuel pressure at the injector rack under the aluminium cover above the manifold (press in the tire-valve-like thingy at one end), it may not be a fuel-related problem.
Also, check the oil dipstick for signs of "mayonnaise" below the sealing O-ring, since condensation of water vapour from the sump - an oil change may be needed after too many short runs in the cold.
I had my inter-cooler flushed out with degreaser, which solved my problem,and it has run well for several years since. This winter my daughter swapped her car for our 850 to do some moving, and has just had a similar choking problem in Ottawa after -15 C. temperatures. She managed to get it going, but experienced limp mode symptoms until the car warmed up. No more trouble after temperatures came up; she now has her won't-die non-turbo 1993 Honda Accord back. Now at 370,000 km, it's time to re flush the 850T inter-cooler again - we still have more winter to go through yet. At least our 1998 non-turbo S70 won't suffer the same affliction.
Hope this helps.
2004 V70 2.5T 192,000 km
1998 S70 200,000km
1995 850T wagon 440,000 km
(Drowned Lima,OH July 2015)
1991 Mercedes 300E 174,000km
1991 Mazda Miata
1974 MGB 139,000 km
Lady Leadfoot gets the 2015 Edge
1998 S70 200,000km
1995 850T wagon 440,000 km
(Drowned Lima,OH July 2015)
1991 Mercedes 300E 174,000km
1991 Mazda Miata
1974 MGB 139,000 km
Lady Leadfoot gets the 2015 Edge
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wwn707ap
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 11 February 2013
- Year and Model: 1995 850 turbo wagon
- Location: Reading PA
Slimflex2 & rafmarkham
Replaced fuel pump relay, (#103 printed on top of relay), fuel pressure at 48.
Have discovered there is no spark at the coil, order a new coil, it will be in today and hopefully that solves the problems.
Any more help is appreciated.
Replaced fuel pump relay, (#103 printed on top of relay), fuel pressure at 48.
Have discovered there is no spark at the coil, order a new coil, it will be in today and hopefully that solves the problems.
Any more help is appreciated.
- jreed
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: 8 March 2009
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
- Has thanked: 352 times
- Been thanked: 192 times
If the new coil doesn't get the car running again, you might want to take a look at the camshaft position sensor. I haven't experienced a failure myself, but others have reported no-start behavior when the CPS fails.
Description of the no start condition caused by a failed CPS:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=35707
DIY replacement:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=24925
Description of the no start condition caused by a failed CPS:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=35707
DIY replacement:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=24925
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- rspi
- Posts: 7303
- Joined: 5 November 2011
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
- Has thanked: 34 times
- Been thanked: 72 times
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
If you have spark and fuel, check compression.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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wwn707ap
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 11 February 2013
- Year and Model: 1995 850 turbo wagon
- Location: Reading PA
Update
1.) Have codes, p1310, p0300, p0301,p0302, p0304, p0305, I believe these are all related.
Also, have codes p0133, p0137, p0172 & p0440.
New fpr, coil-igniter, fuel pressure @ 48, still no start, thinking cam postion sensor is bad, is there a to test the cam position sensor on the engine or off.
2.) Could a blocked twc cause a no spark problem.
3.) Once, the problem is fixed & the engine has started, after a cool down, would it be a good idea to clean the PVC-oil trap before it leaves the garage.
I saw the post here, on how to get to it but not clean it, all help greatly appreciated.
4.) Also, saw a note about cam position sensor not liking rainy weather, true or urban legend.
5.) Occasionally, with the car parked. down hill, in a long heavy rainr. the drivers floor will get wet, have not been able to locate a leak, no interior wet marks.
Thanks
1.) Have codes, p1310, p0300, p0301,p0302, p0304, p0305, I believe these are all related.
Also, have codes p0133, p0137, p0172 & p0440.
New fpr, coil-igniter, fuel pressure @ 48, still no start, thinking cam postion sensor is bad, is there a to test the cam position sensor on the engine or off.
2.) Could a blocked twc cause a no spark problem.
3.) Once, the problem is fixed & the engine has started, after a cool down, would it be a good idea to clean the PVC-oil trap before it leaves the garage.
I saw the post here, on how to get to it but not clean it, all help greatly appreciated.
4.) Also, saw a note about cam position sensor not liking rainy weather, true or urban legend.
5.) Occasionally, with the car parked. down hill, in a long heavy rainr. the drivers floor will get wet, have not been able to locate a leak, no interior wet marks.
Thanks
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