Removing Anerobic Sealant to Replace Cam Cover - Tips?

Post by **E Showell** » 16 Feb 2013, 16:17

We are in the process of a cylinder head overhaul. The head is back on. We are about to replace the cam cover. Before we can do so, we need to remove the remains of the anerobic sealant. Anybody have any good tips for how to accomplish this? I've read the Tracystruesoaps tutorial and he makes a few suggestion, but none seem particularly effective. Anybody else been down this road?

Pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Feb 2013, 16:41

I always give the cam cover to the machine shop when I drop off the head, I think they hot tank it and use some kind of large, soft wheel on it.

But what I have found that is fantastic for removing this stuff from oil pans (exact same sealant) is a gasket remover spray I get at the local machine supply shop. Spray it on, let it bubble up, wipe it off with a razor blade (no scraping, just wipe with a perpendicular blade). I can post up the brand if you want. I can also tell you that the gasket remover now sold by Permatex, is useless in this application.

Post by **E Showell** » 16 Feb 2013, 18:13

Erik -- Please do post the brand. I will be looking for some asap. Thanks, Evan

Post by **rspi** » 16 Feb 2013, 19:32

You can go here and start at #41:
http://mail.atthetipwebs.com/technology ... ifters.htm

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Feb 2013, 23:49

The manufacturer of the quality gasket remover (i.e. it actually works!) is Anti-Seize technologies. Great stuff.

Their web page doesn't show this product but if you download their catalog it is there, on page 25.

http://www.antiseize.com/download-catalog.html

Post by **E Showell** » 17 Feb 2013, 06:51

Thus far, I have opted to keep the cams in the cam cover using a home made tool to preserve their relative positioning and to facilitate their extraction from the head. I did not remove or even loosen the cam sprockets because I did not see a need to do so. I'm thinking it will be advantageous at this point to actually remove the camshafts and set them in the head. I can use the bolt patterns on the cam sprockets and the groove positions on the opposite ends of the cams to preserve their relative positioning without getting the engine out of time.

Is there any practical reason not to remove the cams from the cam cover if I am careful not to bang the cams up and am sure I will not confuse them?

I think it would make it much easier to remove the remaining anerobic sealant. Will it make it harder to re-install the cam cover if the cams are in the head?

Post by **E Showell** » 18 Feb 2013, 11:42

Cams out. Cam cover hot tanked to remove sealant.

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Feb 2013, 12:55

I tried to reply yesterday but something was off with the site. Anyway, for sure I would to remove the cams to clean the cover. Sounds like the shop will make sure it is sparkly clean for you.

At final assembly you need to position them by the marks anyway, you wouldn't want to rely on them not moving anyway. So I would reassemble with the homemade tool once you get the cover back, just to protect those fragile cam journal slots. I have also done the install with the cams sitting in the head, it works but you must lower down the cover gradually and evenly, always keeping an eye out that the cams are straight. It is a much less of a hassle if they are locked in to the cover.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 18 Feb 2013, 16:16

When I had the sump off of the XC I tried everything and nothing worked real well. A combination of gasket remover from Advance Auto and lacquer thinner eventually got it off. Volvo lists a remover in VADIS and I think I will get a tube of that the next time around.

...Lee

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Feb 2013, 16:19

Lee you should try the Gasket Remover product from these guys,

http://www.antiseize.com/download-catalog.html

It works like a charm, fast and thorough. If you can't find it in your neck of the woods I'll try to figure out a way to get some down to KC way ...