CAR NOT TURNING ON AFTER 3 WEEK VACATION :(

TOMMY · Post by **TOMMY** » 03 Oct 2006, 11:41

Hi Everyone,

I'm really scratching my head over this one. My car was working perfectly fine before a trip I just came back from. However, it did sit in the parking lot and it didnt get turned on for the whole three weeks.
I went to turn it on last night....nothing. So I boosted it. The car turned on and I thought everything was peachy. I charged the battery for about 10-15 mins (still jumped with another car) and then when I felt it was enough, I disconected the cars and decided to take her out for a spin. I put it in reverse, and it honestly felt like I had hydraulics in my car. For some reason, it slouched diagnoly one way...and the car didnt move at all. I tried N, D, and nothing was happening....and then my car died again. I know the battery needs replacing but Im wondering why the car acted so weird when I went to move it.
What else was weird is that the parking break, battery light, and service lights were on, but very faintly while I was charging the car. ECU problem? I dont know. I just want to know if the 850's are known for having troubles after sitting around for a while, and where I should start looking. THanks in advance for any replies that can help me in this matter.

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 03 Oct 2006, 14:03

Strange symptoms, but I would try a new battery and see if that solves the issues

CarVolvo · Post by **CarVolvo** » 03 Oct 2006, 14:04

sounds like the battery or alternator.

Sometimes when the battery drains to a point its not easy to charge it.

The battery light on the dash should go on when its not charging properly.

start from there.. if you have to take the battery in and get it checked .. then the alternator.

TOMMY · Post by **TOMMY** » 04 Oct 2006, 16:22

Thanks for the suggestions, turns out it was the alternator. And the weird hydraulics movement was just a ceased break, but it came lose after a good push in neutral. Thanks for the posts

bjornfam · Post by **bjornfam** » 04 Oct 2006, 17:41

engineering on modern cars can be quite impressive, but overall, they are not designed to sit still. i have often had minor glitches with cars allowed to sit. it's annoying.

be glad you are back and running.

next time, let an old lady borrow the car while you are away.

TOMMY · Post by **TOMMY** » 05 Oct 2006, 09:39

bjornfam wrote: next time, let an old lady borrow the car while you are away.

lol, good idea, thanks

and im glad to be back!!!

jabber · Post by **jabber** » 05 Oct 2006, 10:23

I don't know what model of Volvo you are driving but I have found the parking brakes on my 1999 S70 to be very problematic. Let's say I wash my car and then take it out for a "drying cycle" and then park it for the night. When I get in it the next day and try to back out of my garage I either hear a sickening crunch as the parking brake breaks loose or I can't move the car at all. The latter is always accompanied by the rear end lifting as torque builds. This happens whether I have the parking brake or not. Weird. I wondered if the p brakes were like they were on my 1992 VW GTI: they were self-adjusting and just required some reversing and application to tighten them up. But no love. Same bahaviour. I guess it's a sign that I don't need to replace the drums or linings that make up the system but my wife has commented more than once on the noise. Any input is appreciated!

Jordan 1999 S70 Loaded!

Volgrrr · Post by **Volgrrr** » 06 Oct 2006, 06:07

I'll chuck in my twopenneth worth here.

I think you might be unitentionally causing the problem yourself.

Stay with me here. I'm wondering if you take your car out on a 'drying cycle' to dry out the brakes and then park it overnight with the handbrake fully on, I'm surmising the brakes haven't dried out 100% but the rotor and pads are still reasonably warm.

Overnight the rotor and pad dry out as the residual heat dissipates and actually bond together because heat and moisture is the best climate to form rust.

Therefore, it may seem unbelievable, but I think your rotor and pads (hard up against each other due to the handbrake being on all night) are attempting to bond together through a tiny film of rust.

The easiest way to prove my theory is to go through the process again and when you park the car - simply leave the handbrake completely off overnight (chock the wheels for peace of mind though).

It the brakes still seize up then my theory is obviously wrong.

If I'm right - then your problem is solved cheaply.

Simply don't pull the handbrake on immediately after a 'drying cycle' run.

jabber · Post by **jabber** » 06 Oct 2006, 06:34

Volgrr,
Thanks for weighing in. I do take the car out for a spin to blow off the remaining water and dry out the brakes. I try to get the parking brake dry by applying it lightly as I come to a stop sign. I generally never use the parking brake when the car is parked in the garage as I would like to avoid the issue mentioned and there is no grade, hence no need for the brake. This doesn't seem to change the fact that the parking brake always needs to be broken loose the next morning. I have pretty much accepted that this is the way it is but I wanted input as to whether this was normal.

Thanks!

Jordan 1999 S70 Loaded!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Oct 2006, 18:50

These rear E-brakes are known to do this. I hate to say it but if you take your were to really check them out I'd bet they are all rusted up. I've heard of people taking their rear rotors off and the E-brake just completely falling apart. If you're real concerned, get them checked out but be prepared to have to replace them too.