CV boots (a coalescence of thoughts)

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 24 Apr 2013, 15:07

Hey everyone,

I wanted to just get some quick thoughts on whether to replace a torn outer CV boot (passenger side). I have read throughout the site and it seems like there are two trains of thought.

1. Don't worry about the boot, just replace the whole assembly with a new axle since they are relatively cheap.

2. You should replace the boots if you just tore them, although the quality of many brands (Rein, Empi, etc) is poor and they may only last a couple of years. The OEM axles are very good so keep them as long as you can.

I also heard from "Eric the car" guy that he would never replace the boot, just drive until truly shot (noise while driving straight) then replace axle.

So, I just tore my boot about a mouth ago when I replaced the struts (Gabriel Ready mounts and so far so good, would recommend). What would you all recommend? I could probably do it myself but would need to purchase a breaker bar and 36mm socket (~$40) and a GKN boot kit ($25). Then it would probably be about 2-3 greasy hours of not so much fun. Or, I could just drive until it starts to click really bad (what 6-12 months maybe more? It is not clicking at all now) and just throw a $120 Empi axle in. I also bought a quick boot but after reading reviews I will probably just return that.

I only drive about 5,000 miles a year but may be driving more in the future. Have right at 140,000 miles on the car now. What are your thoughts on the matter? I have been thinking about it the last couple of weeks and just want to decide one way or the other.

Thanks

jesselks · Post by **jesselks** » 24 Apr 2013, 16:02

I've been considering this same issue. S70 NA FWD 1999 74k.

In case it helps: I got a $12 break bar from HF http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-2 ... 67933.html And found this for $10 https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4936-2-Inc ... 000NPUKJ8/ but didn't get it as my wheel hubs appear to be held on by 14mm axel bolts.

Had the passenger axel replaced (as labor was more than a whole new axel) by a local shop after a VA safety inspection guy tried to make an issue of it. Turns out it's not on the VA inspection criteria, but I was spooked. Since then, I've had brake issues and maybe a bad bearing on that side. This motivated me to take a more active role in car maintenance.

Still tracking that down. Thing is... not 2 years after the replacement, the new axel seems rusty and the outer boot is cracked (but not leaking, it seems). The driver side has been "cracked" for 3-4 years now and while there's some grease scattered on the surrounding area... no noise. More recent responses from mechanics have yielded the suggestion "drive on it till it clicks."

-Jesse

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Apr 2013, 16:36

The aftermarket axles for these cars are, to put it nicely, hit and miss. I wouldn't touch them for an 850 or S70 I wanted to drive for a while.

I'd replace the boot ASAP, using GKN/Lobro, and not have to worry about the axle mechanical parts themselves for at least another 60k. And probably much longer.

Just to give you perspective, I also would have recommended against the Gabriels - I don't believe the mounting hardware will last more than 15k or so (especially the spring seats), and I suspect the ride may not be what I would be after. The point being, I may be right or wrong in one or both cases so .... good luck! Post up what you decide on, and how it goes down the road.

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 24 Apr 2013, 18:35

Yeah, the quality of the axles is why I have been hesitant to readily accept the "just get a new axle" idea.

On the GKN boots, is this the correct part #? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/V ... 35874.html

Should I just go ahead and replace both while I have it out or, is it possible to just replace the outer? I have read a couple of posts that state that it is easier to access from the inner side. Anyone know what a shop would charge on the labor for this project? I am always iffy on these projects until I do them myself; I just don't want to be standing in front of the house with grease up to my elbows, a large hammer in my hands, and a crazy look on my face.

Yeah, I also went back and forth between getting the OEM kit from FCP or going with the ready mounts. I saw some concerns expressed on the forum but I decided to go with the Gabriels anyway. My struts were so worn out that I went through two new tires in ~15,000 miles so I needed to do something. AZ was having a sale and with rebates and everything it ended up being around $140 each and installed them one morning (~2 hours). I don't have that much space to work on stuff and didn't want to deal with compressors etc. They are a bit stiffer but I don't mind that too much (like I said, my struts were shot). Like I said I don't drive too much so I hope they last for a few years. I will update if anything happens with them but, for the cost and the ease of install I would put them in another car. New Orleans is hard on suspension, my control arm bushings are also shot and need to be replaced but that is a fall project.

Post by **burnout8488** » 24 Apr 2013, 21:40

I replaced an outer boot on my passenger axle in under 30 minutes in my basement. It hadn't cracked yet, so I didn't need to clean it out, but it was starting to split.

Used the Empi kit available on FCP. It was super easy. (No need to knock the outer CV joint off, just remove the inner joint which is held on by a simple circlip. The locking ring on the outer joint can be a bit interesting)

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 25 Apr 2013, 08:02

Thanks burnout,

I have read mixed reviews about the quality of Empi, some say they only last for a couple of years. I would rather not do this again (of course who knows how long I will have the car). I don't have a bench vise but could probably could get by with a c clamp. You just clean it out pretty good with some carb cleaner and then pack it with the fresh grease? Can you use worm clamps instead of the ties that come with those kits? I don't have a nipper handy.

Thanks,

Post by **cn90** » 25 Apr 2013, 08:46

The factory CV Joints are very good. If you routinely replace the CV Boot every 60K-70K, the CV joints will easily last 400K miles.
The problem is: once the boot is cracked, dirt/debris get in and the CV Joint will be destroyed very quickly.

As mentioned above, aftermarket axle is a hit/miss issue. Since there is a lot of labor involved, you want to avoid doing this job twice. Changing a boot is so easy, I don't know why people want to play Russian Roulette.

I detailed my experience in this thread, the bottom line: stick to GKN Boots.

DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks.
See the update from 09 Oct 2011:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=29716

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 25 Apr 2013, 09:32

Thanks cn90,

Looks like the GKN kit is only $8.00 at autohausaz.com. Do I need to use the clamps supplied or can I used the smooth worm style. In your post you said that the outer boot from GKN will also fit the inside? If so, I will just order two and replace them both. Have you all needed to replace the seal as well?

Post by **cn90** » 25 Apr 2013, 09:38

Stick to GKN Boot, it is high quality and inexpensive.
Yes, I found out by surprise that the OUTER Boot also fits on the INSIDE.
Yes, stick to Oetiker clamps that come with the kit.

The Seal: it is a gamble. If it is not leaking, you have 2 choices:
1. Leave it alone.
2. Replace the seal. Make sure you take note of exactly how the seal sits.
I believe it sits flush with the housing of the trans. Don't push the seal in too far.
3. Use either Volvo or Corteco brands only.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7939/Axle-Seal-6843112/

PS: To change the boot, it is MUCH EASIER to undo the Inner CV Joint (lift up the tabs).
The Outer Joint is harder to remove because you have to use a tap/hammer etc.

Raycharles90 · Post by **Raycharles90** » 25 Apr 2013, 10:05

Thanks for the quick reply,

I will go ahead and order two of those and pick up a cheap Oetiker crimper. I will also get a seal as I can always return it (I was waiting for a FCP order to add up to $25).

Probably will not be here in time for this weekend but hopefully can tackle this next weekend. What does it take more time getting the axle out of the car and back in than cleaning it up?

Cheers,