Problem after transmission fluid change
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Francois850
- Posts: 64
- Joined: 21 February 2013
- Year and Model: 97 850 Non Turbo
- Location: Fort Worth, TX
Re: Problem after transmission fluid change
So I did reset (again) the ECU with a fairly long battery disconnection, followed the Volvo relearn procedure, but it made no difference...
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
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Can you provide an answer to this question so I can check the part number you fitted?precopster wrote:I wonder if you put in the wrong O2 sensor. Which part number(s) did you purchase?
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Francois850
- Posts: 64
- Joined: 21 February 2013
- Year and Model: 97 850 Non Turbo
- Location: Fort Worth, TX
Front: 15097 Bosch OEMprecopster wrote:Can you provide an answer to this question so I can check the part number you fitted?precopster wrote:I wonder if you put in the wrong O2 sensor. Which part number(s) did you purchase?
Rear: 15062 Bosch OEM
Sorry I believe I missed that question when you posted it.
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precopster
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It appears to be the right number, hopefully what was in the box matched the label.
It may pay to recheck the markings, if any on the sensor.
Short of this not working you may need to have a look at live data by means of a scanner to see if the oxygen sensors are switching correctly between around 0.3 volts and 0.9 volts and are in closed loop.
It may pay to recheck the markings, if any on the sensor.
Short of this not working you may need to have a look at live data by means of a scanner to see if the oxygen sensors are switching correctly between around 0.3 volts and 0.9 volts and are in closed loop.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Francois850
- Posts: 64
- Joined: 21 February 2013
- Year and Model: 97 850 Non Turbo
- Location: Fort Worth, TX
I replaced the front oxygen sensor twice in one month, the first one was not OEM and it triggered a code P0131.... I then got a Bosch OEM...
But, while I had the first sensor, with P0131, the car was running just fine. At leat I could drive on the freeway at 75 mph if I wanted too.... I seriously doubt an O2 sensor has anything to do with my issue.
When I release the gas pedal after trying to accelerate, I hear that weird kinda whistle sound, hard to hear but still I notice it... I bet that points to the issue but what would make such a sound??? It's so weird!
But, while I had the first sensor, with P0131, the car was running just fine. At leat I could drive on the freeway at 75 mph if I wanted too.... I seriously doubt an O2 sensor has anything to do with my issue.
When I release the gas pedal after trying to accelerate, I hear that weird kinda whistle sound, hard to hear but still I notice it... I bet that points to the issue but what would make such a sound??? It's so weird!
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
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Wished you'd mentioned this small detail earlier on.Francois850 wrote:I replaced the front oxygen sensor twice in one month, the first one was not OEM and it triggered a code P0131.... I then got a Bosch OEM...
But, while I had the first sensor, with P0131, the car was running just fine. At least I could drive on the freeway at 75 mph if I wanted too.... I seriously doubt an O2 sensor has anything to do with my issue.
When I release the gas pedal after trying to accelerate, I hear that weird kinda whistle sound, hard to hear but still I notice it... I bet that points to the issue but what would make such a sound??? It's so weird!
On the contrary your symptoms point to O2 sensor or sensing of O2 sensors by the ECU or a faulty catalytic converter.
Last edited by precopster on 01 Apr 2013, 23:41, edited 1 time in total.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Francois850
- Posts: 64
- Joined: 21 February 2013
- Year and Model: 97 850 Non Turbo
- Location: Fort Worth, TX
I am sorry, I am trying... it's getting so confusing and I am not an auto mechanic. Ok, I believe you, I just have no way to test the sensors.
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
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You need to test with a scanner or an oscilloscope. The switching is too fast for most meters.
I suggest getting it to a shop with equipment. Look in the Volvo Mechanics section and see if there's a recommended repairer in your region.
I suggest getting it to a shop with equipment. Look in the Volvo Mechanics section and see if there's a recommended repairer in your region.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Francois850
- Posts: 64
- Joined: 21 February 2013
- Year and Model: 97 850 Non Turbo
- Location: Fort Worth, TX
I agree and thank you very much for your time! Hello to the Land Down Under! 
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sleekitwan
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 10 April 2013
- Year and Model: V70 D5 2003
- Location:
Hi, on Transmission oil change apparently 'causing' a fault:
I had a gearbox (auto xmission) rebuilt, and they let the office junior put too little fluid in it.
It drove fine, except at every junction, if I took off fast, there was a sudden loss of drive, then I would brake (to avoid an accident!) and then when I hit the accelerator again, all was as normal.
SOLUTION: I would say the fluid level in the transmission is so low (only takes a pint or two short) that the torque convertor is STARVED either most of the time, or in my case, only when I accelerated sharply, it would all slosh out of the way of the convertor (I surmise).
I had previous experience in another car, of underfilling the auto transmission by only a litre or so, and I tried to inch the car up my drive just clear of the blocks I had jammed behind the wheels, and it did not budge. I pondered and read a bit, put in a bit more fluid and it was perfect.
So, if the quantity of fluid is borderline, you get weird lack of drive, if there is a 'feature' of the route that brings it on eg hill/acceleration/bump/turn etc etc.
On high mileage, when the transmission is wearing out, you get 'slippage' in a certain gear (it's like 'surging' and you mistakenly think it is the engine not keeping steady - the litmus test is to use a different gear or a downhill grade). Also, bad changes (revving up a bit as it shifts, indicating the clutches are worn and taking a bit of time to 'bite' - or weld themselves together if the friction material has all but gone).
In short, if you have a dipstick, use that to check the level, or whatever other means (eg the awful 'peephole' method, from under the car with the tranny hot, etc etc).
Me, I would probably know the symptoms well enough to just bung in more fluid - say a pint - 'blind' and see if matters improved. If not, you might have to be prepared to remove it of course.
Best regards.
I had a gearbox (auto xmission) rebuilt, and they let the office junior put too little fluid in it.
It drove fine, except at every junction, if I took off fast, there was a sudden loss of drive, then I would brake (to avoid an accident!) and then when I hit the accelerator again, all was as normal.
SOLUTION: I would say the fluid level in the transmission is so low (only takes a pint or two short) that the torque convertor is STARVED either most of the time, or in my case, only when I accelerated sharply, it would all slosh out of the way of the convertor (I surmise).
I had previous experience in another car, of underfilling the auto transmission by only a litre or so, and I tried to inch the car up my drive just clear of the blocks I had jammed behind the wheels, and it did not budge. I pondered and read a bit, put in a bit more fluid and it was perfect.
So, if the quantity of fluid is borderline, you get weird lack of drive, if there is a 'feature' of the route that brings it on eg hill/acceleration/bump/turn etc etc.
On high mileage, when the transmission is wearing out, you get 'slippage' in a certain gear (it's like 'surging' and you mistakenly think it is the engine not keeping steady - the litmus test is to use a different gear or a downhill grade). Also, bad changes (revving up a bit as it shifts, indicating the clutches are worn and taking a bit of time to 'bite' - or weld themselves together if the friction material has all but gone).
In short, if you have a dipstick, use that to check the level, or whatever other means (eg the awful 'peephole' method, from under the car with the tranny hot, etc etc).
Me, I would probably know the symptoms well enough to just bung in more fluid - say a pint - 'blind' and see if matters improved. If not, you might have to be prepared to remove it of course.
Best regards.
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