Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

[JohannReinhard]

Hi all,

I'm planning on doing a more detailed write up on this once I've actually performed the work (pictures, possibly video depending on how ambitious I'm feeling), but I wanted to ask a few questions first.

1) Do I have to drain the engine's oil to replace this gasket?
2) Is the use of high-temperature RTV sealant on the gasket recommended? If so, where? On both sides of the gasket, or just one?
3) When tightening the bolts, how much force to use? I've heard these bolts require only hand-tightening plus 1/3 of a turn, but I don't want to create more problems down the line by undertightening these bolts.
4) Is there a preferred pattern to installing or tightening the bolts? Diagonally beginning in the corners, or in the middle and going around the head clockwise?
5) Is it easier to remove the spark plug wires, or just rotate the valve cover down and to one side?

It appears relatively straightforward: remove the bolts, scrape off the old gasket, lay down the new one, replace cover, and tighten the bolts. But it's almost never that easy, I'm willing to bet. The devil is always in the details. I want to get this right the first time, and create a guide to help others. Everything has to start somewhere, right?

[98T5]

Hi all,

I'm planning on doing a more detailed write up on this once I've actually performed the work (pictures, possibly video depending on how ambitious I'm feeling), but I wanted to ask a few questions first.

1) Do I have to drain the engine's oil to replace this gasket?
2) Is the use of high-temperature RTV sealant on the gasket recommended? If so, where? On both sides of the gasket, or just one?
3) When tightening the bolts, how much force to use? I've heard these bolts require only hand-tightening plus 1/3 of a turn, but I don't want to create more problems down the line by undertightening these bolts.
4) Is there a preferred pattern to installing or tightening the bolts? Diagonally beginning in the corners, or in the middle and going around the head clockwise?
5) Is it easier to remove the spark plug wires, or just rotate the valve cover down and to one side?

It appears relatively straightforward: remove the bolts, scrape off the old gasket, lay down the new one, replace cover, and tighten the bolts. But it's almost never that easy, I'm willing to bet. The devil is always in the details. I want to get this right the first time, and create a guide to help others. Everything has to start somewhere, right?

1. No
2. Thin layer on the cover edge where the gasket sits. no need for more on the side touching the engine or it could leak after it settles and dries.
3. Tighten until you feel good resistence and then maybe a half turn more. nice and snug. not too much or they'll strip and then the gasket will leak.
4. not really because the holes are not that deep. so whatever pattern floats your boat. you'll know when each bolt is tight enough. just make sure you tighten em all..lol
5. if they are too much in the way, just label em with masking tape and unplug em. Mine sit high and out of the way because I used zipties to keep them away from the engine heat. you may want to do this after your gasket repair. save the wires.

Very easy job, make sure you have a 6pack on ice to help you through it.

[JohannReinhard]

98T5, thanks for the pointers! I'll take care of this gasket this weekend, and have the write up done next week.

[98T5]

98T5, thanks for the pointers! I'll take care of this gasket this weekend, and have the write up done next week.

Right On!

[JohannReinhard]

All right, one last question before I get around to actually doing this. I replaced my flame trap which stopped the leak, but the gasket still needs to be replaced.

My question is this: will a drop-forged steel gasket scraper damage my head if I use it to remove the old gasket? The B230F has an aluminum head, and I don't want to leave gouges or scratches that will require a new head to be put on six months or a year down the line. I prefer to do it right the first time, and be as careful as possible. Should I use a wood scraper? Plastic? Aluminum?

As an added curiosity, I removed the oil fill cap to inspect the gasket, and saw a bit of what I can only figure to be smoke inside. Is that normal?

[oldschoolvolvo]

It appears relatively straightforward: remove the bolts, scrape off the old gasket, lay down the new one, replace cover, and tighten the bolts. But it's almost never that easy, I'm willing to bet.

yes, it is that easy.

[oldschoolvolvo]

My question is this: will a drop-forged steel gasket scraper damage my head if I use it to remove the old gasket? The B230F has an aluminum head, and I don't want to leave gouges or scratches that will require a new head to be put on six months or a year down the line. I prefer to do it right the first time, and be as careful as possible. Should I use a wood scraper? Plastic? Aluminum?

As an added curiosity, I removed the oil fill cap to inspect the gasket, and saw a bit of what I can only figure to be smoke inside. Is that normal?

-be careful with the scraper and you'll be fine. as long as you're not digging into the aluminum you have nothing to worry about, you would have to seriously damage the mating surface (like knock a piece out with a hammer) to warrant a new head.
-it is normal for there to be vapors when you remove the oil cap on a hot engine.

[JohannReinhard]

All finished with the replacement. Not an overly difficult task, either. I've got the write up on my blog (see signature), and once I upload the images to Imageshack I'll post it here. Hopefully it'll go into the database, if not, I hope some other enterprising individual finds it useful.

Thanks to 98T5 and oldschoolvolvo for their invaluable pointers and assistance!

[98T5]

Right ON! you're an official DIYer now . next task?

[oldschoolvolvo]

well done, very thorough writeup.