'01 v70 base, limp home, no codes, terrible rumble at start

yellow-bat · Post by **yellow-bat** » 12 Mar 2013, 00:20

I properly disconnected Pin #2 and soldered black wire from Sacer to same.

So, I am to remove the ETM to the bench; open the Aluminum cover; Attach (12V) to green+ and Brown- at the plug
and take readings from 1&3 and 2&4. Desired result is equal readings. I saw somewhere that the input voltage to the ETM is 5Volts Does that matter?

When assembling initially I did not notice any adjustment room for the magnet. I would have to remove the Sacer for anything like that, Right. Thanks for your input.

Post by **precopster** » 12 Mar 2013, 04:21

In some cases you have to grind a small amount off the shaft to gain enough voltage equalisation. It is VERY important that you determine what the ORIGINAL voltage was.

To test what the old sensor voltage was remove the black lead and place some aluminium foil to the separated prongs on pin 2
If you have no voltage here suspect contamination of the sensor and remove and clean it (this is easier than it sounds as you will have to separate all 5 pins and also remove the bulbous cap and separate the armature wires from the sensor).

Yes you have to remove the sensor to change the angle; it's tedious and time consuming. You have around 3-4 degrees of play without grinding anything. Turning the magnet anti clockwise increases voltage.

Each time you place it back together just tension the contacts enough so you can get readings. The 5V supply is just for the contacting areas and is supplied automatically. 12V must be applied through green (+) and brown (-)

Check voltages while the unit is at rest, even if the unit appears to be off.

If the unit does a double click when applying voltage the unit has too far a variation between sensors and won't apply 5V voltage to both ends.

Aim for within .01V for example if you have 1.46 on the original sensor aim for + or - .01V of 1.45 and 1.47 volts on the Sacer sensor. The second voltage provided by the black lead will automatically be within + or - .01 Volt of the front sensor.

Hope this all helps

rickie · Post by **rickie** » 12 Mar 2013, 14:50

any opinion on Sacer vs Volvo vs Xemodex? Xemodex kindly sent me a replacement which we just put on the car and it is running worse than ever. Now it sounds like a dying 3 cylinder and this time had zero power - almost didn't make it home in limp home mode altho as soon as I went over the bump in the driveway it seemed to pick up and could make it up the slight hill.

I found on some other site a posting from a guy that tried 2 Xemodex's but his problems didn't go away - when he put in a Volvo ETM it was cured. Problem is, that seems to be just guessing and throwing money around as you can't return the things...

I've read through the whole other thread on ETM issues but did not find any info on what OTHER problem this may be when symptoms are the same as ETM.... I think I'm just finding it hard to believe the Xemodex not only went out, but now a different one won't even get it to run at all.... Tony said they had all the info stored in the computer so I didn't have to send in the bad one for him to get the info off of but I'm wondering ....

rickie · Post by **rickie** » 12 Mar 2013, 14:57

and now the engine maintenance service light is on

Post by **precopster** » 12 Mar 2013, 15:14

Restarting the car three times should clear throttle codes, however it's likely you have a bad MAF part number 0280 218 108 or a faulty brake pedal position switch.

Sounds like you haven't read codes. You are just guessing until you do so.

Post by **mikealder** » 12 Mar 2013, 15:42

If you have fitted a new ETM did you put the ignition switch to on for ten minutes prior to starting the engine, if you didn't this can screw up the engine ECU (been there and got the tee shirt) just try it again, ignition to on for 10 then fire it up, as precopster has said after three starts once it is happy it will clear the lights itself - Mike

yellow-bat · Post by **yellow-bat** » 13 Mar 2013, 18:03

I found the original voltage (1.478V) and adjusted the Sacer to (1.477Volts) Closed up and put it all back together. Erased code; but it came back PO121 still in limp mode. I am still open to any and all suggestions. Thanks!

Post by **precopster** » 13 Mar 2013, 18:13

In Vida-Dice menus you can erase ETM memory which is what I do every time I rebuild. I wonder if you may also need this

I have no more suggestions other than above

Also generic readers often don't see codes like ECM-913F which pretty much means you need another ETM

Post by **precopster** » 13 Mar 2013, 18:30

Have you replaced MAF or unplugged MAF to see if problem goes away?

yellow-bat · Post by **yellow-bat** » 13 Mar 2013, 19:16

MAF is New. I do not understand Vida Dice.

'01 v70 base, limp home, no codes, terrible rumble at start

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