1999 V70T5M56 AC evap 9171781 and heater core 9144221 replacement (Pics end of thread)

[98T5]

I'm confused. Why would you take the entire dashboard out just to change the heater core?
It's right under the dash buy the driver's side footwell. I changed mine in about an hour.

[precopster]

The OP stated he's also replacing the evaporator. The dash needs to be removed for this right?

[abscate]

Changed thread title to make both AC evap and heater core R/R clearer

[jblackburn]

Heater core is easily replaced w/o removing the dash; the evaporator is NOT.

[98T5]

Heater core is easily replaced w/o removing the dash; the evaporator is NOT.

I see that now.

Also, OP if you could take some GOOD pictures, because I just found out I will be doing this to my 940 before the Winter comes. I'm planning to re-route the hoses in the meantime for summer

[precopster]

The 940 dash removal has a different (more complex) procedure. When it's time it may be best to look it up in the repair database or look for threads with the procedure attached.

[Hoosier Shadetree]

When I changed out these units on my wife's '99 XC, I found that the four (4) through-bolt attaching points on the underside of the dash were prone to cracking and was the source of a squeak. I fixed mine with some JB Weld two-part putty ( the bar in the plastic tube) around the nut mounting area "box" of the attaching point. Due to the plastic being black with black felt, it may be hard to see any of the cracks.

I also had a VERY difficult time getting one of the lines loose at the evaporator (left side). Ended up cutting the evap line well behind the joint so as to not damage the remaining line that is under hood.

Are you also changing the o-rings, orifice tube and receiver/dryer?

Looks like I'll soon be doing this same job to my recently acquired '96 855 Turbo.

Hope this helps,

Hoosier Shadetree

[wheelsup]

I assume the hard to remove disconnect (left side) was the one on the passenger side. I too had a hard time until I realized the line was being held in place by a hex bolt. Remove that and it's out. I had a harder time reconnecting it. Doable but you have to contort your hand. FWIW I think the smaller line is actually the high pressure line.

[Hoosier Shadetree]

I assume the hard to remove disconnect (left side) was the one on the passenger side. I too had a hard time until I realized the line was being held in place by a hex bolt. Remove that and it's out. I had a harder time reconnecting it. Doable but you have to contort your hand. FWIW I think the smaller line is actually the high pressure line.

I think that you are correct on all counts. This next go-round, when I work on the 850, I'll remove the allen bolt that holds that small/high pressure line in place. If I remember correctly, it also goes to the receiver/dryer, aka the accumulator, which will also get changed. That line also gets worked on for the orifice tube.

As far as the dash removal goes, from my experience, it seems like quite a bit of difference to remove the 70 series dash vs. the 850 series. On the '98 to '00 cars, you are not taking out the vents to get to torx screws. You do take out the radio, climate control and the console though among other things.

[abscate]

Console removal wasn't actually on the step by step, but I figured out pretty quickly that it was needed.

I'm waiting for the snap on tool to come today to remove the evaporator lines and do the repair work. I have a lot of coolant to clean off the rugs, so I'm not in a huge rush. I even took the driver seat out so I can have the leather restitched while the car is offline.

When you guys need this tool, PM me and I can send you the tool so that it gets down right.

I also have two broken dash connect points. I'll JB weld the plate back in.

I'm taking lots of pix